Model 41 grips

Targetfan

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I purchased a model 41, to complete my collection, two months ago, based on the good comments I read about it.
I am puzzled with the factory installed grip. I understand it is an ambidextrous grip with a thumb rest on both sides. I shoot one handed with my right hand and the thumb rest protrudes between the knuckles of my index and second finger causing a strong discomfort. When I hold the grip the gun points to the left, with a pressure under my index resulting in systematic trigger finger movement to the left.

I have ergonomic medium size grips from Whalter, Morini, Unique, Steyer and Toz on some of my other guns and it is the first time I encounter that problem.

Does anybody encounter that problem, and what solution are you using?
 
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I feel no such discomfort, have been shooting Model 41s since the mid-70's.

As you allude, your finger must have straight back pressure on the trigger when it breaks. To that end, if the grips don't suit you, I'd have no problem getting a second set and working them over with a file until they felt right.

I didn't have to do that with the Model 41, but I've done I to the grips on a Model 57 and Model 27, and never looked back:

GunsThxgiving2011017.jpg
 
Hogue makes a 'dark woood' RH target grip that is an excellent fit for most shooters. Four people have tried my M41. They didn't know which was better, the gun or the grip. All agreed the Hogue grip was much better than the factory grip.
 
I have a hard time shooting the M41 with stock grips, including my much reworked originals.
At least four makers are currently producing anatomical grips for the M41;
Randall Fung,
Harretts,
nill-griffe’
& Rink
Of the four I like the Rink grips the best, Fung is a close second but does not fit my hand quite as well.
 
I have a current production 41 that I have used for a few years with Herrett H-41 Grips. These are the ones that are fully checkered from top to bottom and are left or right hand usable. I supplement the checkering with a strip of skate board tape on the back strap. My setup is identical to the pictures on the cover of the old Gil Hebard catalog.

The current factory grips are too thick for my hand, and I see a significant difference between them and the older style, slightly smaller walnut (?) that was checkered completely around to the seam at the back, whereas the newer actually has two checkered panels and a smooth back.

Another solution you might look at are the Herrett Nationals, specifically made right or left handed, they have a flared adjustable heel piece.
 
Altomont also makes a decent grip for the M41 or M46. I have a set done in Rosewood on my 46 at the moment. They are quite good actually altho slightly thicker then the factory issued ones.
 
Thanks for the references.
Looking at the various grips that you referred to me, I believe that removing the trigger finger side thumb rest should made my stock grip quite similar to these anatomical grips, except for the palm rest.
I will try to get a natural alignment for my hand size.

I will post the results in a few days.
 
I'm partial to the Herrett flat housing trainers that mimic the grips of a 1911. I do a lot of shooting with a Colt Gold Cup and I can easily transition back and forth between the two, basically using the same hold.




Added:

For those of you PM'ing about the barrel, it is a S&W Factory 5.5" barrel I had vented by EWK Arms , the cost was very reasonable at the time (6/2012) and included rebluing of the barrel which as you can see matched the slide very nicely.



 
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Herrett M41 grips

Not to highjack the thread, but are those flat sided Herrett grips for the M41 still readily available?
 
I've had Tulipwood Hogues on my 41 for awhile and like them quite well. You can get them with or without the thumbrest and can get one on either side. They are bit thicker and more handfilling than the originals.


IMG_8245_zpsb204d33c.jpg


IMG_8243_zpsfc6c0b4c.jpg
 
Not to highjack the thread, but are those flat sided Herrett grips for the M41 still readily available?

You can order them directly from herretts, for around $95 and I don't know what the current turn around time is.

Bullseye Gear sells them cheaper, but they are out of stock.

The next best thing would be keep an eye out for a set on the usual online auction sites... IIRC that's where I got my set, which I customized by adding the S&W monogram to the grip and refinishing them.

You could also post a WTB (Want to Buy) here on the forum.
 
I've tried many types of "target" grips on a variety of high end match target pistols; Nill, Rink, Fung, Herret, Stile, and on and on. My favorites are by Albert Vitarbo.
154167766.jpg
 
Grip remodeling results.

I finally completed my grip modifications and I am pleased with the result. Now the grip is comfortable and I get consistent sights alignment eyes closed. At the range, the trigger finger deviations are no longer noticeable with circular group dispersion.

I have removed the right side thumb rest, remodeled the upper area to prevent contact with the trigger finger and removed material in the upper right rear area to shift my natural sight alignment to the right. Filing the wood to get the proper shape was relatively easy. These modifications works well for medium size hands like mine.

Refinishing the grip was more time consuming since the original grip was finished with a clear varnish that I had to strip before refinishing with oil.

I attached a few photos to illustrate the new shape.
 

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Nice work Targetfan...What did you use to remove the wood? Just sanded down by hand? How did you remove original finish? I am looking to do something similar to my factory grips. Any tips or lessons learned would be appreciated.
 
Working tips

I used a wood rasp to remove the top of the thumb rest and finished the curved shapes with small files (see photo). Considering the amount of wood to be removed I do not recommend the use of motorised tools like a Dremel, you can save a few minutes but it is much more difficult to model the shape and you risk to make dents.
Remove the pressure points of your trigger finger on the side, then check your grip natural angle (sights aligned, eyes closed), removing material in the upper back side area will shift your aiming point to the right. For sights alignment remove small amount of material at a time and check often. Protect checkering with masking tape while filing.
Once you are satisfied with the shape, you remove the varnish with a paint stripper preferably water soluble (a few coats are necessary) incomplete stripping will produce unaesthetically uneven wood color. Use a tooth brush so you do not damage the checkering.
Once rinsed and dryed, remove file marks with fine wood sand paper (grit 80-120) and polish with wet or dry car paint sandpaper wetted with your favorite wood finish oil (linseed, tung) grit 320-400 for matte finish and complete with grit 1000 if you want a glossy finish. A few coats of oil will saturate the wood and will provide a nice finish. I use the end of a tooth brush handle to hold the sand paper; get one that is covered with silicon, it does not slip on the sand paper back and produce an even finish.

I added a photo of the rasp, files and tooth brush. The most useful file is the round/flat (second from left). Hope this help you. Have fun with your mods.
 

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