Model 360PD and Damage from Ammo

[filthyj24]

Instead of a 340 you could get a 360 M&P. Sell your PD, deal with the extra ounce and a half or so for .357 rated steel cylinder and not worry about what kind of ammo you feed it.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

By accident I found a 360 J.
It pretty well has the same frame but a SS cylinder.
It also has a red ramp sight.
I’m real careful cleaning this pistol.

The recently manufactured .357 M360J (not to be confused with the S/C alloy frame, black cylinder, .38 Spcl. 360J -thanks S&W- that they had a special run off about 12-15 yrs ago) with it's brite polished S/S cylinder can be scrubbed to your heart's content.

They're tuff as they come.

I have one & it's about 15 oz.

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[teletech]

2) Instead of getting another snubby, I am going to purchase a S&W Model 19 - I have stockpiled a bunch of .357 ammo and I want to have fun with it, without worrying about damaging the gun.

I wish I could tell you that your 19 will be trouble and worry free but this is an earlier example of a gun made as small and light as the technology of the time would allow and they are somewhat known for cracked forcing cones at the 6-o-clock position. It seems to mostly be a problem with lightweight bullets but of course there are endless threads about how much of a problem is it really so I'll just mention that it's a thing that some people experience and if you want a .357 that you really don't have to worry about you want to find an older model 27. Those things are built like tanks and will just plain survive. I gather those fancy new (anything invented after I was like 10) L-frame guns are very sturdy as well. You could also go brand-trator and buy an MR-73.
I've had one model 19 that I dearly loved die as a result of a bulged barrel and subsequent cracked frame from the replacement not being installed properly, but that wasn't the fault of the gun or .357 ammo but rather a inattentive shooter and bad reload followed by a inexperienced 'smith. As a result I don't tend to lend out guns I really like and go a little easy on my 19s.

 

[stansdds]

I wish I could tell you that your 19 will be trouble and worry free but this is an earlier example of a gun made as small and light as the technology of the time would allow and they are somewhat known for cracked forcing cones at the 6-o-clock position. It seems to mostly be a problem with lightweight bullets but of course there are endless threads about how much of a problem is it really so I'll just mention that it's a thing that some people experience and if you want a .357 that you really don't have to worry about you want to find an older model 27. Those things are built like tanks and will just plain survive. I gather those fancy new (anything invented after I was like 10) L-frame guns are very sturdy as well. You could also go brand-trator and buy an MR-73.
I've had one model 19 that I dearly loved die as a result of a bulged barrel and subsequent cracked frame from the replacement not being installed properly, but that wasn't the fault of the gun or .357 ammo but rather a inattentive shooter and bad reload followed by a inexperienced 'smith. As a result I don't tend to lend out guns I really like and go a little easy on my 19s.

Not really true of the current production Model 19 and 66. S&W has redesigned them, eliminating the thin spot on the barrel extension, also moving the front cylinder lock from the extractor rod to the crane. It is a vastly better lock system and is likely to be a far more durable 357 Magnum revolver.

 

[psquarejr]

As a fan of the 38 Special and 357 Mag, I have followed threads and opinions of the loadings, I am no expert, just a fan. My opinion, stick with the heavier bullets, I prefer and get great accuracy from 158gr bullets in my revolvers. I reload, so I listen to comments and opinions from those who are more knowledgeable than I. Lighter bullets with most powders will cause the issues you mention. I will use nothing lighter than 125gr bullet in a 38spec standard loading, not with +P. 158gr bullet only for 357mag and +P if and when I load +P. I rarely do +P loadings since I personally do not see the advantage in a 38 spec. If I want more power, I step up to a 357 revolver. My revolver of choice to carry is my PC 386PD. No issues at all with the revolver. I will post pics when I get a chance.

 

[uncleted327]

You could always get a 360FDE and not worry about the titanium issue. The small difference in weight won't really be noticeable. However those saying to switch to an all steel gun and calling the difference only a "few" onces...right. One is a brick in a pocket and the other disappears. No comparison.

 

[bigfatty]

Why would you carry a gun that spits out hot lead at your face? At least you have eye pro at the range ...

I'm just sayin'.

 

[Alan0354]

Hi
I am new here. I am interested in either 340PD or 360PD. I already have Model 66. I only want to shoot 38special, max is +P. will I have problem with cylinder wearing out?


Is there an option to get the regular steel cylinder with Scandium frame? Is steel cylinder better? I have no problem shooting my Model 66. It's just too heavy.

 

[chuck perry]

Why not try a new coating on the titanium cylinder, like hard chrome. I would think hard chrome would prevent the issue you're seeing.

Sent from my moto g stylus 5G using Tapatalk

 

[Beju]

Hi
I am new here. I am interested in either 340PD or 360PD. I already have Model 66. I only want to shoot 38special, max is +P. will I have problem with cylinder wearing out?


Is there an option to get the regular steel cylinder with Scandium frame? Is steel cylinder better? I have no problem shooting my Model 66. It's just too heavy.

If you're fine with DAO, the M&P 340 (SKU: 103072) has a scandium frame and steel cylinder. Going rate is about $850. Weight comes in-between the scandium frame/titanium cylinder 340/360PD and the aluminum frame/steel cylinder Airweights at 13.8 oz.

The steel cylinder being "better" is a matter of priorities. You might want the lightest revolver possible, in which case titanium is better. You might want slightly more weight to absorb a little more recoil, in which case steel is theoretically better.

Steel will also be more resistant to harsher cleaning methods. If you plan to shoot a lot of uncoated soft lead ammo, that's a plus.

 

[tgmr05]

Solvents strip the protective coating. When cleaning, make sure no solvent makes contact with the cylinder. A titanium cylinder with damaged coating will erode quickly across the front of the cylinder around the forcing cone when firing.

 

[halfmoonclip]

I've had a 340SC (what they used to be called) for 20 years. Originally got it as a hiking gun, with the first two chambers with snakeshot, the last 3 with GTFOM bear discouragers.
Current choice for those are Fiocchi 140 FMJTC, 1100'sec in a snub, and utterly no fun to shoot. Mostly, the 340 sees full charge wadcutters, not a bad choice for any snub.
Never have been fussy cleaning it, and wasn't even aware of the admonitions.
Also have a 986, which will doubtless see more shooting. We'll see how it holds up.
Moon

 

[Alan0354]

Solvents strip the protective coating. When cleaning, make sure no solvent makes contact with the cylinder. A titanium cylinder with damaged coating will erode quickly across the front of the cylinder around the forcing cone when firing.

What is really the problem with the titanium cylinder? Is it too weak to take the higher power rounds, or erode fast without protective coating. I am still trying to learn more to decide.


I have no intention to fire 357Mag, just 38+P if that. But if titanium erodes without protective coating, that's bad. Then seems the M&P is a much better choice.


That brings to another question. Is the M&P 340 safe and can last firing 357Mag rounds?


Thanks

 

[BLUEDOT37]

I am new here. I am interested in either 340PD or 360PD.
Is there an option to get the regular steel cylinder with Scandium frame?

There was a short run of the .357Mag 360J in 2016-2017. It had a Sc frame but Ss cylinder.

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