Smith & wesson now states that model 10 stamped as such are strong enough to be reamed to accept the 357. An idle thought - can a model 15 be converted safety to 357?
model 15 conversion
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austintexas
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M15 to M19
From what I read, Smith made the M-19 Frame a touch larger and stronger when they wanted to upgrade the M-15 to 357 magnum.
SWCA 892
From what I read, Smith made the M-19 Frame a touch larger and stronger when they wanted to upgrade the M-15 to 357 magnum.
SWCA 892
Engine49guy
Member
Why would you want to?
Easier safer to just buy a .357.
Easier safer to just buy a .357.
OP
I don;t just a thought it is a adjustable sighy gon and i wondered if it would be strong enough . Is the frame different than a model 10 i guess was my thought
StrawHat
Member
I have read that all the k frames were made a touch larger and stronger in the crane area when the model 19 was developed and model marking started. Seems logical because S&W says all model marked steel K frames are ok for +P ammo. If a model 10 could be safely rechambered for .357 them so could a model 15. Question is why would you want to because the 19 is not exactly known for longevity when fed a steady diet of factory level .357s. Gun writer Brian Pearce says that k frame .357s were meant to be LEO guns that are best limited to .38 spl +P load level for steady use and loaded with .357s for duty.
Isn't this a Model 13 or 65 ?
AJR337
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I know it's not what's being asked but purely presenting an option...with the heavier .38 special loads that are available from companies like Buffalo Bore and Underwood (which approach .357 levels and are safe to use in most .38 revolvers) you could simply use those if/when a more powerful load is needed.
Regardless of strength, the 38 Special cylinder is shorter than that of the 357 Magnum, so reaming a 38 Special cylinder to accept 357 Magnum ammo could result in some bullets protruding beyond the face of the cylinder.
Why?
Why would anyone spend good money to ruin a collectible Model 15 to make it a .357? You can buy .357's all day long for shooters.
Ths is akin to Hunter's Lodge taking S&W Victory models in .38 S&W and reaming them out to .38 Special.
A lot of work and money to essentially ruin the gun.
Why would anyone spend good money to ruin a collectible Model 15 to make it a .357? You can buy .357's all day long for shooters.
Ths is akin to Hunter's Lodge taking S&W Victory models in .38 S&W and reaming them out to .38 Special.
A lot of work and money to essentially ruin the gun.
Not an expert, but the K-frame differences I've seen appear to be more related to the type of barrel installed than the caliber. Frames that had a heavy barrel with a shrouded ejector rod (Model 19 and 66) have more "meat" in the yoke area than frames that had a tapered barrel without the shrouded ejector rod (Model 15 and 67). The Model 14 had a heavy barrel without the shroud, so the yoke area is the Model 15 style and the frame rib ahead of the barrel pin is cut square like a Model 19.
The first picture below has an original Model 13 on the left and a Model 10-3 with a Model 13 barrel installed on the right. Edit - I just noticed that I labelled the picture incorrectly - the Model 13 is a -8, not a -2) The second picture has an original Model 19 on the bottom and a Model 14 with a Model 19 barrel partially installed on the top. The arrows in the second picture indicate the differences in the yoke area.
If I wanted to convert a Model 15 to a light-duty .357, I would remove the barrel, cut back the barrel stub to the appropriate .357 length, re-cut the forcing cone, re-install the barrel, and then fit a non-recessed .357 cylinder from a Model 13 or 19.
The first picture below has an original Model 13 on the left and a Model 10-3 with a Model 13 barrel installed on the right. Edit - I just noticed that I labelled the picture incorrectly - the Model 13 is a -8, not a -2) The second picture has an original Model 19 on the bottom and a Model 14 with a Model 19 barrel partially installed on the top. The arrows in the second picture indicate the differences in the yoke area.
If I wanted to convert a Model 15 to a light-duty .357, I would remove the barrel, cut back the barrel stub to the appropriate .357 length, re-cut the forcing cone, re-install the barrel, and then fit a non-recessed .357 cylinder from a Model 13 or 19.
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Engine49guy
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The K magnum frames back in the day were longer in the yoke cut area compared to non Magnum frames so that the frame mated to the barrel with an ejector rod shroud and didnt overhang the frame there.
Years later the 617/17-6/14-5 etc used a full underlug barrel so were longer in the yoke cut but those woulnt get any extra Magnum heat treating if that was in fact a thing they did.
The Model 13/65 didnt have an ejector rod shroud so wasn't longer in the yoke cut ( Ladysmith 65 excluded).
Iirc there was extra heat treating to the Magnum revolvers but can't say for certain.
Imo just because you can do something doesn't mean you should, many 38/44 Od and Hd's were reamed to accept .357 but those were the bigger N frames, in hindsight reaming those guns devalued them.
If you have an old beat up model 15 snub and a model 19 barrel and cylinder the frame window and barrel threads are the same so it would go together and go bang.
Might be fine for years or might fail,
Worse case scenario if it did have a massive failure the medical bills would probably cost more than a clean used .357, well probably 10 of them.
I wouldn't do it but am in the camp of best to error on the side of safety.
Btw the 4" Model 15through 15-4 have the narrow rib barrel with the top strap notched to mate cosmetically so a wide rib model 19 barrel wouldn't look right.
The 15 snub has a wide rib barrel so doesn't have that cut but it also doesn't step down at the front so the barrel frame meeting point is more abrupt.
Years later the 617/17-6/14-5 etc used a full underlug barrel so were longer in the yoke cut but those woulnt get any extra Magnum heat treating if that was in fact a thing they did.
The Model 13/65 didnt have an ejector rod shroud so wasn't longer in the yoke cut ( Ladysmith 65 excluded).
Iirc there was extra heat treating to the Magnum revolvers but can't say for certain.
Imo just because you can do something doesn't mean you should, many 38/44 Od and Hd's were reamed to accept .357 but those were the bigger N frames, in hindsight reaming those guns devalued them.
If you have an old beat up model 15 snub and a model 19 barrel and cylinder the frame window and barrel threads are the same so it would go together and go bang.
Might be fine for years or might fail,
Worse case scenario if it did have a massive failure the medical bills would probably cost more than a clean used .357, well probably 10 of them.
I wouldn't do it but am in the camp of best to error on the side of safety.
Btw the 4" Model 15through 15-4 have the narrow rib barrel with the top strap notched to mate cosmetically so a wide rib model 19 barrel wouldn't look right.
The 15 snub has a wide rib barrel so doesn't have that cut but it also doesn't step down at the front so the barrel frame meeting point is more abrupt.
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