MODEL 37 AND +P LOADS

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The factory will probably tell you that the older ones are not. My experience is that if you put a few (<25/yr) downrange you will not hurt it.
 
My 37 (from the 70s) suffered a cracked frame. It was in like new condition, had obviously been fired little, if at all, and the crack occurred in that part of the frame where the barrel screws in. S&W replaced the gun. There are probably some Internet warriors who claim to have fired thousands of +P loads through these revolvers, but that doesn't make such practices sound.
 
My 37 (from the 70s) suffered a cracked frame. It was in like new condition, had obviously been fired little, if at all, and the crack occurred in that part of the frame where the barrel screws in. S&W replaced the gun. There are probably some Internet warriors who claim to have fired thousands of +P loads through these revolvers, but that doesn't make such practices sound.

true, but no more than saying that your gun's cracked frame was caused by such.
 
I can tell you from personal experience that they don't like +P+ loads... S&W tightened up ours but ever since I've restricted it to standard velocity loads for practice. I do carry the FBI loads in airweights but that's it.
 
I would restrict +P use in a model 37 to rare/emergency firing only. Having said that, there is no set definition for .38 +P except "higher than standard pressure" You can find ammo labeled as such ranging from 125 gr at 900 fps to 158 gr at 1000 fps out of a 2" barrel. No fair guessing which will be harder on the gun.
 
All I can say for sure is that S&W has told me that my 37-2 -- one of the "overrun" guns from a few years back with no lock, factory-bobbed hammer and pre-magnum-style frame -- is +P-rated. I have fired a lot of +P factory and hand loads, and it still locks up like new.
 
>there is no set definition for .38 +P except "higher than standard pressure"

There are, indeed, SAAMI specs for .38 +P. It's "+P+" that means, "God-only-knows-what-pressure".
 
>there is no set definition for .38 +P except "higher than standard pressure"

There are, indeed, SAAMI specs for .38 +P. It's "+P+" that means, "God-only-knows-what-pressure".

True...the point I was trying to make (maybe not clearly enough) is that there must be a fairly wide range of +P. Call it +P light to +P heavy?
 
+P is loaded to 18,000 PSI. Max for the caliber is 21,500. This seems to indicate that +P is actually loaded well below max pressure and my experience is that it is a fairly mild load.

Any gun that cracks the frame with factory ammo is defective.
 
First, let me apologize and say that I don't have an informed answer to your question.

Now, if you really want to shoot .38spl +P out of a Airweight J frame, may I suggest that you purchase one of the current no-lock Model 442's that are now on the market. They can usually be found for less that $400.

The Model 442 Pro series does not have the internal lock and it is built on the J magnum frame. They are rated for +P ammunition and are marked as such on the barrel.

S&W also makes a Model 642 Pro series which is stainless and silver. But, since you asked about the Model 37, I thought you would be more interested in the Model 442 which is blued/black.
 
I went with the Federal Nyclads.
I take the no +p caution to heart, cause with my luck, mine will be the one that breaks. ;)
 
this is true

+P is loaded to 18,000 PSI. Max for the caliber is 21,500. This seems to indicate that +P is actually loaded well below max pressure and my experience is that it is a fairly mild load.

Any gun that cracks the frame with factory ammo is defective.
I have a 1968 model 37 airweight. It is a beater that has been around the block:p. I shoot a lot and it loves the +P's. Since it is 43 years old and been shot a lot I figger +P's would have broke it or loosened it up by now. It still locks up tight and is surprisingly accurate for a short barreled revolver. Got to agree with SaxonPig on this one. The factory +P's, I think, ain't as hot as the early standard pressure loads. I have even heard of people who were reluctant to shoot a .38 +P in a .357 magnum K frame.:eek:.....WOW!
Peace,
gordon
 
I recently bought a Model 37-no dash in excellent condition. I went to the range a few weeks back and shot 60 rounds of powder puff wadcutter loads. While cleaning the gun afterwards, I saw that the frame had cracked below the barrel, just as rockquarry described earlier in this thread.

Since it's 50 years old, I'm going to part it out, cut up the frame, and call stick with either newer Airweights or steel frames. Don't want to throw good money after bad.

Best of luck with yours. I took a chance and came up empty.
 
FWIW I shoot light loads or the factory type loads in my 30 year old and older revolvers. I have a 37 that my Dad bought new in 1967, and only shoot factory 158 grain specials in it. It may still crack someday, but not because I over stressed it with +P or +P+ loads.

I have a 640-1 and a new Model 40, and both are rated for the hotter loads. There are still plenty of non IL "J" frames being made, best to shoot the peppy loads in those.
 
I prefer the older S&W's, and my 37 gets carried daily. I practice with standard 38's, but run a few 125g +P's through it now and then. It is an accurate little gun and has had no problems.
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