Model 48 question

[cjcutter1]

Took my new classic 48-7 outback today and shot approximately 75 rounds after a few cylinders I was starting to get binding rounds not seating and heavy trigger pull on a couple chambers. I know this revolver can have issues with unburned powder so I was mindful to do my best to clear under the star extractor by wiping off with finger. Which did help but then on two of six chambers trigger pull was almost impossible. CCI minimags and Winchester 40gr superx was ammo. When cleaned and dryfired no issues with no spent or snap caps. This gun was a headache from minute I bought new been back to S&W twice. Run out first and failure to fire firing pin to short. Seemed to have remedied those issues. Thanks for help.

 

[series guy]

When it starts binding up unload the gun and closely examine the face of the cylinder. If your gun has a tight barrel/cylinder gap the carbon build up on the face of the cylinder can drag on the barrel and tie up the gun. It will look like scratches on the face of the cylinder. If this is the case opening the gap by a few thousandths will solve the problem.

 

[cjcutter1]

When it starts binding up unload the gun and closely examine the face of the cylinder. If your gun has a tight barrel/cylinder gap the carbon build up on the face of the cylinder can drag on the barrel and tie up the gun. It will look like scratches on the face of the cylinder. If this is the case opening the gap by a few thousandths will solve the problem.

Didn't notice any abnormal wear on recoil shield/or hand. Nothing on cylinder face looked off rod was tight screws tight cylinder opened closed fine no wobble. Just trigger extremely hard to pull in double action on one or two chambers. After I cleaned I inserted spent brass into cylinder and dry fired in both double action and single action was fine other then left residue (brass shavings) in throat and in cylinder holes I cleaned again after removing.

 

[Hair Trigger]

Check to see if it is the action, or the cylinder that is binding. With the cylinder loaded and closed, pull back on the hammer just far enough to retract the cylinder stop, then rotate the cylinder with your other hand. If the cylinder rotates freely with njo drag, then the action is binding somehow. If the cylinder is dificult to turn by hand in this configuration, don't force the action to shoot it, you will damage the hand, if it isn't already bent. Does the gun time properly when you shoot it in double action?

 

[bearman49709]

The model 48 is a .22WMR, stop using .22LR in it and that may take care of your problems.

 

[cjcutter1]

The model 48 is a .22WMR, stop using .22LR in it and that may take care of your problems.

Wow who'd of though that's the issue. You're a genius sir. Apreciate the help. Clearly a typo.

 

[Hair Trigger]

The model 48 is a .22WMR, stop using .22LR in it and that may take care of your problems.

I never noticed what he said about the ammo type, and I have a M48-4. Great catch.

 

[SuperMan]

He probably meant MaxiMags, not MiniMags...

It is usually unburned powder under the star...I always carry a M16 style double ended cleaning brush with me and clean under the star every few cylinder full.

As said above, if you are getting drag on just two chambers it is possible your crane/cylinder is slightly out of alignment. Get some feeler gauges and check each of the chambers at the flashgap and headspace.

.22 Magnums in any S&W DA revolver has unfortunately been problematic since it was first chambered in these guns in the late 1950s... They were made to be hunted with not a plinker...

Bob

 

[Fishinfool]

For a long time, there has been a known issue of S&W boring their .22 rimfire chambers on the tight side in J and K frame revolvers. These tight chambers make fully inserting a loaded round into the chamber difficult on some guns, and it is only compounded as the gun / chamber begin to foul. This causes loaded rounds to seem to be fully chambered when they are not, resulting in the loaded rounds rims to drag on the recoil shield / breach face, resulting in a binding action.

This may or may not be the issue with your revolver? I know it is on my model 18 and K-22. Keeping the chambers clean helps, using a standard chamber finishing reamer is the cure.

Something to look at anyway.

Larry

 

[cjcutter1]

Appreciate the feedback I'll load the cylinder and check. I'm definitely not shooting 22lr in a 48. Yes maximags 40gr and Wincester 40gr 22WMR.

 

[cjcutter1]

Cylinder gap seems consistent no runout all screws are tight. When loaded with live rounds cylinder spins free (clean revolver) no hangups. Timing seems good when dryfired with snapcaps and no binding of cylinder or trigger. I'm thinking just the dirty revolver was issue. Apparently not a high volume plinking revolver as stated or plan on cleaning frequently ever few cylinders,appreciate the feedback.

 

[MJK-MOD-547]

If it makes the OP feel any better, I have a M-48-4, a M-650 and a M-651 and they all do the same thing.
I do what the others have said, I keep em clean while shooting at the range.
Another thing I like to do is spray them with OTIS DRY LUBE. The dry lube seems to keep most of the carbon and non burnt powder from sticking and I get in more shots before I have to stop.