Mountain bikes - what should I look for?

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The Mrs. and I are looking to get out and get some exercise together. We live right next to a county park with about 12 miles of mountain bike and walking trails.
So, 2 + 2 = we now want to get mountain bikes to ride.

Problem is, I haven't rode a bike in about 15 years and even then, it was a BMX bike. I know nothing about mountain bikes.
So, I'd appreciate any advice you fellow forum members can offer. I'll still do some independent research, but I'd like to hear first hand experience and recommendations as to what is a good brand, what features to look for, etc.

Also, are these things comfortable? The seats look awful small? I don't want to end up getting 'roids the first time out. Ya know?
 
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The Mrs. and I are looking to get out and get some exercise together. We live right next to a county park with about 12 miles of mountain bike and walking trails.
So, 2 + 2 = we now want to get mountain bikes to ride.

Problem is, I haven't rode a bike in about 15 years and even then, it was a BMX bike. I know nothing about mountain bikes.
So, I'd appreciate any advice you fellow forum members can offer. I'll still do some independent research, but I'd like to hear first hand experience and recommendations as to what is a good brand, what features to look for, etc.

Also, are these things comfortable? The seats look awful small? I don't want to end up getting 'roids the first time out. Ya know?
 
I spent many hundreds .... actually, a few thousand miles ... on two self-powered wheels. Roads, trails, whatever. Mountain bike technology has come a LONG way in the past fifteen years.

First, size. Not just vertical, but length. If you stand over the top tube with your feet flat, you should have at least 2-3" of clearance from your crotch to the tube. If you're doing more technical/gnarly trails, consider 4-5" of clearance.
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Length/reach is the next concern. When you're riding, you don't want your arms to be waaaay out in front of you, or waaay out to the sides. This is somewhat adjustable by replacing the stem tube and moving the seat forward some, and replacing handlebars if necessary. It's worth spending the $25-40 for "bar ends" - the vertical "horns" on either end of the bar. They make longer rides much more comfortable by adding new places to rest your hands.

Tires: you can get anything from "slicks" to super-aggressive "knobbies". If you're doing mostly paved paths, you'll want kind of medium-tread. Knobs buzz on pavement, slicks have zero traction off asphalt.

Look for a "hardtail" bike - rear suspension only adds weight and sucks power. You don't need it unless you're doing serious downhill tracks. Front suspension is pretty much standard and makes the ride a lot more comfortable.

Brakes may be disc or center-pull cantilevers, I don't have a strong preference there. They both stop you.

Expect to spend 400-500 for a solid entry-level bike from a decent bike shop. Look for end-of-season sales and "last year's model" for better prices. For that price you can expect to be getting an alloy frame and lower-mid-range components that have some durability.

Like guns, it's worth going to a bike shop instead of your local sporting goods department store (Dicks or whatever).

I can't help you on brands; I haven't followed them closely in years... but I hope some of the above helps some.
 
Both Trek and Giant have excellent web sites and they give you suggested prices. I've spent alot of time on them although I am still riding my 15 year old mountain bike on the logging roads. I check Craigslist once in a while to see if a particular model is for sale in my area.
 
+++Zercool, It has been a while since I've done much biking, Zercool has it right. Get a bike that fits, stay away from the Wal Marts and big box stores. Check out serious bike shops they may cost a little more, you'll get a bike that fits and one that is the best for what you intend to use it for. Mt. Bikes are easy to ride, you are relatively erect. Road bikes have longer frames, smoother riding, tougher on the crotch. There are also hybrid bikes, kinda half road, half mountain bike. Check out a serious bike shop they will help you choose the best bikes to fit your intended use.
 
Originally posted by cbpotel:
+++Zercool, It has been a while since I've done much biking, Zercool has it right. Get a bike that fits, stay away from the Wal Marts and big box stores. Check out serious bike shops they may cost a little more, you'll get a bike that fits and one that is the best for what you intend to use it for. Mt. Bikes are easy to ride, you are <span class="ev_code_RED">relatively erect</span>. Road bikes have longer frames, smoother riding, tougher on the crotch. There are also hybrid bikes, kinda half road, half mountain bike. Check out a serious bike shop they will help you choose the best bikes to fit your intended use.

Is that if you only take half a Viagra? Sorry, my bad, having too much fun tonight. I'll get serious now. Musta thought I was Sip for a minute there.
 
