Model 29 Bluing Concern

[MattMPA]

To make a long story short, I ordered a new Smith& Wesson model 29 in October 2019 and and it finally came in in February 2020.

It had a blotchy, milky finish in the bluing and my dealer suggested I contact Smith & Wesson. I did so, and they asked for me to send it back. My dealer returned it to Smith & Wesson.



When it returned, it had some gouges just forward of the trigger guard. I contacted Smith & Wesson, and sent them pictures. They wanted the gun back again. My dealer once again sent it back.



When it returned this time, Smith& Wesson had not repaired it and in their notation blamed the customer for the damage and said they would not repair it, or take it in for a paid repair. I called Smith & Wesson. In the end, I wound up working with someone via email who agreed to make it right. I certainly didn't cause the damage, and the gun had only been in my hands less than a week since delivery, as it was spending all its time at Smith & Wesson.



It returned for the third time in the beginning of June. It looked good, although it was heavily oiled.



Today, I thought it might be a good idea to take it out of the save, give it a wipe down and oiling since it's getting humid here in PA. I was surprised to see these milky spots appearing on the gun again. I read on these forums that Remoil may help, but it didn't make a difference in this case.



I'd sure be thankful for any thoughts on this. I always wanted one of these, now that I have it to say I'm disappointed would be an understatement. Especially, considering this gun is shipped with a presentation case and is part of the Classic Series. One would think they'd be beautiful.

I'm going to also drop an email to the person that helped me at Smith & Wesson, but something tells me they're not going to be apt the deal with this gun a fourth time.



Finally, I'd like to add that I've never fired this gun, and haven't cleaned it. It is only had a mild wipe down with oil.

 

[hogblue]

Email your contact at the plant you've been working with. Send him the pictures of the cloudy spots. This is not acceptable for a new revolver that's never been fired except at the plant. Someone in finishing is not doing their job and inspections is letting it slide.

Politely request a refinish or replacement since this is the fourth trip back.
Explain to them you expect to not only use but admire quality workmanship. I hope this helps

 

[rubiranch]

Sorry for all your troubles.

That finish is totally unacceptable.

And so is their service.

 

[rubiranch]

Email your contact at the plant you've been working with.

Politely request a replacement since this is the fourth trip back.

Explain to them you expect to not only use but admire quality workmanship. I hope this helps

Here's what I'd be putting in the email.

 

[Neversink n Klapperthal]

I have seen many of the 3rd change guns with very similar milkiness in the same area. I dont know,maybe a hard area to polish

 

[MattMPA]

Thanks very much guys!

I looked at it again today, and if I'm a bit picky...some areas that were "thin" the first time around...are that way again. I don't know the bluing process, but makes me wonder if the metal simply isn't being correctly prepped.

To say I've treated this with kid gloves would be an understatement as I'm starting to think this bluing has no longevity.

I read another thread this AM, where S&W says not to use Renaissance wax as it contains silicone. I've always read that this doesn't have silicone...but S&W is saying that using this on a blued gun will damage the bluing? I've not treated the 29 with it, but an Uberti ElPAtron is showing no ill effects from the Ren Wax.

 

[rubiranch]

I read another thread this AM, where S&W says not to use Renaissance wax as it contains silicone. I've always read that this doesn't have silicone...but S&W is saying that using this on a blued gun will damage the bluing? I've not treated the 29 with it, but an Uberti ElPAtron is showing no ill effects from the Ren Wax.

I don't buy that at all. I've used Flitz to polish every one of my S&W and finished them off with a nice coat of Renaissance Wax and I'm quite sure that thousands of others have done the same with no ill effects to the finish.









Apparently it has not damaged the bluing on my 1964 M29-2.

I don't understand why S&W wont step up to the pump and make it right with you.

The finish on your BRAND NEW M29 is unacceptable.

Just remember, the squeak gets the oil.

 

[Narragansett]

Excuse me here, but the silicone issue is a bunch of **** IMO. I have been using Kel- Tec #110 or #105 PURE silicone applied to every one of my firearms on a piece of real lambswool since 1968. Zero issues, and zero rust

How many silicone gun socks has Midway sold? How many silicone cloths has Hoppes sold? Is this on any printed literature that came with the gun?

The only part of that argument that might hold any water is if there are other agents in the aerosol can besides silicone.

If i had any sense I should just ship all my guns to Rubi for a wax job

 

[AlHunt]

So, have they reblued it twice now? As in, have to buff the whole thing down and start again? How often can that happen before it shows signs of multiple refinishes?

 

[MattMPA]

So, have they reblued it twice now? As in, have to buff the whole thing down and start again? How often can that happen before it shows signs of multiple refinishes?

It was refinished first due to a milky appearance that is shown in the one picture. When it returned, it had the gouges in it as shown in the other picture. S & W blamed "the customer" for the gouges and didn't want to fix it...but in the end did. (There does seem to be a difference in color from the frame to the crane in that pic...so maybe the entire revolver wasn't re-blued?)

I thought it was OK when it returned this time, but when I took it out to oil/wipe down yesterday, found what's pictured above.

All that being said, I don't know the process....so it's hard for me to say how many times it can be done, etc.

Seems to me that if bluing can be polished with something like Flitz....I surely couldn't harm with oil and a cloth.

I truly don't want to be a difficult customer....I just want the darned thing right.

 

[Pizza Bob]

I read another thread this AM, where S&W says not to use Renaissance wax as it contains silicone.

