Model 29-10 Classic Cylinder Burn

[jaymoore]

Are you guys sure the burn is in the finish? I have late model 29-10's and have always been able to remove the powder residue marks on the cylinder. Mine have to finish damage. The marks on mine are patterned like yours. I have never done anything to address the recess left in the boss of the top strap for the rear sight front screw. I can usually rub it off with a solvent and a cotton patch. A copper Kleanbore scrub brush cleans up the tough deposits.

I suspect it has something to do with ammo. Ball vs. extruded powder, or maybe priming compound. Could even be cylinder gap dependent.

As I'm more of a trigger puller than an art collector, these things don't particularly concern me. (Or maybe I'm trying to be a "performance artist"? In which case such marks could be a "feature"!)

 

[slickracer]

With all due respect, this is absolute nonsense:

After you dry your eyes (j/k) consider the lament of guys who purchased 7mm Remington Magnum chambered rifles when it first came out, only to discover that the cartridge was so hot, the barrel throat was severely eroded within a single box of cartridges!

 

[Asera77]

I know how you feel OP. I haven't even shot mine. Waited weeks to get it. Scratch on the top strap near the rear sight. Multiple spots of rust where the crane folds into the frame. Totally unacceptable and very disappointing.

Yes its very lame that this has happen...Sorry to hear about those rusted spots no excuse for that.

Now like i said before guys, i don't care about wear spots on a gun. But it shouldnt happen after only taking it out one time to the range. If this was after 6 months or a year of heavy shooting yeah i can live with it. But this is all due from a tap for a scope. Like i said before you really don't hear or see this happening to older 29's. because they don't have that tap for the scope.

Hopefully Smith and Wesson takes care of it

 

[SLT223]

With all due respect, this is absolute nonsense:

After you dry your eyes (j/k) consider the lament of guys who purchased 7mm Remington Magnum chambered rifles when it first came out, only to discover that the cartridge was so hot, the barrel throat was severely eroded within a single box of cartridges!

The rest of the post regarding burn rate was a tad inaccurate as well...

 

[Tom S.]

Yes that is after cleaning....the bluing is gone. Smith and Wesson said they will Reblue it but its gonna happen again due to the tap for the scope mount. As soon as i started to tell him the problem he finished what i was saying describing what the burns looking like and how the bluing is missing...this is a known issue.

Also guys i'm not freaking out because im getting a gun dirty or scratching it or something...that's fine wear is wear im ok with that 100%. My issue is I paid $1000 bucks for a brand new gun on tuesday. Then shoot 80 rounds on Thursday and the bluing on the front of the cylinder between every flute is some what gone. That kinda sucks...hey im all for wear it gives a gun character, I have a bunch of ww2 rifles and they have tons of wear. But this is a little to soon, 80 rounds thats all that has been shot threw this gun... i only had it for 3 days.

Just spit balling here - how and with what did you clean it with? I'm not doubting what S&W told you as they should know, but some cleaning products will actually take off the bluing too. Among them are the lead removing cloths by Birchwood Casey and others. When you get it back, I would not only put a screw in the 'offending' hole, but also consider coating the cylinder with something before shooting as someone else mentioned. Also consider that if the set screw has an allen head (hex cut hole), it may not help the problem that much. You might need to fill the hole (in the screw, not the frame) with something like epoxy.

 

[Laketime]

Smith & Wesson stating it being a common problem...yet continue to produce it as is......That is the real problem!

 

[BruceM]

I don't know about anybody else's guns but my revolvers get that type of fouling all the time. It happens on both new and old guns, blued and stainless. Ditto for the cylinder face. In my case anyway it's a combination of carbon fouling and lead residue. Takes some time to get rid of but patience and a little care gets it done without damaging the finish.

Now, if you have cleaned the cylinder edges and you're actually down to bare steel-it would be still another reason not to buy blued S&W guns manufactured starting around 2005 or whenever the bluing procedure changed again.

Bruce

 

[Riptide]

Hey folks sorry to bump this but I just got these screws off the Midway website. I was going to replace the one in the top strap and file the bottom end down to fit flush.

Did I get the wrong ones? They thread fine but the head of the screw up top sticks out more than the one the gun came with. Not sure about dremeling or filing the top of the screw down seems like that might mess it up.

Forster Slotted Oval .200 Diameter Head Screws 6-48 Blue

EDIT: Attached a photo the stock screw is on the left.

 

[robert1804]

Hey folks sorry to bump this but I just got these screws off the Midway website. I was going to replace the one in the top strap and file the bottom end down to fit flush.

Did I get the wrong ones? They thread fine but the head of the screw up top sticks out more than the one the gun came with. Not sure about dremeling or filing the top of the screw down seems like that might mess it up.

Forster Slotted Oval .200 Diameter Head Screws 6-48 Blue

EDIT: Attached a photo the stock screw is on the left.

That's the correct screw. It does stick up a little but the bevel is correct. I wouldn't file it down because it would make the slot shallower and that screw needs to be fairly tight. That screw being proud of the sight a little looks a lot better than a scoured cylinder.

 

[MajorD]

A gun subjected to regular firing and hard use in hunting such an insignificant purely cosmetic issue is the epitome of inconsequential

 

[Qc Pistolero]

Balistol;spray on the spot,go have a coffee(or a beer)for 20 min and use an old toothbrush tu remove the spots.Balistol won't damage the blue(or wood or plastic).Smells funny but it works!
Qc

 

[SLT223]

Balistol;spray on the spot,go have a coffee(or a beer)for 20 min and use an old toothbrush tu remove the spots.Balistol won't damage the blue(or wood or plastic).Smells funny but it works!
Qc

No but it does seem to damage my nostrils

 

[neomedic]

Looking to get a new 29-10. Has S&W fixed this issue and stop drilling through?

Thanks.

 

[neomedic]

Anyone have a picture of what it looks like?
We are to only file down the end of the screw (and not the head with the slot for screwdriver). About how much to file?
And how smooth does it have to be with the top strap?
Only have a hand file.

Hey folks sorry to bump this but I just got these screws off the Midway website. I was going to replace the one in the top strap and file the bottom end down to fit flush.

Did I get the wrong ones? They thread fine but the head of the screw up top sticks out more than the one the gun came with. Not sure about dremeling or filing the top of the screw down seems like that might mess it up.

Forster Slotted Oval .200 Diameter Head Screws 6-48 Blue

EDIT: Attached a photo the stock screw is on the left.

 

[Auto Mag]

Okay, one more time... how many rounds??!!

 

[twodog max]

A non problem. Clean it off and go on

 

[BigChief52]

Is this still going on? Hard to believe S&W hasn't corrected this by now. If you look at an earlier 29/629 you'll see that they were careful to drill the sight mounting screw just ahead of the cylinder gap.

 

[neomedic]

Those that got the new screw from S&W that comes close / flush with the top strap...did the issue resolve completely? Or just minimized?

Thanks.

 

[neomedic]

Anyone with continued issues of cylinder burns after using S&W's longer screw?

 

[BigChief52]

Out of curiosity, Is there some reason the rear sight mounting screw can't be moved forward on the latest model 29s? On the earlier 29s there is just enough room for it to be ahead of instead of directly over the cylinder gap. Pretty sure this burning and or cleaning will wear off the bluing off eventually.