Model 29 Bluing

[nooch450]

After you fired the two boxes of ammo, you didn't clean the gun with Hoppes #9 (or similar cleaner) by any chance did you? Ammoniated cleaners can ruin the finish on the guns that are blued the environmentally friendly way, which being a 29-10, yours certainly was. Just a thought - no hint as to how, or even if, it can be restored.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Actually when I did clean the gun I did use Hoppes #9. I was extremely careful to only get it inside the barrel and wherever there was fouling that needed to be removed.

I've heard about this causing damage before so I did a test. I actually took a dab of Hoppes #9 and tested it underneath the grip. I let it sit for a few minutes and then wiped it off and it showed no sign of damage. I then proceeded to actually put some on the shiny spot on the barrel to see if that's what caused it. I let it sit for a minute and wiped it off and it did no damage...

Maybe if you left it on there for a really long time and rubbed it really hard it might do some damage but getting a little bit on there and then wiping it off didn't do any harm it at all.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[BubbaShakers]

I have seen similar milkiness in the bluing on some of the current production "classics," but never this extreme.

This is also the first time I've ever heard of an otherwise decent bluing "turning" while in storage.

• How old is the gun?
  
• Is the other side of the frame as bad? Does the "good" area in the middle of the barrel go all the way around?

If the underside is worse than the top, it may suggest the lining material is reacting with finish. If this is the case, the cylinder may show bands of discoloration where it's coming in contact with the lining (or bands of normal finish in the portions that were inside the frame).

I would not recommend flitz or any other abrasives (e.g. Mother's Mag Polish) on the newer "classics" series guns. The finish on these is no where near as durable as the pre 2K bluing.

 

[mmande]

nooch450 said;
"Mike, Have you tried the FLITZ on the newer production blued Smiths like the one I have here with good results?"

My newest Smiths have all been stainless steel so I don't know about the new blue ones. Maybe that's why people are saying to stay away from using it.
I'm still confused about your picture. Why is the area that says "Wesson" a bright, shiny blue and the rest of the gun a dull blue? Was it that way when you last put it away?
Mike

 

[nooch450]

So the Amazon truck came today and brought the tube of FLITZ polish that I ordered.

Well it was a success!!!

For anybody wondering if FLITZ will damage the bluing on the newer style Smith & Wesson revolvers. The answer is NO it won't if used carefully. I first tried it under the grip and saw no adverse effects so I went on to trying it on my dull milky spots. I did use it in moderation and I didn't put alot of pressure while using it with a clean cotton rag. I didnt sit there and go crazy with it as I was worried. It did shine up those dull areas very easily.

I recommend this solution to anyone who is seeing some mild milky bluing on their newer Smith & Wesson revolver.

So I came to some conclusions during my testing.

1. Hoppes #9 will not "instantly damage the bluing on your new Smith & Wesson revolver"

2. FLITZ polish will not "instantly damage the bluing on your new Smith & Wesson revolver" in fact it will touch up the shine on your gun if used carefully and sparingly.

However!!! I would definitely not unnecessarily be dumping loads of either product all over your gun and getting aggressive with it because I'm unsure what COULD happen if you were to get carried away.

You can see the results in my pictures. I tried to take a few pictures at a few slightly different angles so you guys could see the results better.

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[Laketime]

What a difference.

 

[nooch450]

Here is a couple more pictures in a different light where I took the original ones before polishing.

I didnt go for 100% mirror finish perfect. I went for what I found to be acceptable.

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[luvsmiths]

So the Amazon truck came today and brought the tube of FLITZ polish that I ordered.

Well it was a success!!!

For anybody wondering if FLITZ will damage the bluing on the newer style Smith & Wesson revolvers. The answer is NO it won't if used carefully. I first tried it under the grip and saw no adverse effects so I went on to trying it on my dull milky spots. I did use it in moderation and I didn't put alot of pressure while using it with a clean cotton rag. I didnt sit there and go crazy with it as I was worried. It did shine up those dull areas very easily.

I recommend this solution to anyone who is seeing some mild milky bluing on their newer Smith & Wesson revolver.

So I came to some conclusions during my testing.

1. Hoppes #9 will not "instantly damage the bluing on your new Smith & Wesson revolver"

2. FLITZ polish will not "instantly damage the bluing on your new Smith & Wesson revolver" in fact it will touch up the shine on your gun if used carefully and sparingly.

