Model 60 Bobbed hammer

[NRA RSO]

I have an early 80's model 60 that I would like to install a bobbed hammer on.

Numeric Arms lists one (NYCPD) but has no stock.

Anyone know where I can buy one?

Thanks
NRA RSO

 

[Silver-Fox]

Why not just cut, sand & polish the one you have ?

 

[NRA RSO]

Cut & Finish

This is surly doable, but as it is a Model 60, no -1, -2 etc. The Hammer and Trigger are not stainless, but finished to look like stainless (Never understood why S&W did it this way. They corrected this in the -2's)

I figure that it would be cheaper to buy one ready to drop in.

Thanks

NRA RSO

 

[H Richard]

It's not a difficult job, and while you have the hammer out for bobbing, take the trigger out and grind/polish out all the serrations. Since you will be using the 60 only double action once the hammer is bobbed, you will find the smooth trigger is much more comfortable to shoot.

 

[NRA RSO]

Thanks,

I'll keep this in mind.

NRA RSO

 

[Wee Hooker]

S&W won't sell you one but they will fit one if you like. The older mod 60's are very easy to do so it seems a shame to drop $100+ in parts, shipping/services. I'd just bob the one you have (or buy another and bob that one.) It really is a 1/2 hr job (total) if you have a dremmel tool.
Search "bob" or "bobbed" on this and the revolver forums for details.

 

[tyler4656]

Hammer

If you still need one shoot me an email I have 100's of smith hammers.

 

[rangemeister]

Hammers

Tyler, your PM are full, can you contact me? PM? Tanks

 

[shouldazagged]

I had the trigger bob and the trigger face smoothed and radiused years ago on a Rossi 88 clone of the 60. Made a big difference. But if you can, why not keep the 60 as it is and get a 640? I've carried one daily for years and love it.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

NRA RSO:

I prefer airweight J-frames, such as the Model 642, Model 38, or Model 638 for pocket carry. The Model 60, at least for me , does not work well in my front pants pocket. I'm really not much of a fan of the bobbed hammer as that is one of the key elements addressing retention in a holster. I've installed a hammer from a Model 38 in my Model 60-7 that I think offers a good compromise in decreasing the likelihood of getting it caught on clothing, and still having a hammer available for weapons retention, as well as having the ability to make a SA shot if need be. My attached photos are actually out of order. If you switch the sequence of the photos (below), you'll have the "before" and "after" photos for the Model 60.

Regards,

Dave

 

[shawn mccarver]

I have an early 80's model 60 that I would like to install a bobbed hammer on.

Numeric Arms lists one (NYCPD) but has no stock.

Anyone know where I can buy one?

Thanks
NRA RSO

The factory will do it properly for you for a small charge, or if you want to keep your original hammer stock, just have them replace it with a DAO hammer or have them bob the spur off of a replacement hammer and return your original in case you want to return the revolver to its original condition.

 

[jake1956]

The factory will do it properly for you for a small charge, or if you want to keep your original hammer stock, just have them replace it with a DAO hammer or have them bob the spur off of a replacement hammer and return your original in case you want to return the revolver to its original condition.

I found stainless steel factory bobbed hammer on gun broker and installed it with no problem. I have a question though.

I thought I would still be able to set the hammer back if I wanted to take a SA shot. But this is not the case. The boobed hammer will not stay in the cocked position.

I examined them closely and other than the lack of a hammer can see not difference.

I thought perhaps I did something wrong with my assembly but when I put the original hammer back in, I retain the ability to cock it for a SA shot. Not so with the factory bobbed hammer.

What am I missing?

 

[KLYDE]

Factory bobbed hammers will be modified for double action only for safety and liability reasons. Attempting to decock a spurless hammer from single action position is a dangerous undertaking. A home bobbed hammer can be left alone to retain the single action capability.

 

[jake1956]

That makes sense. I was just wondering what the physical differences between the hammers is. When looking at them side by side the only difference I can see is the obvious lack of a hammer on the bobbed one.

 

[Muley Gil]

This is surly doable, but as it is a Model 60, no -1, -2 etc. The Hammer and Trigger are not stainless, but finished to look like stainless (Never understood why S&W did it this way. They corrected this in the -2's)

I figure that it would be cheaper to buy one ready to drop in.

Thanks

NRA RSO

S&W had problems with stainless hammers and triggers being too soft, so they went to flash chromed carbon steel.

 

[chuck86]

If you remove the hammer spur, will that affect reliability, since you have reduced hammer mass?

 

[tomcatt51]

If you remove the hammer pur, will that affect reliability, since you have reduced hammer mass?

NO. On the CF revolvers ignition improves with bobbed or otherwise lightened hammers.

 

[KLYDE]

That makes sense. I was just wondering what the physical differences between the hammers is. When looking at them side by side the only difference I can see is the obvious lack of a hammer on the bobbed one.

At the bottom of the hammer the single cock notch will be ground off. This will prevent single action cocking. I had this M10-7 bobbed and DAO at the Factory. Totally reliable. I traded it to a local member for a 3" M65. I bought a Factory bobbed DAO hammer to install on the M65 but recently purchased a Factory bobbed DAO Ruger SP 101. I think I'll keep the K frames safe and beat up the Ruger.

 

[chuck86]

NO. On the CF revolvers ignition improves with bobbed or otherwise lightened hammers.

This is why I love this forum. You can ask a question and get a sound, polite answer.

Thanks Tomcatt51.

I don't post a lot, but I read the forum religiously.