Model 60 Broke - Ideas, Anyone?

[TAROMAN]

Model 60 (no dash). I purchased this one new in 1974, and its been flawless ever since. Only revolver I have ever carried.

At the range today, firing 158gr reloads (Trail Boss, 650 fps). Had fired maybe 30 rounds when, after two shots, it locked up tighter than a tick. Quick check, B/C gap good, no pulled bullets. All cases that I could get to wiggled free from the recoil shield. Could not open the cylinder. Wait a minute - the cylinder release is all the way forward. Pulled it back and I was able to cock and fire, so at least was able to fire the last 3.

Obviously, something in the cylinder release mechanism has broken. So much for revolver reliability, glad I wasn't in a gunfight!

Seriously, any suggestions as to how I should proceed (other than shipping it to S&W), which I might do anyhow, now that all rounds are fired.

thanks,

Image taken "before" the incident.

 

[scooter123]

I would suspect one of 2 causes. One is a broken spring and the front lock or a crudded up lock pin. Second would be a broken spring for the center pin in the ejector rod assembly, or that is all crudded up. Both should be fairly easy to fix, however I haven't ever had to replace a spring on the front lock. As for the ejector rod assembly, it's pretty simple, unscrew the ejector rod from the extractor and replace the bad spring.

As for determing what's what, open the cylinder and push on the center pin in the middle of the extractor. If you don't feel any tension, that's your problem. For the front lock, push it with a fingernail and see if you feel any tension. If no tension, that's your problem.

Note, on either item if you feel tension but it's also sticky, a simple cleaning will probably resolve the problem, so start there first.

Also, if you do have to unscrew the ejector rod, make sure to load the cylinder with at least 3 fired cases. This will protect the locating pins for the extractor when you apply enough torque to free it. BTW, don't use snap caps or unfired rounds, they don't fit tight enough. Also remember on your gun will have left hand threads, which means you rotate it clockwise to unscrew it. I've found that an old piece of leather from a worn out belt folded over the knurling and grasped with pliers works quite well for freeing the ejector rod.

As for the comment about reliability, your gun after all is 26 years old. After that amount of time I wouldn't be complaing about having to do a bit of cleaning or replacing a couple of small springs.

 

[TAROMAN]

It was the end of cylinder latch (bolt) itself that snapped off:

 

[cp1969]

I started to say, "Aha! MIM parts!" but that isn't one.

How'd you get it open?

 

[Alpha426]

Broken Pivot on Bolt

The pivot is probably broken off and rattling around inside the gun. To get the cylinder open (make sure there are no live rounds) you need to open the side plate and remove the hammer. Once that's out, you will be able to see the bolt (the part attached to the thumbpiece). If you slide the thumbpiece to the rear, you'll see that the pivot is broken off and fallen out of the gun by now. Use a small punch and push the punch into the hole that goes thru the breech face. You should be able to open the cylinder at this point. You'll need to replace the bolt which is easy to do.
Good luck.

 

[Rule 303]

I've seen lots of parts break in a S&W Revolver, but never the
bolt break like that. I'd send it back to S&W to see what they say. I wonder if it was metal fatigue or a flaw in the metal.

Rule 303

 

[TAROMAN]

I started to say, "Aha! MIM parts!" but that isn't one.

How'd you get it open?

Maybe I NEED a MIM part!

I really don't know my S&W small parts nomenclature. I guess the proper name is "bolt"?

Anyhow, I removed the sideplate. The broken off end was just laying there. Then I used an angle scribe to depress the locking pin to release the cylinder and clear the weapon.

Looked on Brownells and Midway. No joy either place. Numrich has it for $44.85. Ouch!

I guess is the part that "never" breaks.

 

[cp1969]

I would check with S&W first before I paid that much to Numrich. I would hope S&W would give you one on the house. Those things aren't supposed to break. That is probably one of the least-stressed parts in the gun.

 

[TAROMAN]

I would check with S&W first before I paid that much to Numrich. I would hope S&W would give you one on the house. Those things aren't supposed to break. That is probably one of the least-stressed parts in the gun.

Thanks. Although I have been shooting S&Ws for almost 40 years, I have never contacted the factory for anything before. Looking at their website isn't much help. Is there a certain person, department, or branch that I should contact? Do they respond best to phone calls, e-mail, or snail mail?

 

[Hunt200]

Here ya go:

1-800-331-0852 (USA)
Mon-Fri 8:00AM-8:00PM Eastern Time

 

[TAROMAN]

Here ya go:

1-800-331-0852 (USA)
Mon-Fri 8:00AM-8:00PM Eastern Time

I'll call 'em in the morning and report back!

thanks,

 

[n4zov]

I would probably email them a copy of the photo you posted here showing the broken bolt. I have a feeling they are going to want you to return the gun to "fit" the bolt.

 

[Dan Cash]

About 2000, I had a customer bring a brand new 36 to a defensive pistol class. It locked up on the third shot from a broken bolt. Bolt broke in same spot as in the orriginal post. Only one I ever saw.

 

[TAROMAN]

I'll call 'em in the morning and report back!

thanks,

No joy. Their voice mail says they're on vacation until the 13th. I will try them then.

 

[AZretired]

They do close up for a couple weeks during the summer. When you do get a hold of them, you'll find they have excellent customer service.

 

[TAROMAN]

Thought is now that when (if) I get this one fixed, I'll sell it and use the proceeds towards a Ruger LCR. I should have known better than to continue to carry a 35-year old revolver.

 

[H Richard]

I'd install an new bolt and trust the 35 yr old S&W before I'd trust a newly issued Ruger.. I've shot both and there's no comparison.

 

[cp1969]

Thought is now that when (if) I get this one fixed, I'll sell it and use the proceeds towards a Ruger LCR. I should have known better than to continue to carry a 35-year old revolver.

Let me try to convince you otherwise.

In my opinion, the 60 is a far better gun than the LCR. Age is not really a factor. You just got unlucky. I've got several revolvers much older than that which I would trust my life to any day of the week.

The choice is yours, but I think you'll regret it if you replace your Smith with the LCR.

 

[OKFC05]

Let me try to convince you otherwise.

In my opinion, the 60 is a far better gun than the LCR. Age is not really a factor. You just got unlucky. I've got several revolvers much older than that which I would trust my life to any day of the week.

The choice is yours, but I think you'll regret it if you replace your Smith with the LCR.

+1
As I was telling a fellow in another thread, "If you've never had a gun break, you just haven't shot enough" is a trite but true saying.
I had a strange yoke failure in a 20-year-old S&W revolver that I had bought new and even shot IDPA with it. S&W fixed the gun for free, and I would trust it over most new guns.

 

[chief38]

The model 60 is probably one of the most reliable carry guns every produced by ANY manufacturer. I have been working on Smiths for over 30 years and I have replaced just about every part there is to replace, and I must say you just "got lucky". I have never seen that particular part break. There is no need to send the gun back to Smith, you obviously got it out, and the new one should fit right in. I doubt you would need to do any fitting, but even if you did, it should be straight forward.

Yup...........
parts are getting very expensive these days. Just be thankful you found one. I broke a barrel bushing on my Colt Series 80 Govt. model (the spring finger type) which they only made for a few years then discontinued. Go try to find one of those! I finally found a used one from a parts guy on line, but there are no more new ones to be had, and I was very happy to score the one I did. Charged me up the wazoo too!

Replace it and your 60 should perk along for another 40 years or so.

Regards,
chief38