Model 63 or older Model 34?

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I'm in the market for a S&W Kit Gun to use to teach my
teen age daughters to shoot with. I realize that a nice example can sell for a fair amount of money but believe that the quality is worth the investment.

I was hoping to get your opinion on which model I should focus my search on. I owned a later made Model 63 some years ago that had chambers rough enough that after several cylinders of shooting it was practically impossible to insert cartridges of numerous brands into the cylinder. Frustrated, I gave it to my son who had a pistol smith polish the chambers which seemed to take care of the problem.

I have seen several nice Model 63's and earlier (flat latch) Model 34's for sale. I like the corrosion resistance of the Model 63 but was wondering if the problem that I had with the one that I owned is a known issue with the Model 63's when maybe the quality wasn't as high a priority as it could have been.

I have to admit that it troubles me a bit to buy an older flat latch in really nice condition as I'm a shooter, not a collector. The shooters say use it, it was made to be used and the collectors put it in a safe! The appeal of an older one is the belief that the quality is higher than the ones that were made before production was halted.

Please share your thoughts and the collective wisdom of the quality of the Model 34 versus the Model 63 if in fact there is even enough difference to give a second thought to. Thanks!
 
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I've had a 34 in nickel and blue and a 63. Virtually no difference and it's a matter of personal preference. The hard chambering is fairly common in all S&W rimfire models. Sometimes switching ammo alleviates the problem altogether.

A good pistolsmith can probably fix this easily, but I've never seen it as that much of an inconvenience to have it worked on.

These revolvers generally shoot well and are capable of nice grouping, even at 25 yards. However, you have to find the right ammo. Sometimes the cheap stuff will shoot with reasonable accuracy; often it won't.

J-frame guns are considerably more difficult for most to shoot well and some become discouraged. The small frame size is not forgiving of poor shooter skills. In my opinion, these are not the best revolver for a beginner.
 
Suggest moving to a K frame model 17 or 18 for the leaf spring trigger instead of coil spring trigger. Of course most shots will likely be single action but DA with a rimfire J frame can be heavy.
 
I have both a 63 and a 4" 34. My grand daughters have used both after graduating from a single shot 22 rifle. They have only shot these in single action. I agree that the J frame double action might be a hard but the weight of a 17, 18 or even a 617 might be a bigger factor.

Have any friends close by that have these models to try out first?
 
All good points above, I appreciate the feedback. I gave serious consideration to finding a K frame as I know the DA pull on a J frame can leave a lot to be desired but given my daughters diminutive hand size I was concerned about the reach to the trigger and weight so I've settled on a J frame.
I didn't realize the kit guns are known for hard chambering which is a bit surprising. I don't have any pistol smiths close enough by that I have experience with and don't want to incur the cost and trouble of sending it off. Will have to try more ammo types if I run into the problem in the future.
Thanks again for the feedback!
 
My 1978 4" M34-1 with factory targets added has always been a good shooter & favorite with my lady friends & friend's lady's. You should have one.
I think Smith 22 chambers tend to be tight, nearer match specs. They don't like cheap lead bullet ammo, but any plated stuff seems to reduce dirty chamber issues.
I'll add here a trick I found in a gun mag many years ago. To wipe down the gun, barrel chambers... everything but the grips... with BreakFree CLP on a patch then a dry patch, before firing: leaves only a film. That way fouling is on top of the film & easier to remove. (Back then we qualified with low bid reloads that could really dirty a gun. The Dept Armorer saw me do it & had a pump sprayer there for the next qualification.)
 
I have m34 and have had m63s. I didn't see any difference in them. Both have tight chambers which is one of the points that
make them accurate. My 17s & 18s have tight chambers too. I only got rid of 63 because I don't like stainless. I do hoarde the older model S&Ws because their is no doubt in my mind that they
were made with more fit & finish.

They might not be as easy to shoot as a 18, but is still the best
starter gun for kids and women who would have trouble with the
weight of a K frame. They have to learn to walk before they run.
DA is not a issue with beginners they will be shooting SA. For shooters that are use to shooting heavier target guns a 34/63
takes a little getting use to, not so with new shooters. I can't think of better gun to start new shooters on. A Diamondback Colt but they are more money and are tight chambered too. Anything
that comes off assembly lines will occasionally put out a lemon.
I wouldn't be concerned lightning is going to strike you twice.
 
