Model 15 Stainless

Pull the stock from the left side of the revolver, look near the bottom of the grip frame. A letter "N" would indicate nickel plating. The rear of the cylinder does look like stainless.
 
Is there a screw in front of the trigger guard, like this-


attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9282.JPG
    IMG_9282.JPG
    67.9 KB · Views: 1,442
Even then how does one determine value on something that never makes it to market. No public sales to base anything off of. What similar firearms have traded publicly that I can base a number off of.
Im having the same issue placing value on a 1882 $50 National Bank Note that has never before been auctioned publicly.

This gun is so far out of my league I can't even help you.

If lightning struck and I had one of these, I would price a new pickup and list it here for that. If it sold for that, I'd kick myself. If it didn't I'd drop it a grand a week until it did.

Its a pretty good situation to be in.
 
This gun is so far out of my league I can't even help you.

If lightning struck and I had one of these, I would price a new pickup and list it here for that. If it sold for that, I'd kick myself. If it didn't I'd drop it a grand a week until it did.

Its a pretty good situation to be in.




Yeah, lots of pre auction advertisement and let her rip! But it has to be authenticated with a letter I would think.


If it were me, I would be in a homeless shelter selling pencils all day and eating rats at night with that in a safety deposit box before I might consider selling it! :D
 
The experimental stainless M15's had case-hardened hammers & triggers, as well as the bright-polish finish I mentioned earlier. They were built five years before the M60 and, same as with the earliest M60's, especially using the bright-polish finish, S&W didn't have a hard-fast plan on exactly what and how they would do with some of the parts when planning future mass production.

My money is definitely on the gun in question being original...
DC


Having both stainless and nickel guns, I'm convinced this is nickel plated, not stainless. Stainless guns also usually have hard-chromed hammer and trigger, this one has color case hardened hammer and trigger, which nickel plated guns have. I don't know about the "SS" stamping inside the yoke cut. Look at the breech side of the cylinder, is there a "N" anywhere between the charge holes, and is the extractor star blue or silvery? Blued would also indicate a nickel plated gun.
 
The gun is in the serial number range of the experimental stainless steel 15's..... which were the first stainless S&W's produced, in 1960-1961. They were bright polished and on first glance appear to be nickel-plated. You definitely need a factory letter.

Call me if you have any further questions (205-531-7002).
David


Interesting, my first impression of the pic was that it was nickel, but not a good quality nickel, upon more inspection, there appears to be "grain" in the finish, so it's entirely possible that this is stainless.......

Never heard of the 20 that is being discussed, maybe I should study M15's.... ?? No, belay that, I prefer M14's....

Hopefully this turns out to be one of the 20, that would truly be a find... And as noted, might get the current owner a new truck.. :) :D

As is noted many times throughout the S&W forum, "never say never".. !!
 
SN

Think it is ok to post full SN here. I have done it frequently and have seen it done a lot.
The 6 guns known to have been shipped have SN in the 20s.
Since yours is also in the 20s would be interesting to know if yours is one of the 6 known to be shipped or one of the other 4 possibilities.
 
The easiest way to determine stainless from nickel is using a magnet...I keep a small pocket magnet with me whenever I have a pocket...The magnet will stick firmly to carbon steel whether it's nickeled, blued or coated...The magnet will have a very weak attraction to stainless steel because of the lessened ferrous content in the alloy...;)...Ben
 
Congratulations to you if it turns out to be one of the stainless model 15s.

This is the message about the current moratorium on letter of authenticity requests:

Important...Moratorium on Requests for Factory Letters

But January 24 is only a few days away. Good luck!

PS We have a lot of discussion here about the definition of a "scarce" or "rare" gun. A stainless model 15 definitely is rare!
 
Last edited:
The easiest way to determine stainless from nickel is using a magnet...I keep a small pocket magnet with me whenever I have a pocket...The magnet will stick firmly to carbon steel whether it's nickeled, blued or coated...The magnet will have a very weak attraction to stainless steel because of the lessened ferrous content in the alloy...;)...Ben

Sorry, but a magnet will stick to a stainless gun with just about as much force as a regular one. 400 series stainless steel is a kind of iron, carbon chromium alloy. This stainless steel has a martensitic structure and an iron element, so it has normal magnetic properties. Take a magnet and stick it to a 60 or 600 series gun. THUNK

The more common 300 series stainless id not magnetic of weak attraction
 
Last edited:
Oh my!!
"Welcome to the forum from the Wiregrass!" is the usual greeting and he will be around shortly to greet you.
Congratulations on your revolver. A bit of advice....you have been given a phone number in this thread and I suggest you call him. He can answer all your questions and has an excellent reputation in the collecting world.
Hank
 
Back
Top