I road bike, not mountain bike, so this might not apply, but the most important thing, above everything else, is fit. Fitting a bike is more than just standing over it and seeing if you clear the top tube and riding around the parking lot.

The good bike shops will have a fit kit system, which is basically a stationary bike with moveable stems: up, down, fore, aft for both the seat and handle bars. If you buy a bike from them, they should include the fitting as part of the price of the bike. If you need to swap seat posts or stems, they should be willing to swap parts to make the bike fit.

If you don't buy a bike from them, expect to pay for the fitting.
 
I'll also suggest going to a few of the better bike shops and see what they have, how they fit you and start on the learning curve. The more you learn prior to the purchase the better chance you have of getting the right ride the first time. Spend the money it takes to get what you need, you're the one that has to live with its short comings if you don't. A good properly outfitted/adjusted/set up bike is a really nice piece of equipment.
 
All good advise posted by other members. I have an "Iron Horse" and my wife rides a "Fuji". My bike frame is chrome-moly because I weigh 220 pounds and ride very aggresively. My wife's bike frame is aluminum because the weight savings helps her riding.

Most of the frames for the off-the-rack name brand mountain bikes (Trek, Giant, GT, Specialized, Diamondback, etc.) are made by just a handful of manufacturers.

After proper fitment, it's the bolt on components that will make the next biggest difference. I would suggest you do not buy any mountain bike that has brake, shifter, hub, or crank components below the level of Shimano Deore.

As stated previously, I would also avoid the soft-tail frame. I even prefer a rigid front fork over the now popular "Rock Shock", but that comes from my BMX background.

I have two complete sets of rims for each of our bikes; one set for extreme offroad riding and one set for hybrid riding (road & trail).

Buy from a good, reputable bike shop. They will be able to fit you properly to a good quality bike, provide follow-up service, and give you riding instructions. Buy a bike that is at least one or two levels above your riding ability, to allow yourself room to grow technically. If you buy a bike to fit your current level, you will quickly surpass it's capabilities.
 
If your riding on rock base trails and paved trails look into a hybred from someone like Trek.

If your really going to be riding on mountain track, get a mountain. Again quality like Trek or better.

Bob
 
REI, the sports equipment co-op has advice and counsel, and its own house brand of bike stuff, worth a look...
 
If there is a bike shop near where you live and ride and it is only a few bucks more expensive, it might be best to buy from them. Most shops will do the adjustments free if you buy the bike there, and mountain bikes need more adjustments and repairs than road bikes, especially if you ride agressively.
 
Gr8AmericanBash -

I have riden Road and Mountain bikes since the 1980s.

What Joni said, says it all.

SF

8654JM
 
Very good advice above. However, you might want to think about your level of commitment. There's a couple in our neighborhood who spent $3000 on two very nice recumbent bikes to ride on the river trails (paved) three blocks away. They rode exactly twice.

If it were me, I'd spend $30/each on a couple of used pawn shop bikes, ride for a while, and see what the commitment level is before shelling out $1400 for a nice pair of bikes. When you're through with the pawn shop bikes, donate them to the Salvation Army or give them to the kids down the street.
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Wanna be truly cool?
Ride a Smith & Wesson mountain bike!
Yep, they once marketed mountain bikes! A search of the net will show you where they're still sold.
I bought mine from Sportsman's Surplus a year ago. Total cost was about $300 but I got a heck of a bike.
Like you, I didn't know a thing about them. I showed the catalog to a co-worker who bikes all the time. He recognized immediately who actually made it -- some Japanese company that was noted for excellence.
Mine's painted in urban camo because Smith & Wesson was targeting police departments who had bicycle patrols.
I love mine. On or off the streets, it draws looks. I attached a nylon holster for my S&W .38 snubnose 637 to the frame. When I ride in the desert, the pistol's first two shots are of shot, the remaining three are lead semiwadcutters.
In town, the holster holds my cellphone or point and shoot camera.
A great bike, if you can still find one.
The SMITH & WESSON in script on the frame, against an urban camo backdrop of black, gray and green mottling looks great.
 
Gr8, One thing I forgot to mention, after you purchase a bike and the necessary accoutrement, buy your wife and yourself each a couple of bright dayglow yellow tee shirts, Walls makes them. If you plan on riding on the public roads, do not ever give any motorist the chance to say that he/she didn't see you.
 

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