Model 28 issues cylinder and trigger

[nipster]

Here is some more pics. Please dont puke when you see the condition of the gun, you really have no idea what it looked like when I got it. It's obviously not a collector gun, but I believe it can be a shooter when I am done with it.

 

[nipster]

More closeup

 

[ikor]

Hard to tell for sure so wait for some others to comment too, but your bolt looks to me like it is not going as far forward as it should. The system works by pushing forward on the thumb piece...attached to the internal bolt...which in turn pushes the center pin forward, and the center pin pushes on the forward locking bolt under the barrel. Given how dirty / sandy you said this gun was (and it looks the part) there may still be some dirt behind the bolt cutout in the frame or the spring / plunger behind it may not be working right. Did you pull the assembly and clean / oil it well when you cleaned the rest of the internals?

If the bolt cannot push the end of the center pin flush to the recoil shield, the cylinder will catch and be difficult to get open. If this is not the case I woukld suspect the front locking bolt may be doing something similar due to dirt / grunge and maybe not moving far enough forward toward the muzzle when the bolt / thumbpiece is pushed. Did you remove it and the spring for a deep clean?

 

[Maximumbob54]

I didn't barf at all. Even with the troubles I would have bought that one. I agree the marks look too much like firing pin strikes in the back of the cylinder and I would also clean to the Nth degree the insides all over again. Keep at it and you will have one awesome shooter.

 

[nipster]

Yes, I completely removed and disassembled every internal piece with 2 exceptions. The ONLY pieces I did not disassemble was the hammer and sear assembly and the trigger and hand assembly. Although I did remove those parts and thoroughly cleaned and oiled them both and they freely move.

I did remove the bolt and the spring/pin that goes in the bolt and cleaned them, it freely moves without obstruction. It's quite possible that there is still some gunk in there, but I dont think so. You could EAT off the inside of this gun after I was done with it. But I will disassemble it again and take a a look at the bolt. It's easy enough to do.

Consequently, this is the first 4 hole model I have owned, I really like the cylinder stop pin/spring design of the 4 hole versus the "improved" 3 hole version. Makes it MUCH easier to do. Why did they delete that?

One more question, is it possible the center pin is worn to the point that it does not protrude enough?

 

[nipster]

Given how dirty / sandy you said this gun was (and it looks the part) there may still be some dirt behind the bolt cutout in the frame or the spring / plunger behind it may not be working right. Did you pull the assembly and clean / oil it well when you cleaned the rest of the internals?

I did not do that, but it does move freely. I can see it move when you push on the cylinder release. I actually have never removed that part. It appears there is a pin that holds it in place, how do you remove it?

 

[nipster]

By the way, unrelated, but since this revelation of the hammer strikes on the cylinder, I have taken a look at each one of my weapons and one has that. My 629 no dash. Is there a graceful way to remove those? It's not nearly as bad as this 28, and it is definitely in time, but must have gone out of time in the past.

On the 28, when the extractor star "returns" to it's normal resting position, it can stick sometimes if you lightly utilize the extractor, a good forceful use of the rod it does not do that.

 

[ikor]

I did not do that, but it does move freely. I can see it move when you push on the cylinder release. I actually have never removed that part. It appears there is a pin that holds it in place, how do you remove it?

I am confused. You did or did not remove the bolt assembly? If not, take off the thumbpiece and then you have to sorta wiggle the bolt forward while working the back end (with spring and plunger) upwards and back from the inside. It is rare to need it, but the shoulder on the bolt can be filed to relieve it a bit and let it forward just a smidge. Spring and plunger should move freely and spring should not be broken or too weak (subjective, I know but sometimes rust will cause a spring to break at a weak point) And the cutout should be clean and pristene. Check the shoulder of the bolt and the frame for gunk too.

The front locking lug is, indeed, held in by a pin and has a spring behind it. If it is moving freely I'd just leave it alone but maybe flush it out well with WD40 or an aerosol and then relube...it should not be too easy to push in by hand (again...subjective).

 

[nipster]

I am confused. You did or did not remove the bolt assembly? ... The front locking lug is, indeed, held in by a pin and has a spring behind it. If it is moving freely I'd just leave it alone but maybe flush it out well with WD40 or an aerosol and then relube...it should not be too easy to push in by hand (again...subjective).

I took out the bolt, assembly and pin/spring, I thought you were referring to the pin at the end of where the extractor sits (at the barrel end of the gun), I am not sure what that part is called (front locking lug maybe?).

 

[ikor]

Yep...the one at the end of where the extractor sits is the front locking lug. (S&W official name).

Your star / ratchet not wanting to go into place when worked slowly is most likely a bent locator pin underneath the extractor star...they will get bent and / or lost, and once gone, even just one, the gun will slowly work itself out of time. You can straighten it by VERY carefully using the body of a replaceable pin punch (the punch removed so that it is hollow) and bending it back into place. The FBI gunsmiths used to make a special tool that would both drive in and stake those pins at the same time but I never saw one for sale anywhere. The rest of us had to make do with home made prick punches, again VERY carefully used so as not to throw up a burr that would cause the star to stand proud. Pins are still available IIRC from Brownell's.

 

[jpauls70]

thank you so much. all I did was tighten the pin and that fixed thr problem.

 

[steelslaver]

Here is what I would do if it were in my hands. Completely disassemble. Remove thumb piece and the bolt mechanism. Check the spring and plunger and use carb cleaner to flush out the holes. Scrub everything with a small brass brush. Drop of oil in any pin or slide surface. Stick 3 or more fired cases in cylinder and use a drill chuck on extractor rod to remove it. Remove extractor star. Clean everything with brass brush. Roll extractor on a piece of glass to make sure its straight. Check center rod as well as possible for straight. Use a small hard stone to clean up marks on star cylindeer. Reassemble with light oil on shaft areas. Spray carb cleaner on locking lug under barrel and work it with screw driver tip an bunch, making sure it is good and clean and free. Drop od oil on it. Now check the gun for function. Check for yoke movement and endshake and if more than .003 ad a shim or 2 to get it to .001 to .002.

 

[Tom S.]

Digging them up...