You have to make the distinction here - S&W didn't say that, "someone" said that S&W said that. The only thing that I have ever seen from S&W is a warning about using ammoniated cleaners - like Hoppes #9 (OK for the bore & chambers, just don't get it on the exterior finish - Use Hoppes Elite - no ammonia).

Ren Wax is used by art restorers on fine art with no problem. Wood, metal, oil paint on canvas - it's good for them all.

As has been recommended, contact them again. Ask to speak to a supervisor. Follow that up with snail mail outlining the whole scenario.

Sorry for your trouble. I hope that Smith makes it right.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[Jimmys&w]

I absolutely 100% feel your pain. I've wanted the 29 forever but ended up going the Glock route. Of course when I finally spring for the 29-10 PC I screw it up with hoppes. That gut shot after spending so much, firing it and falling in love all over again, then cleaning it only to end up with splotches? I was pissed because I was the one who did this. And after all the research I put in!

I'm not sure the difference between the old blueing and the new blueing or even if the process they use now might differ from batch to batch but I can say it broke my heart to let that thing go. I didn't lose too much on the sale as I had not fired it after getting it reblued. I will get another someday... it'll be one of the older ones that everyone says they've been using hoppes on for decades with zero problems. Until then I've got my 629 all satin'd out ready for the Frank Church Wilderness.

 

[ancient-one]

Forget CS, send a Registered Letter to the highest level at S&W giving them the problem and plenty of pictures.
If you can, give a history of your problems, dates and basic conversations between you and CS and not that it helps, I think that you are due a new gun. Stay on them. They owe you!

 

[AlHunt]

It was refinished first due to a milky appearance that is shown in the one picture. When it returned, it had the gouges in it as shown in the other picture. S & W blamed "the customer" for the gouges and didn't want to fix it...but in the end did. (There does seem to be a difference in color from the frame to the crane in that pic...so maybe the entire revolver wasn't re-blued?)

I thought it was OK when it returned this time, but when I took it out to oil/wipe down yesterday, found what's pictured above.

All that being said, I don't know the process....so it's hard for me to say how many times it can be done, etc.

Seems to me that if bluing can be polished with something like Flitz....I surely couldn't harm with oil and a cloth.

I truly don't want to be a difficult customer....I just want the darned thing right.

The milkiness in the first pic looks different than the splotchiness in this pic. It really looks like oil residue, especially the way it sort of pools around that screw head, but I'm going to assume you've tried wiping it off.

Did you use any kind of cleaner on it once it came back? I've read repeatedly that Hoppes #9 will damage modern blueing. If not, I'd agree they need to revisit this one.

Good luck with it. I'd be disappointed, too.

 

[MattMPA]

The first time….(the left pic shown in post %10) I did try to wipe it off, as did my FFL. It was they who first suggested contacting S&W.

The Ren Wax. Point taken, Pizza Bob. I don't have first hand knowledge, only what was posted here, 629-6 stainless to matte silver. I personally cannot imagine how Ren Wax could hurt a thing.


I've only wiped it down with a couple different oils and a cloth. I haven't even fired it.

I have pics of it all...and may even have the letter I enclosed each time and will send a registered letter. That's a fabulous suggestion.

 

[hittman77]

I'm usually not real picky but ..... in this case, yeah, unacceptable finish.

Hindsight being what it is ...... right here's a good reason to buy good quality OLD guns. Seems they're generally better quality, fit and finish plus may appreciate in value quicker.

 

[Jimmys&w]

You have to make the distinction here - S&W didn't say that, "someone" said that S&W said that. The only thing that I have ever seen from S&W is a warning about using ammoniated cleaners - like Hoppes #9 (OK for the bore & chambers, just don't get it on the exterior finish - Use Hoppes Elite - no ammonia).

Ren Wax is used by art restorers on fine art with no problem. Wood, metal, oil paint on canvas - it's good for them all.

As has been recommended, contact them again. Ask to speak to a supervisor. Follow that up with snail mail outlining the whole scenario.

Sorry for your trouble. I hope that Smith makes it right.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

I was the guy who said S&W stated not to use Renaissance Wax. It was, and still is, in an email sent to me from them. I was inquiring about the blueing and if it was ok to use Hoppes and Renaissance Wax. The answer to both was no.

But!!!!....

I've contacted them before via email and have felt I was only getting an opinion from one guy or gal rather than perhaps someone looking an an S&W wiki that had straight and true answers. I've even stated as much with my replies to them. I don't believe that RenWax is an issue but I can for certain tell you Hoppes is an issue on the new blued guns.

 

[MattMPA]

An update. Kind of.

My contact at S&W got back to me today. In our few emails back and forth, I was told not to use Hoppes #7 or any ammoniated cleaner.

It was suggested that I try some Breakfree CLP with a soft brush, and a picture of the brush was provided. I had a both and followed the suggestion. It made no difference.

I responded with a fresh picture and email, even suggesting that a quick phone call may be better than emails back and forth. In the end, I asked what more could be done.

I've heard nothing else today. I'll keep you all in the loop.

 

[MattMPA]

Well guys, another update. The gentleman I have been working with at S&W has requested the 29 back. They sent me a tag, and I shipped it on Thursday. It looks like it is going to be replaced at this point.

Thanks for your thoughts and help!

 

[ImDrRich]

Good for you. I was going to add that, after all has been made right, you might consider writing a letter (not email) to the president of S&W detailing your experience.

I cannot believe that business is so good that they've given up caring about quality and customer appreciation. Up to you, of course.