My new (to me) 13-4 has white paint or finger polish on the front ramp sight. I'm contemplating removing it (although white does make it easier on my old eyes to get a good sight picture) to restore it to it's original condition. What type of remover would be best without damaging the bluing? Any suggestions are appreciated. c good
Model 13-4, front sight paint/fingernail polish removal?
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Alk8944
US Veteran
Fingernail polish remover (surprise), Acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). And, no, none of these will harm the bluing! Amazing how often that is asked.
I like to live dangerously so I would use acetone.. Be sure to read the warnings on the label.
Apply a small amount of the acetone (or Gun Scrubber perhaps) with a q-tip, and brush with a stiff toothbrush. Repeat till the offending paint is gone. Be sure to re-hydrate the area with a good quality lubricant when you are finished removing the paint.... the degreasing agent will leave the affected metal surfaces vulnerable to oxidation.
Apply a small amount of the acetone (or Gun Scrubber perhaps) with a q-tip, and brush with a stiff toothbrush. Repeat till the offending paint is gone. Be sure to re-hydrate the area with a good quality lubricant when you are finished removing the paint.... the degreasing agent will leave the affected metal surfaces vulnerable to oxidation.
kthom
Member
Mr. Good,
I use some laquer thinner applied with a tiny artist's brush. I use the same brushes to apply enamel Testor's model paint to front sights, especially the stainless steel front ramped sights on SS revolvers. These are really hard for me to see. I apply a coat of white and let it cure well, then the florescent green which seems to be easiest for me to see well. I also use this paint on blued guns. Eventually, especially with holster use, the paint needs refreshing. I normally clean off all the old paint and then apply fresh when I do this. The tiny natural bristle brush allows me to apply the laquer thinner in small amounts only to the paint without allowing much of it to run down onto the metal of the gun. I will apply the thinner, let it sit for a very few minutes, apply it again, by which time I can usually see some softening of the paint. I then wipe it thoroughly with a paper towel or napkin which will remove some of the paint. I reapply the thinner again a couple times, wipe again, more thinner, then more wiping. Each time I get off more paint. Usually after about three times doing this, about all the paint that remains will be in the serrations in the ramped part of the front sight. I tickle that with a bit more thinner and usually it will "wash" out of the serrations with only the movement of the brush. If you are concerned about using either, remove the grips and test a small area underneath them to satisfy yourself if damage will be done.
I don't allow the thinner to remain on the metal for any long period of time. The thinner also evaporates quickly after application. After the new paint is applied, or in your case if you intend to leave it completely clean, take a Q-tip with a small amount of your favorite gun oil and wipe down the sight and ramp and the barrel (if any thinner gets on it), then wipe off the excess oil with a rag, and you should be good to go. I have never noticed any damage to blued guns using this method, and no discoloration to the SS metal either. The laquer thinner works quickly and allows removal with just the paper towel or rough rag so there is no chance of scratching the metal with anything. I've not tried it, but fingernail polish remover might do the same thing, especially if it's fingernail polish on the sight. I'd just say to be careful not to get either the laquer thinner or the polish remover on the sight and barrel more than is absolutely necessary. The tiny paint brush allows you to do this well. Lay the gun on it's side with a rag underneath it so that if any of the thinner happens to run down or drip, it will mostly just fall off the gun to the rag.
I use some laquer thinner applied with a tiny artist's brush. I use the same brushes to apply enamel Testor's model paint to front sights, especially the stainless steel front ramped sights on SS revolvers. These are really hard for me to see. I apply a coat of white and let it cure well, then the florescent green which seems to be easiest for me to see well. I also use this paint on blued guns. Eventually, especially with holster use, the paint needs refreshing. I normally clean off all the old paint and then apply fresh when I do this. The tiny natural bristle brush allows me to apply the laquer thinner in small amounts only to the paint without allowing much of it to run down onto the metal of the gun. I will apply the thinner, let it sit for a very few minutes, apply it again, by which time I can usually see some softening of the paint. I then wipe it thoroughly with a paper towel or napkin which will remove some of the paint. I reapply the thinner again a couple times, wipe again, more thinner, then more wiping. Each time I get off more paint. Usually after about three times doing this, about all the paint that remains will be in the serrations in the ramped part of the front sight. I tickle that with a bit more thinner and usually it will "wash" out of the serrations with only the movement of the brush. If you are concerned about using either, remove the grips and test a small area underneath them to satisfy yourself if damage will be done.
I don't allow the thinner to remain on the metal for any long period of time. The thinner also evaporates quickly after application. After the new paint is applied, or in your case if you intend to leave it completely clean, take a Q-tip with a small amount of your favorite gun oil and wipe down the sight and ramp and the barrel (if any thinner gets on it), then wipe off the excess oil with a rag, and you should be good to go. I have never noticed any damage to blued guns using this method, and no discoloration to the SS metal either. The laquer thinner works quickly and allows removal with just the paper towel or rough rag so there is no chance of scratching the metal with anything. I've not tried it, but fingernail polish remover might do the same thing, especially if it's fingernail polish on the sight. I'd just say to be careful not to get either the laquer thinner or the polish remover on the sight and barrel more than is absolutely necessary. The tiny paint brush allows you to do this well. Lay the gun on it's side with a rag underneath it so that if any of the thinner happens to run down or drip, it will mostly just fall off the gun to the rag.
It sounds funny, but when I go to repaint mine, I use a toothpick to remove all the paint from the serrations, and a toothbrush to finish it off...no chemicals at all.
I find the orange at walmart works best for me. Although I always get funny looks when I go to the checkout lane with fingernail polish.
I find the orange at walmart works best for me. Although I always get funny looks when I go to the checkout lane with fingernail polish.
robert1804
Member
I use acetone on an old terry cloth rag. Use it outside since a surprisingly small amount leaves a funky meth lab smell for hours.
bananaman
Member
I like bright lime green model paint, and a 2 step pinkish red nail polish. It is your gun, so do whatever you wish. I am 62, and it helps me out. The only thing better to me is fiber optic. Bob
ACORN
Member
Brake clean
My wife has a nail salon.And she recommends a non acetone nail cleaner.If that doesn't work use acetone.She is just not sure what acetone will do to finish.I have used a bright pink and orange color on the front sight of several of my handguns.And it works
Well.
Well.
kthom
Member
I like the Testors brand enamel model paint, available at Hobby Stores or perhaps WalMart? I prefer the florescent green but you can get orange, red, or yellow as well, or pink if it floats your boat. I like to put down a coating of white and let it dry, then follow with the color. You can also buy tiny artist bristle brushes that make it easy to apply the paint carefully. I use laquer thinner to remove the paint if desired. Take a bit of time soaking and wiping with a paper towel, etc, but the paint will come off with no problems. Make sure you completely degrease the metal where the paint is to be applied prior to painting, and lubricate the metal that has been degreased prior to painting or after removing the paint.
I like this idea also! Thanks Kthom.
nipperdog
Member
I have done many used guns with Acetone like the others have said. No harm to the Bluing but the Acetone will remove all traces of Oil, so re oil after removing the paint.
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