Model 29 blow up
- Thread starter Campin Buddy
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Fboyj
Member
twodog max
Member
This thread has went all over the world but has went nowhere. Take good pictures of everything, document lot numbers on the ammo, and send it back to S&W. I would think S&W would replace the gun without to much trouble but you won't know until it goes back. Since you suffered no injury and only a possible financial loss except for a huge scare there in no loss on your end.
Also just because some blow ups are shooting reloads does not necessarily mean S&W will not make good. I have a friend that blew up a Model 60 and admitted using reloads and S&W reimbursed him. It took quite a bit of back and forth but they did come through in the end. I suppose it depends on who you talk to and how you talk to them.
One thing for sure if you frag an attorney into this at the start it will drag on forever. Immediately S&W will send in their attorney and it will drag on for eternity. My son is an attorney and I have heard many stories from him how this scenario plays out.
Also just because some blow ups are shooting reloads does not necessarily mean S&W will not make good. I have a friend that blew up a Model 60 and admitted using reloads and S&W reimbursed him. It took quite a bit of back and forth but they did come through in the end. I suppose it depends on who you talk to and how you talk to them.
One thing for sure if you frag an attorney into this at the start it will drag on forever. Immediately S&W will send in their attorney and it will drag on for eternity. My son is an attorney and I have heard many stories from him how this scenario plays out.
Best advice yet, sorry, I couldn't resist.
Well good luck and I hope you get treated well. I totally agree whenever you push the legal button you are going to slow things way down so most of the time it can be counter productive. But when push comes to shove it's the only way some times. Just look at Remington and their Walker triggers to see how some companies will just blow off their customers unless drug into court. Talk about a slow expensive class action suit but it was the only way to get them to respond. Take good pictures and notes no kidding
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Had the same thing happen to me 1974 got the 29 for a Christmas present went to the range next day loaded six rounds of Federal 230 44 mag fired two rounds I said to myself what a kick looked down at the gun the top strap and top half of the cylinder was gone,luckly I was not hurt. Living in CT S&W was close. Those days I was able to go in the main building and meet with Roy Jinks who look at the gun stated he had never seen damage like this. He said he will call federal give them the lot number from the box and have the gun examined at the factory I was able to recover part of the top strap and top of cylinder. Approximately 3 months later I received the 29 back they replaced the frame and cylinder took the barrel from the old one.
They sent there apologies for the problem. Federal said they inspected the gun and blamed S&W.
They sent there apologies for the problem. Federal said they inspected the gun and blamed S&W.
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Good move Camping Buddy. S&W is a very reputable company and because there were no damages beyond the weapon (which means little chance of successful litigation) I suspect they will do what they can to defend their reputation and to maintain you and us as customers.
gbran
Member
You are lucky to have eyes to see and fingers to post this thread. I had to have eye surgery after a muzzle brake from a Mosin blew up in my face. No perm damage, all is good now.
Stilltrying
Member
This seems like a good class project for a local college metallurgy department. They have the technology for the real answer.
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
Looking at latest photo 2-I would say Lee has the best scenario from what has been presented. JMTCW.
Save the good parts
I am glad you are o.k.. I had 629 blow up in my hand from using reloads from a "friend". I sent it to smith and they said it was the ammunition's fault. They did offer to sell me a new one at cost. I took them on the offer. If did find it odd that they did not return my old revolver. I am sure the trigger, barrel, and several other parts were fine. I don't know how to attach a link but if you look at my first few ever posts can see the pictures. And.........you can all skip the lecture on shooting reloads from someone else. I learned that the hard way like most things.
I am glad you are o.k.. I had 629 blow up in my hand from using reloads from a "friend". I sent it to smith and they said it was the ammunition's fault. They did offer to sell me a new one at cost. I took them on the offer. If did find it odd that they did not return my old revolver. I am sure the trigger, barrel, and several other parts were fine. I don't know how to attach a link but if you look at my first few ever posts can see the pictures. And.........you can all skip the lecture on shooting reloads from someone else. I learned that the hard way like most things.
D.H. Callahan
Member
There wouldn't be enough difference to do that. Such a round would never fit in the chamber. Even if it did, it would have gotten caught in the cylinder and taken that out.