However!!! I would definitely not unnecessarily be dumping loads of either product all over your gun and getting aggressive with it because I'm unsure what COULD happen if you were to get carried away.

You can see the results in my pictures. I tried to take a few pictures at a few slightly different angles so you guys could see the results better.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

It's what I suspected. Same as the way the Nickel gets cloudy sometime when sitting. Flitz always clears it right up.

NOW Ren Wax it.

And as for those saying Hoppes damages bluing.... ahem- ok.

 

[rct269]

As a casual observer, I'm inclined to say something was ON the finish rather than in it------------and I'm happy for you that it came off.

"Endeavor to persevere!!"

Ralph Tremaine

And as an aside, let me suggest the use of "PRE-LIM" as a cleaner-------rather than ANYTHING else. (!!) (PRE-LIM is the surface cleaner made by/recommended by the Renaissance Wax folks.)

 

[Nick B]

Wow what a difference. Good job on cleaning that up. I turned down buying a new 29-10 just 2 weeks ago for the same thing . The finish right out of the box was dull and cloudy just like the OP's gun .

 

[Nick B]

When you we're polishing it was there residue coming off on the rag ?

 

[bob richardson]

Hoppe's #9,Flitz,Ren Wax

I've used Hoppe's #9,Flitz and mother's for 45 years with no issues.Blue,Nickel and Stainless.Used properly and sparingly.Thouroughly clean with Hoppes and wipe off.Apply Flitz or Mothers lightly and sparingly with cotton or microfiber.Oil action and bore.Finish with Ren Wax.I store mine with stocks off,wrapped in a rag inside gun rugs in a dehumidified safe.Stocks left on can and will cloud finishes especially nickel and the dry air in your safe can and will dry out your stocks.I had a beautiful set of "cokes"develop a split which I blame on super dry air in the safe.Once a year a little wood "nourishment"not anything to alter finish is applied to stocks.45 years of this and no issues.Only use the Flitz or Mothers one time as the Ren Wax usually keeps the finish brilliant .

 

[nooch450]

When you we're polishing it was there residue coming off on the rag ?

Yes, it looked like brown residue almost like rust.

I also did Ren Wax it after I got it to shine up to protect it.

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[PALADIN85020]

Will the Flitz erase that way-less-than-acceptable (read "ugly") spot directly above the cylinder release?

John

 

[Fishinfool]

Nooch450 - I recently bought a new 29-10, 4 inch "Classic". Wanted a blued model 29 I could carry in the woods without having to worry about the finish like I do my dash-2 guns.

Mine had a decent polish, but upon close inspection, in good light, you can see the finish application is uneven. And though its called "blued", I have read it is actually a black oxide finish(?).

I tried a little Mothers polish in a few hidden areas on mine, and it did slightly improve the shine, but did not remove the unevenness in the finish.

If it was my only model 29, and I wanted it perfect, I might not be happy, but for the purpose I bought it for, along with its very well fit build and accuracy, I am satisfied. I have already managed to put a decent scratch in it after I fell in a mud puddle with it in a hip holster, mud side down...

Larry

 

[Pizza Bob]

And as for those saying Hoppes damages bluing.... ahem- ok.

I didn't say it, S&W does in the brochure (owner's manual) they pack with every gun.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[Top Banana Charger]

Just a quick comment, not trying to HiJack thread.
I had the same trouble w my Classic 57 41mag. Milky barrel. I didn't purchase it this way. I didn't use Hoppes just Rem Oil w micro fiber cloth.
Purchased used unfired . With slight turn line I'd call that honest ware.
You guys are amazing truly. A little Flitz soft cloth soft touch it cleaned right up. Thank you so much for ur knowledge. Very greatfull
to you guys. I'm a member I don't contribute much .

 

[Rpg]

The new Smith finish is routinely problematic.

It's not bluing.

It's fragile and often unsatisfactory new, right out of the box.

I doubt home remedies will help: these things need to be completely redone at the factory on the lifetime warranty.

 

[marinevet]

I would suggest removing the grips and wiping the entire gun with a clean cloth, and a generous amount of Isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil on the surface of the gun before applying the Ren wax.