Model 60 Trigger Question

[jimmyj]

Have you tried the LCR with wadcutters?

 

[TampaSW]

jimmyj - I have not, but yours is the third recommendation. I till try it.

Given all the feedback, I am leaning toward the model 60 and working on the trigger (gunsmith, not me). I really think it is a better choice for her.

 

[Tx-60]

Good suggestion on the .22. The big issue I am trying to solve, however is her difficulty in pulling the trigger. If others do not believe the recoil will be much different between the LCR and Model 60, then this is a moot point and I will get her an LCR. Again, she shot it well with laser grips.

That's sound advice for any female or newbie for that matter.
My wife started with a .22 and got to be a pretty good shot,
She then moved up to model 60, shooting 38spl.
That was the best thing she could have done.
Now she has a self defense round that will stop any aggression and she doesn't flinch or pull any of her shots off.
She can hit anything she aims at.

Member NRA and TSRA

 

[mikero]

Model 60 trigger pull

I bought a model 60 in 2001 new. Liked it but wanted to lighten the trigger. Cut 2 coils off the mainspring, no more. Cut a couple coils off the trigger return spring. BIG difference, it changed from what I call a "Lawyer Trigger" to something MUCH more shootable and pleasant. Never a misfire, kept it for some time. Solt it but wish I hadn't! The steel framed 3" barrel model 60 I had was VERY pleasant with .38 Specials and the gun was accurate beyond all expectation. Would have made a great lady's purse gun, very shootable with potential for .357 wallop if need be. Was my carry gun for some time.

Any decent gunsmith can lighten the pull on a model 60 and they can be smoothed out considerably. IMO, the 60 is an excellent choice for carry.

 

[KEN L]

The trick to slicking up any J frame is to leave the hammer spring alone, polish those parts that slide or move against each other and clip (1) one coil off the trigger rebound spring. Leaves plenty of tension to properly return the trigger yet reduces the amount of pressure required to pull it. Smoothing and polishing the face and front edges of that trigger is also very helpful! HTH

 

[Stainz]

Never cut OEM springs - you may just need them! I don't have stock in Wolff springs, but I do use a bunch. Just get a reduced power set - you can always 'go back' to the OEM units, which is hard to do once you've 'clipped' them.

S&W errs to the high side, spring rate wise, to ensure your hammer will pop any primer - and to ensure that the trigger will return for another shot - no matter the state of cleanliness of your revolver. Nothing sinister - just 'good marketing'. I keep my firearms clean - and reload using Federal primers - my play-only revolvers get light springs. Personal protection revolvers are generally left alone.

My wife is 5'10" and prefers her Seecamp .32 for pocket carry - and loves her recent LE PPK - but she has trouble pulling the slide on both of them - something to consider in a 'protector'. Her bedside gun is a 2" 10 - loaded with +P 158gr LHPSWC's - she likes the easy loading - but not the size. My 642 so-loaded is way too much for her - with 148gr lead full wadcutters from Zero, she is fine with them - actually quite the plinker!

Stainz

 

[47D]

I know what you mean about the "active" aspect of a semi-auto. I learned to shoot on semi-autos, but I recently took my buddy's girlfirend shooting for the first time (he came as well). She'd never held a real firearm before. She shot a Glock 19, my new Model 60 Pro, my 1911, and an MP5. The MP5 was of course her favorite because of the almost total lack of recoil. The Glock 19 was her least favorite, because it had the most "felt" recoil of the lot, even more than the steel-framed 1911 in .45.

The OP was referring to the Ruger LCR (polymer framed .38 revolver), not the Ruger LCP (polymer framed .380 semi-auto). "Active" meant lots of recoil with the light frame.

 

[TampaSW]

Thanks to all for the responses. I have purchased the Model 60. Can anybody recommend a gunsmith in Tampa or nearby that can help with the trigger? I am not going to attempt this by myself. Would like to find an SW expert to do the work.

Thanks