Model 28-2, how bad is this forcing cone wear?
- Thread starter reaper556
- Start date
The recoil shield looks like it has been shot a bunch, but the top strap from what I see does not show a lot of flame cutting. I would clean it and try it out
Clean it up, and let SAFireman help you. The repairs are not difficult for a person familiar with S&Ws.
ggibson511960
Member
Briley's
You have a pretty good gunsmith resource just inside BW-8 on Lumpkin St. Briley's is reknowned for their shotgun work, but they do everything. I have used them for odds and ends with good results, and they could easily clean up the M-28. I concur with the opinions that all is well, but the pics don't show what the eyeball can see in real life. I can't tell if that whitiish ring is erosion and pitting or built up lead. Either way you will wear out before that M-28 does. Take notice how thick the barrel shank is ahead of the cylinder. It's not about to fail or split. FWIW, I used to shoot nuclear level loads through my M-28 in my younger days. Nothing fazed it except bullets with exposed lead on the base. Vaporized lead would eventually build up all over the forcing cone area and require a scrubbing. It's still tight. Wouldn't do that with a few other .357's I could name.
You have a pretty good gunsmith resource just inside BW-8 on Lumpkin St. Briley's is reknowned for their shotgun work, but they do everything. I have used them for odds and ends with good results, and they could easily clean up the M-28. I concur with the opinions that all is well, but the pics don't show what the eyeball can see in real life. I can't tell if that whitiish ring is erosion and pitting or built up lead. Either way you will wear out before that M-28 does. Take notice how thick the barrel shank is ahead of the cylinder. It's not about to fail or split. FWIW, I used to shoot nuclear level loads through my M-28 in my younger days. Nothing fazed it except bullets with exposed lead on the base. Vaporized lead would eventually build up all over the forcing cone area and require a scrubbing. It's still tight. Wouldn't do that with a few other .357's I could name.
Neversink n Klapperthal
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nothing serious at all
OP
reaper556
Member
I do remember seeing Briley the other day actually when I was at dresser rand for work. Is S&W not really recommended much due to wait times or is it their work on these older revolvers not trusted anymore?
If you trust the local gunsminth then it's just a matter of cost or convenience. Your shipping it to S&W by private carrier is about $45. It costs an FFL $20 or $25 to mail it USPS but they need to be paid for their time. Also if you use an FFL since you would not be the carrier's customer if it gets lost in transit only the FFL can pressure the carrier to find it or pay for the loss. I suggest starting by calling S&W for a quote.
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I'm pretty sure that S&W will no longer work on a revolver of this vintage. It might my imagination, but I see a slightly different bevel at the forcing cone, and I think the original owner may have had the forcing cone re-cut. It shouldn't have any bearing on your using it.
Lou_the_welder
Member
My 29-3 has been at the factory for about a month now.
They even sent me a FedEx slip to send it, with the understanding that if I denied work done after, I was to be charged $45 for the return of my firearm.
So I paid nothing to send it in. And am waiting on their estimates for the work to be done.
They even sent me a FedEx slip to send it, with the understanding that if I denied work done after, I was to be charged $45 for the return of my firearm.
So I paid nothing to send it in. And am waiting on their estimates for the work to be done.
Start by using a Lewis Lead Remover to clean the forcing cone and the bore.
Pisgah
Member
Clean it. It's fine. And unless the cylinder fore-and-aft and rotational play is excessive -- that's normal, too. A revolver has to have a certain amount of each to function, and an N-frame .357 would be the very last one I'd expect to develop problems, except maybe an N-frame .38.
OP
reaper556
Member
Thanks for that tip. I'm going to order that tool from brownells
I've used Lewis Lead removers since the early '70s but have mostly drifted away from them. Tufts torn off solid copper dish scrubbing pads wrapped around a bronze bore brush are at least as effective and are quicker to use. In normal times it would be quicker to pick up Chore Boy pads than to wait on Brownell's. The pads being less expensive does not hurt. Take a magnet to be sure any pads you buy are not copper washed steel.
Fine bronze wool pads are great for lighter duty scrubbing. Most Ace Hardware Stores have them in the paint department. Brownells also has them as do yachting supply stores around marinas.
Fine bronze wool pads are great for lighter duty scrubbing. Most Ace Hardware Stores have them in the paint department. Brownells also has them as do yachting supply stores around marinas.
I'd go shoot it first, and then decide if it has problems.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it! A good cleaning is needed, but if the face of the cylinder doesn't bind against the rear of the barrel, and you don't have any misfires, the endshake is probably acceptable. And some side to side rotation of the cylinder is normal. And if it does have a small problem, it can be easily fixed.
