Mounting RMR questions on 2.0

[Canyon Man]

I was considering mounting an RMR on a 2.0 compact, and a full length 5 inch 2.0. I'm wondering, if I had the slide milled, how does it work if you want to remove the extractor - would I have to remove the RMR to punch out the pin that holds the extractor in place ? And on the five inch model, there is also the pin for the loaded chamber indicator. How does this work on the 1.0 core models that are preset for RMR's. If it's necessary to remove the RMR to get to those pins, that would mean I'd have to resight the RMR in each time I would think. Thanks for any help that can be offered on this. : )

 

[CB3]

You will not have to resight the RMR when you remove and replace it with a custom milled slide. Nothing changes with the sight adjustments, and the mounting location is precisely the same.

I don’t have a Compact or a 5” 2.0 so I’ll leave those answers to others who do.

I suspect the extractor pin is located the same distance from the rear of the slide for all slides. Changes to slide length occur forward of this point for different calibers or lengths of slides I believe. If this is true, the milling for an RMR will not cover the extractor pin.

The loaded chamber indicator (LCI) on the 2.0 will interfere with milling I’m fairly certain. There are some workarounds for additional expense. Be sure to discuss this with your machinist before beginning the project.

 

[Canyon Man]

Thank you for the input. This will be my first go round with mounting an optic on a pistol.

 

[CB3]

There are many threads here from the past two years addressing mounting optics. Searching here is difficult for some reason but is worth trying.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...ot-m-p-9-full-size.html?511926=#post139498384

Core Owners -zeroing optics

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...44-m-p9-2-0-optics.html?574344=#post140225877

You are making a great choice by going with the top of the line RMR. Milling is also the preferred method in many people’s opinion. Taller rear and front sights will be necessary for cowitnessing irons through the optic. This is an advantage both for training and as backups in case the dot fails. Of course range use (competition) may allow you to pursue different options, but a personal defense pistol with an optic usually will dictate highest quality and maximize mounting and use options.

Good luck.

 

[pmc847]

I have a Vortex Viper on my M2.0C, slide milled by Primary Machine (primarymachine.com) No rear sight and a Dawson .285 tritium front sight. I painted a post on the back of the Viper and that co-witness just fine in case the red dot fails. Just place the front dot on top of the painted post, POA POI. Simple and fast. I started with the CORE front sight but it was 6" low. I used the Dawson sight calculator https://dawsonprecision.com/sight-calculator/ to find out the correct hight. I'm going to do the same with my CORE with the Vortex Razor RD.

on both the CORE and M2.0C the extractor pin is covered by the red dot.

I also have the Apex barrel and flat trigger on the M2.0c and the CORE. Don't leave home without them.

Philip

 

[stavey]

I had primary machine mill my 2.0 45acp . They provided a small circle plug to go over the spring the red dot holds this down.

 

[Canyon Man]

Thanks for the link provided pmc847. I'm going to get some use out of that. And the lead to Primary Machine and how they provide a circle plug is just some really good information to know. I'll be looking at the links you provided tonight too CB3. You guys have done this and know the questions running through my mind. It's kind of a significant step for me to take - mounting a red dot on a pistol that is...never done it before...but quicker target acquisition is worth the time, effort, expense, and learning curve I believe. I've seen the difference on rifles, but the sight doesn't move while cycling like it does on a pistol. I did a little bit of shooting with a friends pistol, and after a few times have decided to run with it. Really, thanks for taking the time to post the replies. It's a bit scary for me lol. I love my M&P's, and would like to go ahead and stick with this platform to do it. I think I'm going to do it on my 2.0 compact first. I have a 5 inch 2.0 - which actually might be going that route too. I've seen a vid on using a 1.0 slide with slight modification to the slide stop, but one at a time...not to mention needing to get use to shooting with a dot. Perhaps Smith will release an optic ready 5 inch model by that time. I'll put a little time in on the search function tonight. Really, thanks to all ! Great information here !

 

[BigDog48]

Another alternative is that companies like EGW make mounts that replace your rear sight, thus not making any permanent change to the slide: M&P: EGW Gun Parts

 

[pmc847]

ConyonMan

The 1.0 slide work just fine on the 2.0 frame. You need to mod the slide stop on the 1.0 frame to work with the 2.0 slide. Right now I have the 1.0 PC CORE slide on my 2.0C, Works great but I'm going to keep the PC CORE slide on my updated 1.75 frame.

If you can find a CORE slide all the better. I spend $210 to get my 2.0C machined and re-coated. Very happy indeed.

PMCs M&P PC C.O.R.E. M1.75

Cheers

Philip

 

[Canyon Man]

I like the thought of using a bone stock 1.0 slide. I know the steel is a little thicker too. I'm not opposed to a 4.25 slide on my 4 inch compact lower. I see Smith came out with core models in the Shield. I guess I should call Smith and see when releases will be made in their other pistols. My five inch is in .40 cal - and I plan on sticking with .40 in the full sized version. In this day and age, I only expect they'll make a core version in 9mm for the 2.0. The only problem I have really isn't a problem - deciding on what route I want to take to accomplish getting set up. I haven't even read reviews on how ppl like the core set up on the M&P 1.0 yet - I'll be reviewing the provided links for a bit before lights out tonight. This thread is going to save me a lot of time with the resources provided in it.

 

[pmc847]

LOOKS LIKE IT SOLD��


MP pistol.com and check out classified. There is a red CORE slide for sale with Apex barrel.

It’s a first time poster so causing is advised.

 

[Canyon Man]

Just thought of this. If I'm not mistaken, the M&P's have the same diameter for barrels of all calibers in their slides. So I could probably use a 9 mm slide. But I'm putting some stock in the above referenced how most people prefer to have their regular slides milled and fitted for what they want. I want to have a rear sight either way it goes though. Finding sights that will work at like suppressor height may be a chore too. I have some local shops of good reputation here locally too. I think I may see myself over thinking this whole thing - shouldn't really be rocket science. This is going to be something I'm not really going to worry about the most cost effective way - just want it to be a solid hold. Again, all appreciated input here.

 

[Michael from Wynnewood]

Holosun 507K co-witness?

Have a Holosun 501K on the way, which I plan to mount on a 2.0 4.25". Am I right that I can get the silde milled so that the RMR will co-witness with the iron sights? And can anyone recommend a really reliable machinist to mill the slide?

 

[okiegtrider]

Michael, I used maple leaf firearms in Celina, TX last year for a milling and refinishing job. Very pleased with their work. I would use them again without hesitation.

 

[oworthsr]

I have an M&P40 Compact w/4" barrel and want to mount either a Trijicon RMR II or a Vortex Venum. I have emailed S&W to see if they ever issued an optics ready slide for the 40 Compact, but have heard no reply. So...after reading the above chatter I have a couple of questions:
1. Will an M&P9 Compact slide (for 4" barrel) be compatible with my M&P40 Compact? If yes, this would seem to be the easiest solution.
2. If I must mill my M&P40 Compact slide, I can take it to Maple Leaf Fireamrs, as that Celina-based company is about 10 miles from my home. But if I go this route, sounds like I'll be spending a lot of money to have the milling done, purchase the adapter plate, then have the whole shebang colorized to match my M&P.

I'd appreciate thoughts about each of these options. I'm reluctant to mill the stock slide, since that action cannot be reversed in the event I ever sold the gun.

 

[gonerydin]

You could buy a new optics ready 4” M&P 40 and sell your current one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk