Model 12 questions

SmithNut

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Over the years I've owned lots Smiths (kind of an understatement :)), but have never owned a Model 12, I have a line on a very nice one that appears to be NIB, with papers. This is a 2" version with original grips.

Now, after reading some more in the SCS&W about this model, there are mentions of cracked frames (I seem to remember that from over the years).

My question is this, where do they crack?

My initial look at the gun had me looking at the forcing cone to make sure it was never fired with hot ammo (or at least hot enough to do the damage).

Any insights into this gun/model would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

.............SmithNut
 
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If the frames crack, it usually happens under the barrel. I saw a model 12 with a cracked frame last year. It was otherwise as new in the box.

My PC 629-10 cracked while I was shooting it. A number of years later, a felllow member of Michigan Antiques Arms Collectors had a 629-10 on his table and I took a good look at it. That frame was cracked too. I pointed it out and explained that S&W replaced mine with another PC model under the lifetime service policy. They ended up sending him another gun too. This only applies to guns made after Feb 1989.

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While I do not own a Model 12, I do own its predecessor the Airweight Military and Police 38

airweight%20m-p%2038%20rs.jpg


ALL alloy frame Smith & Wesson revolvers manufactured over the last 70+ years have been more prone to cracking than their steel counterparts. The crack appears on the underside of the frame where the barrel is threaded through. It is on the flat that is cut so that the yoke can close

p19c45it6l19b91l7t1n8knbge2u6.jpg.webp

image courtesy of Gun Tests​

This crack is not due to "Hot" ammunition, but usually due to over torquing of the barrel

If the crack does not exist when you buy the firearm it is a fairly good bet that it will not develop one, but it is possible for the firearm to develop one since when you fire the gun the rifling actually causes the barrel to twist in the direction of tightening. But this is kind of a rare occurrence and again not dependent on how "Hot" the ammunition is

Many owners never notice the crack on their firearm should it occur after purchase. If your frame ever cracks in this location this is not a catastrophic failure. The firearm will continue to fire for quite some time with a cracked frame
 
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I see it on the flat in the frame below the barrel. It's usually easy to see. I see it on M-37's as well. I have a friend who WILL NOT buy an Airweight S&W.
 
I’ve owned a few - none were cracked. I agree with colt saa above that they are probably cracked from the get go.

I’ve seen one cracked Model 12, and that was a heavily used one at Sportsman’s Warehouse a couple of years ago when they were selling off all those rusty Puerto Rican police guns. It was in the usual spot, right under the barrel on the frame flat. It was bad - you could probably stick the edge of a playing card in it. I think rust was holding the barrel on.

I showed it to the counter guy who just put it back on the shelf and said: Somebody’ll buy it. It was gone later so somebody probably did.

A great thread on shooting +P in these wonderful guns:

+P Through a Model 12: THE TEST...is done!!!!
 
Gents,

Good information and pics, appreciate the replies. I'm going to give it a good inspection before proceeding, when I inspected it initially two weeks ago I didn't spot anything obvious.

Thanks!!!
 
I’ve owned a few - none were cracked. I agree with colt saa above that they are probably cracked from the get go.

I’ve seen one cracked Model 12, and that was a heavily used one at Sportsman’s Warehouse a couple of years ago when they were selling off all those rusty Puerto Rican police guns. It was in the usual spot, right under the barrel on the frame flat. It was bad - you could probably stick the edge of a playing card in it. I think rust was holding the barrel on.

I showed it to the counter guy who just put it back on the shelf and said: Somebody’ll buy it. It was gone later so somebody probably did.

A great thread on shooting +P in these wonderful guns:

+P Through a Model 12: THE TEST...is done!!!!

Thanks for the link to Osprey's torture test, it's been years since I've seen it... :D
 
I picked-up my 12-2 snub in the consignment case of a "tactical" focused LGS. They had it priced right since most their clientele would probably think it had leprosy. With some holster wear and mild evidence of shooting, it slipped right into being a popular carry gun for myself. I definitely think most Model 12 cracks either happen NIB/just a few rounds, or after tons of abuse.
 
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I have previously posted about my beautiful condition 12-2RB that I actually owned twice. I initially purchased it, never carried or shot it and sold it to a friend who owned a pawn shop. It never sold there and he kept asking me to buy it back. I did and the same thing happened. I never carried it or shot it due to the cracked frame issues and the anodized finish wearing if carried much. I ended up selling it. I have had chances to purchase very nice model 37's as well but have not done so for the same reasons. I loved the model 12 RB and wish I still had it.
 
When dealing with discontinued and unserviceable guns, romance exceeds practicality.

Sadly, the Model 12 is for lookin', and not shootin'. Nothing wrong with that either.
 
Well........
I picked it up at the dealers this morning, no cracks anywhere.

It's a M12-2, so it has the narrow frame. The grips are the original RB Diamond Magnas.

If it's been fired (outside the factory) I'd be surprised, there is some very minor powder burns between the forcing cone and the frame, possibly from the factory test fire from way back then. I believe the early guns had every other chamber test fired/shot.

Box is numbered to the gun, as are the grips.

The serial number C8194xx, putting this in the very early 1966 range.

Have purchased quite a few M&P's over the years but this is the first Airweight K frame I've ever had in my collection.

Did I mention no cracks, possibly unfired (outside of the factory)???

It's going to stay that way.

Pics to follow if I can get room on my bench for my blue background.

Enjoy and thanks for the information earlier..... :)
 
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As was mentioned above, all aluminum framed S&W models have been known to crack, usually at the bottom of the lunette, where the barrel screws is. Steel framed guns have been reported to crack there too, but less frequently.

No one really knows what causes the frame cracks, but I can tell you it is not either over-torquing the barrel or +P .38 Special ammunition. First, the barrels are not retained by torque, they are glued in with Loc-Tite sleeve mount, the high strength green formula! I have had Model 12 barrels out, that is how I know this! They also will not be damaged by even .38-44 level .38 Special loads! I know this because at least one 12-2 that I owned was fired several hundred rounds with my hand-loads with 125 gr. JHP bullets that were at least in the .38-44 pressure range!. This was back in the 1970s, long before the Internet and keyboard rangers that "Know everything":mad::mad::mad:. I have no idea what really causes the cracking, and everyone who thinks they do are simply guessing!:rolleyes::rolleyes: An error is still an error no matter how many times it is repeated!
 
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