Model 19s

phnx

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Been looking at a Model 19 at a LGS for a while now, it's a 19 no dash. It looks perfect. I looked for a cylinder line through a jeweler's loupe and MAYBE saw the slightest indication of one.

Anyway, I keep reading how they are somewhat "weak" when fed a steady diet of .357 and tend to crack. Where do these cracks occur?

I know there must be something to this but is it a regular occurrence with these revolvers?

Did S&W "toughen" them up in later versions or is this problem a fault of the K frame size and weight or something else entirely?

Thanks
 
The forcing cone is considered the critical issue area. This subject's been discussed at great length around here -- lot of opinions, some better reasoned than other, but no definitive answers. Suggest a search for good reading.

This is about the best overall read on the subject I've found:

Use of Magnum Loads in S&W Model 19 and Other K-Frame Magnums

As for the 19 in question -- it'd be pretty impressive to find an NRA "perfect" no dash, and if you did likely a pretty penny. Look it over closely and perform the proper checks.

Personally, in spite of some concerns about full house .357 in K-frames, that wouldn't (and hasn't) stopped me from owning several. When I shoot .357, I tend to stick to 135 grain and higher, ideally 158, and very little fast 125 grain. And I clean 'em when I'm done.

Point is, I've no worries about shooting and enjoying my .357 Ks. If you've found a winner, buy it. ;)
 
If you open the cylinder and look at the forcing cone the very bottom or "6 O clock" position" is where they were known to crack.

Its a rare occurance and a gun with as little wear as you describe should be OK.

K frame 357's are reportedly fine with heavier 158 grain loads,
Apparently problems occurred with lighter 125 grain rounds ,

S&W's solution was to produce the heavier L frame 586 instead.
 
As already noted, stay away from 125 gr hot rounds and you should be good according to older S&W info. As far as a turn line, the way the gun is manufactured creates a thin line as the cylinder stop releases to allow the cylinder to cycle the next chamber and as it does, it rubs on the cylinder prior to the next stop. Just the way it is - and if you have one that does not make a line I would suspect you have a poor lock up as the stop spring is so weak that it does not make a line and therefore will not lock securely.
 
...and if you have one that does not make a line I would suspect you have a poor lock up as the stop spring is so weak that it does not make a line and therefore will not lock securely.
Or a reblue.
 
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