Model 36 with +P?

Bird76

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I have a model 36 that does not say +P rated on it. Is it still safe to shoot +P ammo through it? I have several boxes of Hornady XTP +P ammo and didn't want it to go waste!!!
SampWModel36_zpsad3d7a07.jpg
 
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Smith & Wesson has stated in the past that all their steel frame revolvers are safe with +P loads. That being said, they will wear things a bit faster. I carry Hornaday Critical Defense +P in mine. I don't shoot it a lot though.
 
Got a steel model 49 2" that I believe was made between 1971 and 1973. Was it rated for +P's or does S&W just say you can shoot them through any steel 2"?
 
Does it say Plus P on the side of the barrel? Many people believe it will do no harm if the gun has a model number on it.

Smith and Wesson will say not too, but IMHO it may cause accelerated wear at worse.
 
Anything that has a model number stamped inside the crane is fine to shoot +P loads.

Some will say that a +P round doesn't work all that great in a 2" barrel. Not enough tube length for the round to reach effective velocity.
 
Aside from all the other issues that have already been discussed in this thread, why would anyone expect to see a +P rating on a revolver that was made before +P ammo was on the market? You didn't identify your Model 36 by serial number, but there is a good chance it was made before anyone was marketing the so-called +P cartridges.
Jack

Added: I just looked again at your photo and it may be that your cylinder release has the angle cut on the top. If so, my comments do not apply to your gun, but I see this question stated this way a lot, referring to guns made in the '60s and '70s. It makes no sense.
 
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Gee, my Stoegers catalog from 1939 has every Colt 38 Spl rated for the S&W 38-44 High Speed. Nothing in the S&W section except for the HD, OD & .357 Magnum.
I still will fire the 38-44 load of 158 gr LSWC or Berry's(1150fps) in any of my S&W revolvers, just not many. Only for SD CC.
 
What is the difference between standard and plus P loads? In my loading manuals, it is often another 0.2 gr of Universal. This is about twice the normal measuring error in reloading. Not very much. I don't expect it will blow up my no dash M60 or my M67-1!

Best,
Rick
 
The Feds qualified with a mixture of +p and target wadcutters in 36s and 37s 35 years ago. +p was a 110 gr. HP. They noted no issues with either model. The report did not differentiate between models. FWIW.

Regards,

Tam 3
 
In one of the many threads on this question, a guy reported thousands of +P in his M36 with no issues.

Yet the J frames are small frames and more force is logically more wear. I imagine more cylinder endshake is the early sign of that wear.

Best to stay standard power as much as possible and go +P for required practice and critical uses, IMHO.

If I recall, the loading for +P in my manual is about 10% to 12% above maximum standard loads. If any manufacturer makes a gun that is safe at 100% standard but falls apart at 110%, I sure don't want that gun. They would either be making a really cheap gun or cutting the safety tolerances way too close and then the occaisional gun made on Monday morning or Friday afternoon that was sloppy would blow the hell up on someone even with a standard load!

Or did I just have too much coffee?
 
Please ignore the well intentioned advice above. No need to limit +P since... as I keep saying over and over... it is NOT loaded to high pressure.
 
My Model 60 (forgot the dash #, bought new 1974), with about 200 rounds through it, will not release the cylinder every time I shoot +p. Shoot "std" 38's no problem
 
Maybe the question should not be "can I shoot plus-P in my model 36", but rather "is there any advantage to shooting plus-P in my snubby?". I'm just not convinced that there's much velocity increase over standard ammo, esp out of a 2" revolver. A good standard presure soft lead SWC-HP load will do just as well, and probably cost less than the fancy plus-p stuff.
 
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