Having trouble with my 357 19-2. Binding in the trigger and hammer after shooting 10 rounds. I have been told firing 357 rounds exclusively can be too much for the gun and may cause some changes in the headspace and therefore cause binding. I inherited this gun through family and really enjoy firing it. But curently it is binding so much it is not usable.
Model 19-2
- Thread starter wkndwrnch
- Start date
Things to check:
- carbon/powder residue on front of cylinder area or around forcing cone
- ejector rod partly unscrewed
- gummed up old oil/grease internally
- debris under the extractor star
- carbon/powder residue on front of cylinder area or around forcing cone
- ejector rod partly unscrewed
- gummed up old oil/grease internally
- debris under the extractor star
Last edited:
Hillbilly77
Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
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Welcome to the forum.
Do you know the maintenance history of your M19?
Has it ever had the internals cleaned & lubed?
Has the cylinder been removed and cleaned/lubed? Does the cylinder spin freely when opened?
Most people agree that 125 grain .357 magnum bullets are the ones likely to harm the K frame revolvers and the 158 gr. dont hurt them.
The probability of damage is highly disputed.
Most everybody seems to agree that .38 Specials don't hurt K frames at all.
Do you know the maintenance history of your M19?
Has it ever had the internals cleaned & lubed?
Has the cylinder been removed and cleaned/lubed? Does the cylinder spin freely when opened?
Most people agree that 125 grain .357 magnum bullets are the ones likely to harm the K frame revolvers and the 158 gr. dont hurt them.
The probability of damage is highly disputed.
Most everybody seems to agree that .38 Specials don't hurt K frames at all.
Engine49guy
Member
Revolvers can bind for a few different reasons,
Can you go into more detail describing the way the problem occurs ?
does the gun function smoothly when unloaded and cleaned ?
Be very specific describing the problem, does the cylinder spin freely when open, is the ejector rod perfectly straight or does it wobble?
Is it binding or dragging on something , is the resistance in the hammer or trigger etc.
If your a beginner there are a TON of instructional videos on Youtube.
Can you go into more detail describing the way the problem occurs ?
does the gun function smoothly when unloaded and cleaned ?
Be very specific describing the problem, does the cylinder spin freely when open, is the ejector rod perfectly straight or does it wobble?
Is it binding or dragging on something , is the resistance in the hammer or trigger etc.
If your a beginner there are a TON of instructional videos on Youtube.
Thanks for your replies. I don't really know any maintenance history about the gun.I have cleaned the gun,the cylinder spins freely. The extractor rod seems to be bent. When I spin the cylinder, the extractor does have a wobble. I can dry fire the gun 4 times before the binding starts. The cylinder is very difficult to open, I use the palm of my hand to open the cylinder.
Engine49guy
Member
Dont force it !
There is an excellent instructional video on Youtube on how to fix a bent ejector rod...
Do not attempt to unscrew the ejector rod (which is backwards threade) unless you have 6 empty casings in the cylinder or you can break the ejector.
And dont use pliers or it will bugger up the rod.
Watch the instructional and ask questions here if in doubt before attempting any disassembly.
The 19-2 is an excellent revolver and you want to keep it in top shape.
There is an excellent instructional video on Youtube on how to fix a bent ejector rod...
Do not attempt to unscrew the ejector rod (which is backwards threade) unless you have 6 empty casings in the cylinder or you can break the ejector.
And dont use pliers or it will bugger up the rod.
Watch the instructional and ask questions here if in doubt before attempting any disassembly.
The 19-2 is an excellent revolver and you want to keep it in top shape.
Engine49guy
Member
If your not comfortable straightening the ejector rod you can replace it,
First watch the youtube instructional on how to properly check for a bent rod using a straight edge confirming its the rod thats bent.
Make sure to order the correct rod as there are a few different ones made, They are 2 different parts for a 4" or 2.5" inch barrel ,
The proper one will have Left hand threads and be blue not SS.
Rods can be bent a few different ways but it is a thin piece of hollow metal and the weak link in the system , When you close your S&W make sure to close it gently then snap it shut by squeezing the yoke arm not the cylinder or ejector rod and never slam it shut by flicking the wrist like they do in the old movies.
Keep us posted and take some pics if possible.
Its not hard to fix just delicate as the threads are tiny and polished surfaces easy to damage.
First watch the youtube instructional on how to properly check for a bent rod using a straight edge confirming its the rod thats bent.
Make sure to order the correct rod as there are a few different ones made, They are 2 different parts for a 4" or 2.5" inch barrel ,
The proper one will have Left hand threads and be blue not SS.
Rods can be bent a few different ways but it is a thin piece of hollow metal and the weak link in the system , When you close your S&W make sure to close it gently then snap it shut by squeezing the yoke arm not the cylinder or ejector rod and never slam it shut by flicking the wrist like they do in the old movies.
Keep us posted and take some pics if possible.
Its not hard to fix just delicate as the threads are tiny and polished surfaces easy to damage.
