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I know the subject of a colored front sight comes up often and I also comment on it a few times a year. The gun below is one of my M15's and this particular front sight was painted about 16 years ago. Although it looks freshly painted, I assure you it is not.
The paint I use is Testor's #1127 GL which stands for gloss. Be careful as Testor's paint is often sold in both gloss and mat finish within the same color. For sights you want gloss. BTW, this color is called orange but is really an orangish/red when mixed, applied and dry. Of course you do not need to use this color, they make a plethora of colors to choose from. One bottle will last a decade or longer! If it gets too thick, just add a drop of thinner like mineral spirits. A bottle of Testor's costs about $3 bucks or less.
Thoroughly clean the oil and solvents off with Alcohol before proceeding! I apply 3-4 thin coats of paint allowing 24 hours between coats for proper drying. I use a fine pointed wooden toothpick to apply the pain after thoroughly mixing it. I only do the area that would normally have the factory installed insert and I like the paint to be slightly proud of the serrations. I do not like the serrations showing and this sort of duplicates a "factory look" if you will. Trimming the sides of the front blade can easily be done with a new single edge razor after everything is dry.
The Testor's paint stands up quite well to solvents such as Hoppes 9, every oil I have every used and will not come off. In fact, when you clean the gun is also removes all the gun smoke and carbon from the paint and makes it shinny once again. The M15 pictured here was what I shot yesterday (150 rounds) and the gun was filthy after my Range session. I used Hoppes solvent, then some G96 after that. Again, this paint job was done 16 years ago!
If for any reason you want to remove the Testor's paint to restore the factory black front ramp, just use paint thinner, lighter fluid, mineral spirits, etc in conjunction with a stiff toothbrush - comes off easily and any stubborn residue caught in the serrations can be removed with a new single edged razor blade or Exacto knife.
I have not installed a dovetailed front insert in 35 years as I do not like to permanently cut the front sight. I also have had many of the factory inserts fall out when they shrink and installing new goop to repair is a lot more of a p.i.t.a. and more of an expense to do. So anyway, this is how I do it and since I had this revolver out yesterday I figured I should take a few oic's and post. I hope this helps a few members here.
Regards,
Chief38
The paint I use is Testor's #1127 GL which stands for gloss. Be careful as Testor's paint is often sold in both gloss and mat finish within the same color. For sights you want gloss. BTW, this color is called orange but is really an orangish/red when mixed, applied and dry. Of course you do not need to use this color, they make a plethora of colors to choose from. One bottle will last a decade or longer! If it gets too thick, just add a drop of thinner like mineral spirits. A bottle of Testor's costs about $3 bucks or less.
Thoroughly clean the oil and solvents off with Alcohol before proceeding! I apply 3-4 thin coats of paint allowing 24 hours between coats for proper drying. I use a fine pointed wooden toothpick to apply the pain after thoroughly mixing it. I only do the area that would normally have the factory installed insert and I like the paint to be slightly proud of the serrations. I do not like the serrations showing and this sort of duplicates a "factory look" if you will. Trimming the sides of the front blade can easily be done with a new single edge razor after everything is dry.
The Testor's paint stands up quite well to solvents such as Hoppes 9, every oil I have every used and will not come off. In fact, when you clean the gun is also removes all the gun smoke and carbon from the paint and makes it shinny once again. The M15 pictured here was what I shot yesterday (150 rounds) and the gun was filthy after my Range session. I used Hoppes solvent, then some G96 after that. Again, this paint job was done 16 years ago!
If for any reason you want to remove the Testor's paint to restore the factory black front ramp, just use paint thinner, lighter fluid, mineral spirits, etc in conjunction with a stiff toothbrush - comes off easily and any stubborn residue caught in the serrations can be removed with a new single edged razor blade or Exacto knife.
I have not installed a dovetailed front insert in 35 years as I do not like to permanently cut the front sight. I also have had many of the factory inserts fall out when they shrink and installing new goop to repair is a lot more of a p.i.t.a. and more of an expense to do. So anyway, this is how I do it and since I had this revolver out yesterday I figured I should take a few oic's and post. I hope this helps a few members here.
Regards,
Chief38
