Simple-Even then how does one determine value on something that never makes it to market. No public sales to base anything off of.
Is there a screw in front of the trigger guard, like this-
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Even then how does one determine value on something that never makes it to market. No public sales to base anything off of. What similar firearms have traded publicly that I can base a number off of.
Im having the same issue placing value on a 1882 $50 National Bank Note that has never before been auctioned publicly.
This gun is so far out of my league I can't even help you.
If lightning struck and I had one of these, I would price a new pickup and list it here for that. If it sold for that, I'd kick myself. If it didn't I'd drop it a grand a week until it did.
Its a pretty good situation to be in.
Yeap, there is a screw at that location.
Having both stainless and nickel guns, I'm convinced this is nickel plated, not stainless. Stainless guns also usually have hard-chromed hammer and trigger, this one has color case hardened hammer and trigger, which nickel plated guns have. I don't know about the "SS" stamping inside the yoke cut. Look at the breech side of the cylinder, is there a "N" anywhere between the charge holes, and is the extractor star blue or silvery? Blued would also indicate a nickel plated gun.
The gun is in the serial number range of the experimental stainless steel 15's..... which were the first stainless S&W's produced, in 1960-1961. They were bright polished and on first glance appear to be nickel-plated. You definitely need a factory letter.
Call me if you have any further questions (205-531-7002).
David
The easiest way to determine stainless from nickel is using a magnet...I keep a small pocket magnet with me whenever I have a pocket...The magnet will stick firmly to carbon steel whether it's nickeled, blued or coated...The magnet will have a very weak attraction to stainless steel because of the lessened ferrous content in the alloy......Ben