Well got my 38 S & W double action with hammer second model kind of . The serial number 92XXX comes back to a second model but there is a number on the cylinder 163XXX . The cylinder appears to be a third model and the trigger appears like a second model . The grips are S&W in black and red . The weapon times , locks up and is blued . The last pat is Jan 3rd 82 . I know that photos are helpful and I have them in Photobucket and on my desk top but can't get them on here . I will get help early in the week to post the photos
model confusion
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opoefc
US Veteran
I'm not sure what your question is. You have what appears to be gun with mixed parts, not an unheard of situation. Ed.
deadin
US Veteran
I didn't think a Second Model frame would work with a later model cylinder. as the locking/timing systems are different..
Am I wrong in my assumption?
Am I wrong in my assumption?
I have to agree I don't think you could put a third model cylinder on a second model frame as the bolt lock or cylinder lock would seem to be different between the two models . But as I look at the weapon the cylinder has the appearance of a modern Smith . The trigger has cut out on the rear the same as the second model , not the solid appearance of the third model . Is the number on the rear of the cylinder a serial number or an accessibly number or something else ? The frame does not appear to have been modified . Did they do rolling change over ? Was there a latter Patent number on third models ? I have never seen red and black grips before
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The red & black grips were factory and while not rare, are very scarce, and do have value themselves. Roy tells me they were normally used on blued guns. There were also yellow & black and green & black but I have never seen any of those.
What does the cylinder look like? As others have mentioned, the 2nd Model had a double rocker type cylinder stop, which required a cylinder with 2 rows of grooves/notches. I agree that the cylinder is not interchangeable with the 3rd Model, so a few pictures would help. Also, look at the bottom of the top latch and between the ears of the top frame on both sides of the latch for numbers.
The number on the top latch matches the number on the cylinder, which only has a single row of notches like a modern Smith . The info from this site is invaluable and I know how much it would help if I could post photos. I thank you guys
OK - here is how I attach images. First, click on the orange Post Reply button. After you add whatever text you want, scroll down until you see the button that says Manage Attachments. Click on that and look for a Browse button. That will open up your computer. Find a picture you want to post and double-click on it. It will return you to the Manage Attachment tab. Now click on the Upload button. Wait until the image uploads and shows up in the tab. You can add images by clicking the Browse button and repeat the process. When you are done, just close the tab and you will be returned to you reply, and then just hit submit reply.
Now this all assumes you already have the images loaded into your computer, if not, find a son, daughter, or a grandchild to help.
While going through" Pictures and Albums " on this forum I found a picture of a second model opened with the bolt lock visible . What I have is a second model frame with a third model upper and cylinder . It times locks up and , although not checked with range rods , appears to line up cylinder to bore . The rocker bolt lock draws a slight line on the cylinder but does not seem to cause a bind when firing double action . When I cleaned it I found no indication of lead splitting . Fired brass that came with the gun indicates nothing unusual . Its a miss matched mutt but appears to function but not much of a collectable .
