Model 13 changing hammer

[camsdaddy]

I have a 3" model 13-4. I am wanting to bob the hammer because when I carry AIWB it digs into my stomach. I didnt want to grind on the original hammer because I wanted to be able to return the gun to stock. I purchased another hammer for a k frame. I purchased a SS so that I wouldnt have to reblue. When I installed it I found that the firing pin will bind in the hole. I have since found that there are different hammers for different revolvers even though they are k frame. I wonder can I change the hammer tip with one from a newer hammer? If not can the case hardened hammer be bobbed and left or will it need some sort of treatment to protect the raw area.

 

[armorer951]

Hammers are rarely a "drop in" part, so it will have to be fitted by a qualified gunsmith or S&W armorer. It may be something as simple as changing the hammer nose. Sometimes the sear and/or the hammer seat on the rebound have to be modified to accommodate the new hammer. Switching hammers and other internals can adversely affect the timing (and safety) of the gun also, so changes should be done by someone who is qualified and experienced.
Both the case hardened hammer and the SS hammer will be more susceptible to oxidation after you modify them. No real solution other than regular maintenance and perhaps a coating of some kind to protect the area.

 

[davidrepeterson]

in my experience with 100+ S&W revolvers 90% of the time internals were pretty much a drop in fit with typical exceptional action achieved with "Mikulek level" trigger work.

Bobbing a case hardened hammer can be made servicable with cold bluing the exposed white metal. per Mr. Potterfield.

Gunsmithing - How to Bob the Hammer on a S&W Revolver - YouTube

 

[camsdaddy]

Well I always thought the internal parts were drop in interchangeable myself. I have since installed the stainless hammer in my 4" 13-1. I am undecided if I will order another hammer for my 13-4 or if I will wait on it to tear a few undershirts before I do. Then again I never know when the notion will strike and the original hammer may be bobbed and cold blued

 

[chief38]

Sometimes the're drop in and sometimes they "AIN'T"!

Just be prepared to fit the parts if necessary. IMHO you should understand HOW TO DO SO even if you luck out and the part does fit. Some minor fitting can sometimes improve performance on a part that "seems" to fit. Most of the time the fitting is quite simple if you understand how to do so. I have seen a few revolvers that friends have brought over that have been prematurely worn and have had unnecessary wear becasue of ill-fit parts. BEST to know what you are doing BEFORE you do it. Just my .02 cents.........

Chief38

 

[davidrepeterson]

yup...the 10% of parts that don't fit...I find are the fun stuff to work on..usually. if you're a do it yourselfer it is surely a good measure to first read a professionally written how-to book. I definitely would not rely soley on the advice found on the internet. I bought Kuhnhausen's book back in the late 80's. Money well spent. The AGI S&W Trigger job and Mikulek' S&W tigger job videos are great. You can find any of them on eBay for aound $20.

 

[dant]

well obviuosly from his comments his hammer just did NOT "drop in", and all TOO often this will be the case, the double action 'fly' has got to be fitted and clear the trigger hook ( sear end) or the gun will not function,or clear from single and double action...............I would just 'bob" the existing hammer, no need to remove it all just shorten it about half of the spur and will make a BIG difference, as well as still leave enough on so you can cock it back single action...this works for MOST people we have found over the years...and yes , some just have to have it all ground off (gone) and smooth...don't hurt to "try"