Model 48 cylinder release issue

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Timberpigeon

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I have a 4 screw model 48 that has an issue with the cylinder release. Sometimes it locks shut and won't open, sometimes when open it won't lock shut. Does anyone have any suggestion as to what is causing this and how to fix it? Much appreciated.
 
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My guess is the ejector rod has loosened on the cylinder which has increased its length long enough to cause difficulty opening...Tighten it to finger tightness and report back...;)...Ben
 
Truckman beat me to it. Some time around 1959 I believe (someone else will have a more exact date) S&W switched threads on the ejector rod to help with this issue. A little tiny drop of silicone on the threads will help keep it from coming loose.
 
Does this model have REVERSE threads on the ejector rod... many of my S&Ws need to be turned in the opposite direction of normal threads.

J.
 
With the cylinder opened, does the thumb piece (cylinder release) itself move freely? (It will only move toward the rear when the cylinder is open) If not, you may need to do a thorough cleaning and lube under the side plate. In addition to making sure the ejector rod is snug, check the center pin that runs through the cylinder to be sure it's not binding. An occasional small (tiny) drop of oil on both ends of the pin can help keep it moving freely.

Mark
 
Another thing many forget to check is the front lug. They can get gummed up and sticky. Some brake cleaner work it giving a shot every little bit. The center pin can also become gummed up. Same deal unless you want to do a tear down.

A loose rod is often the cause alright, but the whole thing need to work right. 4 Springs, one for lug, one on center pin one on rod itself, another behind thumb piece bolt. The extractor closing all the way (junk under it) A lot of little parts need to move right for the cylinder to open and close smoothly.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Now my issue is the cylinder won't swing open at all. When I cock the hammer slightly the cylinder will spin freely, but I can't get it to swing open. Any thoughts ?
 
I did get cylinder open. Ejector rod appears very tight. I think Wheelgun is right, I took the thumb piece off and it was not freely moving forward. I had to put a lot of pressure on it but then it moved forward and cylinder opened. I have sprayed a good bit of G96 in there but still doesn't seem to move the way it should. When I close the cylinder it doesn't lock into place and I can see the thumb latch isn't moving back the way it should. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
When I swing the cylinder shut it is not latching into place and thus the hammer won't pull back
 
Timberpigeon said:
I did get cylinder open. Ejector rod appears very tight. I think Wheelgun is right, I took the thumb piece off and it was not freely moving forward. I had to put a lot of pressure on it but then it moved forward and cylinder opened. I have sprayed a good bit of G96 in there but still doesn't seem to move the way it should. When I close the cylinder it doesn't lock into place and I can see the thumb latch isn't moving back the way it should. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Click to expand...


Open the cylinder and then move the release back and forth, there is a tiny spring and pin in the rear of the release bar, it's a spot that is prone to dirt and debris, may be time for a good disassembly and cleaning.
 
Given your description, it needs cleaning. I've got a M48-4 that was doing the same thing, the cylinder release latch was sticking, not moving back when the cylinder closed, and hanging up the hammer. I removed the side plate and disassembled the action, thoroughly cleaned everything and reassembled it, runs like a new gun. If your revolver has been a safe queen, or not well-maintained, old oil and dirt will jam up the close tolerances and make things sticky.

If you decide to clean it yourself, watch some videos on S&W disassembly and cleaning, don't go prying on stuff. I don't know how familiar you are with working on a revolver.
 
Thanks Hair Trigger. That's my concern, although I own quite a few SW revolvers, I've never taken a side plate off. Certainly don't want to mess things up worse….
 
Some times I've seen a thumb latch hit the recoil shield. I shortened the front of it slightly.

Gunk in the action or a worn bolt tip can be the reason the bolt does not go forward enough to be flush with the recoil shield.

Make sure:
1. the front locking bolt has enough forward travel or is not too long.
2. the ctr pin is not too short to fully disengage the front locking bolt out of the extractor rod.

I would also check that the ctr pin can be pushed forward flush with the extractor star with the cyl closed by pushing it forward from inside the side plate to confirm.
 
Timberpigeon said:
... although I own quite a few SW revolvers, I've never taken a side plate off...
Click to expand...

Having the proper size screwdrivers for the side plate screws is important to keep from damaging the screw heads. Brownell's is probably the best source for most gunsmithing tools. Pretty sure they have magnetic bit sets sized specifically for S&W revolvers.

Once you've got the right size drivers, it would be a good idea to practice taking the side plate off of one that already has a few bumps and bruises than on the newest looking one you have.

In addition to the excellent video in the link posted above by Hondo44, there are several other good videos on Youtube with directions for removing the side plates on S&W revolvers.

Mark
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I will certainly watch the video before I take the side plate of. Regarding the comment about "proper screwdriver". Will one that comes with an old N frame, in the box, work, or do I need one smaller than that? Thanks
 
wheelgun610 said:
Having the proper size screwdrivers for the side plate screws is important to keep from damaging the screw heads. Brownell's is probably the best source for most gunsmithing tools. Pretty sure they have magnetic bit sets sized specifically for S&W revolvers.

Once you've got the right size drivers, it would be a good idea to practice taking the side plate off of one that already has a few bumps and bruises than on the newest looking one you have.

In addition to the excellent video in the link posted above by Hondo44, there are several other good videos on Youtube with directions for removing the side plates on S&W revolvers.

Mark
Click to expand...

Brownell's does have a 4 bit magnetic screwdriver set that hollow ground and S&W specific
 
Timberpigeon said:
Thanks for all the help guys. I will certainly watch the video before I take the side plate of. Regarding the comment about "proper screwdriver". Will one that comes with an old N frame, in the box, work, or do I need one smaller than that? Thanks
Click to expand...

I believe you are referring to the sight adjustment tool. DO NOT USE THAT TO REMOVE SIDEPLATE SCREWS.
 
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