ks farmer
Member
I loaded up some laupa brass I acquired, and the cylinder won't turn. They are 98gr wadcutters. if I put one or two rounds the cylinder will turn. Can I get some needed advice. Thanks in advance
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Model 31 won't revolve
- Thread starter ks farmer
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Was brass new or used? Primers fully seated? Cases fully sized and seating fully in cylinder? Every time I have had trouble of this sort it was because I had overlooked some small detail.
It sounds like the cases are not seating all the way in the cylinder?
Some cases might have a bullet bulge? If the cylinder cycles or turns with no cases in
it and then hangs up after loading there has to be something sticking out
the rear or the front of the cylinder!
Otherwise there must be a problem with one or more of the charge holes
in the cylinder not allowing the casing to fully seat.
I think!
Ed
Some cases might have a bullet bulge? If the cylinder cycles or turns with no cases in
it and then hangs up after loading there has to be something sticking out
the rear or the front of the cylinder!
Otherwise there must be a problem with one or more of the charge holes
in the cylinder not allowing the casing to fully seat.
I think!
Ed
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
Check for a burr around the firing pin hole. If there is one, file or stone it flat.
Since the ammo fit into your cylinder.............
the problem is either the primer or the bullet OAL.
A visual of the front of the cylinder will quickly let you know if the bullet OAL is ok.
That leaves the back of the case as the other option.........
if the gun has not been fired.
Good luck.
the problem is either the primer or the bullet OAL.
A visual of the front of the cylinder will quickly let you know if the bullet OAL is ok.
That leaves the back of the case as the other option.........
if the gun has not been fired.
Good luck.
Were the casings sized all the way down to the rim? I had some trouble once because of that. Cartridges didn't seat all the way.
Robert
Robert
Ivan the Butcher
Member
Another idea: Use a dry tooth brush and scrub out beneath the ejector spider, all the unburnt powder the previous owner never cleaned out!
When I bought any J-Frame it was always a mess!
Ivan
When I bought any J-Frame it was always a mess!
Ivan
Things to consider:
Primers not fully seated.
Case heads too thick or insufficient headspacing between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield.
Bur around the firing pin hole.
Cases not fully resized and not fully seating in the chambers.
Debris under the extractor star.
Chambers fouled with debris/lead.
Cartridge OAL too long and bullets are hitting the forcing cone.
Primers not fully seated.
Case heads too thick or insufficient headspacing between the rear of the cylinder and the recoil shield.
Bur around the firing pin hole.
Cases not fully resized and not fully seating in the chambers.
Debris under the extractor star.
Chambers fouled with debris/lead.
Cartridge OAL too long and bullets are hitting the forcing cone.
Paul in Nevada
Member
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Chuck a 38 cal nylon bore brush in your drill and hog out the chambers with your favorite solvent.
Pull the cylinder from the frame and clean everything. My guess you have an extractor that's binding. OAL might be too long but that shouldn't be the problem if you measure it using the bullet load manual data. I've experienced that in a 625 from bullet creep. They pull bullets very well.
Just my 0.02
Just my 0.02
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My loads chamber very well in my other 31 the cartiage rim mikes ok so does the oal these are wad cutters no burr on bushing bought this used and never fired it. Should it go back to S&W or is there a pistol smith on this forum I am in Wichita ks. I have a table at the chisiom trail show.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
OK, so you never fired the gun. Is it possible the previous owner sole the gun because it has a problem?
Do you have any other ammo to try in that gun? Do you have another gun to try those reloads in?
Just a few thoughts...
Green Frog
Member
My free advice, worth every penny you pay for it:
First, unload the gun.
Second do as others have suggested and clean thoroughly, especially under under the extractor star.
Third, dry fire the empty gun. If this works go to Step Four, if not, go to Step Five. Contrary to "established wisdom" occasional dry firing should not harm an otherwise sound S&W center fire revolver.
Fourth, load gun with snap caps or empty cases and check for proper cycling. If this works, cleaning was all you needed. Take your revolver to the range, load, fire, repeat. Enjoy!
Fifth, if you are comfortable doing so, take off side plate, clean inside and check for broken, damaged, or missing parts. If all is well at this point apply a tiny amount of oil to friction points, reassemble properly, and go back to Steps Three and Four. If it is still not functioning properly or if you don't feel comfortably working inside of the gun yourself, you need to see a competent gunsmith, preferably local. Do not send it to S&W as they won't work on it… too old! If you don't know a local gunsmith in Witchita, ask around at the next gun show where you're set up. I bet another table holder will be able to provide a referral.
Good luck. The Models 30 and 31 are nice little guns and well worth the effort to make them right.
Froggie
First, unload the gun.
Second do as others have suggested and clean thoroughly, especially under under the extractor star.
Third, dry fire the empty gun. If this works go to Step Four, if not, go to Step Five. Contrary to "established wisdom" occasional dry firing should not harm an otherwise sound S&W center fire revolver.
Fourth, load gun with snap caps or empty cases and check for proper cycling. If this works, cleaning was all you needed. Take your revolver to the range, load, fire, repeat. Enjoy!
Fifth, if you are comfortable doing so, take off side plate, clean inside and check for broken, damaged, or missing parts. If all is well at this point apply a tiny amount of oil to friction points, reassemble properly, and go back to Steps Three and Four. If it is still not functioning properly or if you don't feel comfortably working inside of the gun yourself, you need to see a competent gunsmith, preferably local. Do not send it to S&W as they won't work on it… too old! If you don't know a local gunsmith in Witchita, ask around at the next gun show where you're set up. I bet another table holder will be able to provide a referral.
Good luck. The Models 30 and 31 are nice little guns and well worth the effort to make them right.
Froggie
This about says it all. Maybe mark the case heads and turn the cylinder by hand and see if you can tell where and what is rubbing. I would start by cleaning the cylinder chambers well and inspect the extractor parts (star, rod, etc.).
len917
Member
Run your finger over the primers-I'll bet they are creeping out. I've noticed lately that I have had creepout after priming and now I seat the primer then turn the case 1/4 turn and seat again to make sure it is properly seated, then when I have the plastic storage case filled with complete bullet, I run my finger over the cases again. Note - I've only had to do this recently since the primer shortage.
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