Hope everything turns out for the best
The last set of photos seem to show a lot of rust on the fracture surface of the barrel. Also, there seems to be a shiny portion and a dull portion to that fracture surface. Almost looks like there was a pre-existing crack in the barrel, which finally weakened enough to catastrophically let go the rest of the way.
Also, with no injuries and an $800 gun at stake, only someone with lots of money to waste would hire an attorney. Plus, S&W ain't doing nothing without the gun in their hands. The OP's only realistic recourse is to send in the gun and hope for the best.
Also, with no injuries and an $800 gun at stake, only someone with lots of money to waste would hire an attorney. Plus, S&W ain't doing nothing without the gun in their hands. The OP's only realistic recourse is to send in the gun and hope for the best.
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pittpa
Member
Missed your question over the holidays. 22 LR had extra heavy coat of waxy lube. Prevented going into battery.
S.B.
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Going back over your other posts, you posted a "New to handguns",(http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/449225-choosing-store-bought-revolver.html and now this one)in October in 2015 and you further stated it was a .44 S&W? Pretty large purchase for someone new to handguns? I would suggest you go to something in the .22LR range before going any further? Pardon me but, just how much experience do you have with these big boomers?
My $.02, Steve
My $.02, Steve
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SLT223
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Steve, how does inexperience with a large bore handgun, either presumed or otherwise, have anything to do with the gun failing under use with the correct caliber factory ammo?
If he had more experience, what would he have done differently to prevent what happened?
model70hunter
Member
There is only one thing to do, photograph and get an RMA from S&W. Send them the gun. Keep records.
I sent a Beretta 303 back and had a new one in a week. I also sent a factory rusted NIB Ruger #1 back and they replaced it.
I have a 629 last model and shoot it once in a while. It is more of a back up rather than a shoot targets with.
When Stainless revolvers 1st came out there were probably more exploded guns in a couple of years that in the previous 50 with blue steel revolvers.
I wanted one but held back sticking to blue steel except for Ruger Stainless 22's.
Blue steel and Stainless steel grain structures differently when heated and made inot the steel bars for the final machining. Blue steel grains run parallel, for a lack of a better term, while stainless steel grains are like packed sand. I have seen both types that have exploded in microscopic pictures.
Blue steel seems to open as in a tear, like a bulged bbl and a rip along the top of the bulge.
Stainless seems to grenade and go to many pieces.
Stainless grain structures under the microscope looks like sand grains surrounded by fluid metal after the grenading.
To be honest after all the artices I read and pictures I saw in the 80's I stuck with blue steel.
I looked for blue steel 4" revolvers in 29 and 586 for a long time and ended up buying a 686 and a 629. So far no issues, but every time I shoot them the grainy pictures of grenaded stainless crosses my mind.
So hope you have an excellent end result. If it was me I would have sent it off long ago.
I sent a Beretta 303 back and had a new one in a week. I also sent a factory rusted NIB Ruger #1 back and they replaced it.
I have a 629 last model and shoot it once in a while. It is more of a back up rather than a shoot targets with.
When Stainless revolvers 1st came out there were probably more exploded guns in a couple of years that in the previous 50 with blue steel revolvers.
I wanted one but held back sticking to blue steel except for Ruger Stainless 22's.
Blue steel and Stainless steel grain structures differently when heated and made inot the steel bars for the final machining. Blue steel grains run parallel, for a lack of a better term, while stainless steel grains are like packed sand. I have seen both types that have exploded in microscopic pictures.
Blue steel seems to open as in a tear, like a bulged bbl and a rip along the top of the bulge.
Stainless seems to grenade and go to many pieces.
Stainless grain structures under the microscope looks like sand grains surrounded by fluid metal after the grenading.
To be honest after all the artices I read and pictures I saw in the 80's I stuck with blue steel.
I looked for blue steel 4" revolvers in 29 and 586 for a long time and ended up buying a 686 and a 629. So far no issues, but every time I shoot them the grainy pictures of grenaded stainless crosses my mind.
So hope you have an excellent end result. If it was me I would have sent it off long ago.
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