S&Wskinner
Member
Question to you guys...do you think I should leave it at it's original luster? or should I go all out and buff it to a nickel shine? Once again, it's already been shot, so it's not holding NIB value. Thoughts?
Model 67-1
- Thread starter shrub
- Start date
bananaman
Member
Skinner, I just hand polished my 67 no dash with Flitz. It is personal preference. You are not causing damage to it. Mine looks alot better than when I bought it a month ago. If you machine buffed with the wrong compound, then you could cause harm! Bob
Deciding to polish a stainless gun like yours is going to be a decision that will surely haunt many people in the future.....
I'm a collector who has followed S&W's for decades and I believe I can say polished guns are and will receive much more scrutiny than original finish guns.
The problem is so much cosmetic abuse can be covered up by unscrupulous sellers that it will become very difficult to sell them using pictures, especially over the internet.
Many collectors are already seeing guns portrayed as NIB or near NIB when in fact they have had many, many rounds fired through them for many. many years. Consider that even a S&W factory re-blue or re-nickle can have a negative impact on a guns value.
A revolver like your 67-1 from the P&R period has already achieved collector status to many people. Keeping it that way will enhance the value over time..
I don't say this to denigrate people who have chosen to polish their stainless guns. That's their choice. Simply as a "heads up" to be considered when we make any modification to any quality handgun, especially current low production and potentially collectable ones...
JMHO
S&Wskinner
Member
Thanks for the advice guys! I will keep it the way it is...in it's original luster. Just never know what the next few decades might make of it. 
Hello everyone!
I have a question about my 67-1. Firing it in double action is no problem. But whenever you try to manually cock the hammer, it won't stay back. So basically it's a DAO revolver.
Anybody know why that is?
The place that sold it to me said it used to belong to a police officer, so I assumed it was a special production run. The serial is AWA7XXX.
Thank you in advance.
I have a question about my 67-1. Firing it in double action is no problem. But whenever you try to manually cock the hammer, it won't stay back. So basically it's a DAO revolver.
Anybody know why that is?
The place that sold it to me said it used to belong to a police officer, so I assumed it was a special production run. The serial is AWA7XXX.
Thank you in advance.
Engine49guy
Member
I could only find this pic of the 67 and 66.
I recently picked up a dash 1 but it is unpinned with a 3 letter serial prefix.
I recently picked up a dash 1 but it is unpinned with a 3 letter serial prefix.
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It could be a double-action-only (DAO) conversion. Some LE agencies required DAO for duty guns. Some of the conversions were done by the agency armorer. Depending on how it's had the single action neutered, it may be a little or a lot costly to return to SA/DA trigger action.Hello everyone!
I have a question about my 67-1. Firing it in double action is no problem. But whenever you try to manually cock the hammer, it won't stay back. So basically it's a DAO revolver.
Anybody know why that is?
The place that sold it to me said it used to belong to a police officer, so I assumed it was a special production run. The serial is AWA7XXX.
Thank you in advance.
If you intend to use the 67 DA only, then leave it alone and shoot it as-is.
My most recent purchase, about 5 weeks ago. One of S&W's finest offerings.
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xx78
Member
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barcroft
Member
Cosmetic question
About fifteen years ago I was given (actuallly he "made" me pay $ 1.00 for it) a 67 no dash by a customer of mine when he heard that a lowlife that B&E'd my house worked his way through the only steel cabinet in the house with a lock on it to carry off my 4" 66-1. The gun came with non checkered S&W target grips and a closed barrel Safariland leather holster. It had evidently spent some time in that holster because there was corrosion on both sides of the front sight. Other that that it was in beautiful condition and shoots like a laser. When we go to the range my two daughters fight over who gets to shoot it first. The trigger on it is as smooth as silk, noticeably nicer than my lost 66-1's trigger. I am wondering if I should have the front sight polished out or just leave well enough alone. I will never sell it and it has since been joined by an apparently un-fired 66-2. The girls can fight over who gets what when I'm gone. Any thoughts?
About fifteen years ago I was given (actuallly he "made" me pay $ 1.00 for it) a 67 no dash by a customer of mine when he heard that a lowlife that B&E'd my house worked his way through the only steel cabinet in the house with a lock on it to carry off my 4" 66-1. The gun came with non checkered S&W target grips and a closed barrel Safariland leather holster. It had evidently spent some time in that holster because there was corrosion on both sides of the front sight. Other that that it was in beautiful condition and shoots like a laser. When we go to the range my two daughters fight over who gets to shoot it first. The trigger on it is as smooth as silk, noticeably nicer than my lost 66-1's trigger. I am wondering if I should have the front sight polished out or just leave well enough alone. I will never sell it and it has since been joined by an apparently un-fired 66-2. The girls can fight over who gets what when I'm gone. Any thoughts?
Personally, I'd leave the front sight be if it isn't affecting aim, which it sounds like it isn't. Part of the character of the gun now, and since you've no plan to sell, why mess with a good thing?
Also, zombie thread.