I think you're comparing two models that are very close to identical in function. Obviously the 63 will be more forgiving of cosmetic abuse and neglect.

My 10 year old daughter shoots my 34-1 just fine, but in SA only.

If you've narrowed down to a Kit Gun, it's as simple as finding a good deal on a mechanically sound gun. Look for peening around the charge holes, cylinder shake (worn cylinder stop), end shake, damage, etc.

Now, if you can find a 34 pretending to be a 63, buy it :) Mine is posing next to my K-22.

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My current pocket gun while hunting birds is a 2" 63. Have owned the 34's and can see no difference in handling, accuracy, etc. Agree with those above suggesting a larger gun for beginner. I also like the Colt Woodsman 22 pistols. Medium size and weight; nice triggers.
 
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Welcome aboard from Wyoming.

I'd take a vintage 34 over a 63 any day.

My 1958 flat latch 34 had the same problems as yours, which are the same on my postwar K-22. It's not a I or J-frame thing; it's a rimfire thing. (If you find a pre-1961 or so 34 it's built on the I-frame.)

My grandmother taught me to shoot her 1958 I-frame .32 Regulation Police (Model 31) when I was 7. Almost as easy to control as a .22. I didn't start shooting double action till I was in my 20s and always wished I'd started when I was little. Yeah, it's a bit of a pull for a small hand, but you truly learn control.

Whatever you pick, have fun shooting with your daughter.
 
I have owned several 34's and own a new manufacture, last 12 months model 63. The new 63 is accurate with ammo that it likes and I do not have the sticky chamber issues that I had with the 34's.

That being said, I have an older model 18 that is my wife and daughter's favorite handgun to shoot. With the smaller grips and shorter barrel, it is a lot more user friendly to them than my model 17's.
 
I have and do own a good many DA revolvers and haven't shot
anything but a couple shots on DA and that would have been
with a K22 a long time ago. Then again I never keep guns that
have no sporting or target applications.
 
Either one of the earlier 34's or 63's make great youth training handguns. I had accumulated one of each, and yes my granddaughter loved shooting it.



The hard extraction is very common in S&W Rimfires. The permanent solution is to have the chambers reamed with a standard finishing chamber reamer. I've done all my .22 revolvers and have no problems now.
 
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There are no bad choices

I have had more than a couple of both over the years and for training purposes I believe it really doesn't matter. What does matter are the unknowns, such as how slick of a trigger you happen upon. The last M34 I owned was perhaps the sweetest I have ever owned in a rimfire with the M63 not far behind. You really won't know unless you can find one locally, take your own snap caps. I didn't have that benefit but by luck of the draw ended up with 2 beauties. As noted the sticky cartridges are also another unknown. You can avoid both issues with a new M67 10 round if your daughters can deal with the added weight. I would also consider the Ruger LCRX .22 3". One of the nicest double action triggers you will come across in a new rimfire revolver. My vote would still be the M67 to avoid any disappointments and up the round count to 10. Good Luck

Oh Ya, The M18 should be a consideration and they can be found for less than you might think. This one I snagged on GB for $600, no original grips or box but the trigger action that makes you love em.
 

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I have an older 63 and it does not have the sticky chamber problem of many Smith .22s. Neither does the two 617s I have. However, I have had other .22s that did have this problem. I just cleaned the chambers when they became sticky. Often as it were! I picked an mid 50s K22 recently that already had the chambers reamed. It no longer has sticky chambers.
 
I've had several S&W and Colt .22 revolvers for years. No real difference in accuracy between the two brands (except for a couple of Diamondbacks), but I've never owned any Colt .22 LR revolver with tight cylinder chambers.

I used to go along with the conventional wisdom notion that tight chambers enhanced the accuracy of the S&Ws. That can only be described as "flawed" conventional wisdom...
 
I have the new 8-shot Model 63 and never had a problem with sticky chambers. I love the older Smiths and would love to find a 2" Model 34 someday, but the current Model 63 is a fine kit gun and a great trainer for new shooters.
 
The only problem I see is that one of the girls will wind up with it.
I would include in the search the older High Standard Sentinal. They are generally accurate 9 shot guns and you can look for a Smith to keep for yourself.
 
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