Muzzle Energy = Recoil?

[ebailyn]

We bought a Model 60 30SPCL, and I want my wife's (and my) first experience at the shooting range to be as easy as possible so as not to scare her off. In order to minimize recoil, can I simply pick a cartridge with a muzzle energy? For example, I found a 130 gr FMJ with a muzzle energy of 185 ft-lbs. On the other hand, alot of people have suggested that I go with a 130 gr WC, but I'm finding the muzzle energy in these to be in the 200+ range. Hard to imagine the shape of the bullet tips affecting recoil, but I can imagine it affecting aim (...and then would aim really differ that much at less than 50 foot distances or less?). From a layman's perspective, it really seems like muzzle energy is the ideal metric to be concerned about for our range ammo.

As we progress through stronger cartridges, my thought is that I'll always try to be loaded at-home with home-defense cartridges (eg. JHPs) of nearly identical muzzle energy to our current range cartridges.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

Thanks,
Eric

 

[vipermd]

Congrats on your purchase. Please use hearing and eye protection- loud noise can be unpleasant for anyone. Since you are just starting realize that the FMJ will be cleaner shooting than the wadcutter, if they are at a comparable price use the FMJ. A few number muzzle energy= weight of the bullet in grains X velocity squared divided by 450400. So even though the bullet weights were the same, the bullet is of different material ( copper vs lead ) and will have different levels of resistance in the barrel and therefore different velocities. Also the ME listed for the two cartridges may vary due to the length or type of barrel used for testing, equipment location for testing, temp, Barometer, etc. Do not over think it. Realize that a heavier bullet going at the same velocity as a lighter bullet will have more recoil. Recoil is measure as free recoil impulse ( lots of numbers ). " Perceived" what you are feeling is more dependent on style of firearm, grip angle and material, hand size and strength, experience. The SW 60 is a small ,light gun and therefore you will have more recoil than if you were shooting the same 38 spl load in a 6" 686. Use eyes/ears, start close to a large target, and relax and enjoy. You will get better with practice, take your time, firing 50 rushed shots is not as beneficial as firing 10 well aimed shots. Follow your basics. Be Safe,

 

[scooter123]

Recoil is the result of a complex set of factors and everyone's perception can be different. However, Muzzle Energy can be one predictor, so you are on the right path, I just don't think that anyone will notice a 10 or 15 ft.lts. difference at the 200 ft.lbs. point. I would suggest that you use the ammunition that is easiest to find and if both FMJ and Wadcutters are equally available choose the FMJ because it will be easier to clean up after your range session.

Now, the model 60 is NOT a great choice for starting out a new shooter. One key factor in Recoil is the mass of the handgun and lighter guns produce more percieved recoil than heavier ones. Your model 60 will weigh in at about 24 ounces while a 4 inch 686 weighs in around 38 ounces.

One tip, the mass of your hand(s) does become a factor in perceived recoil. Just like with a shotgun, a good firm grip that tightly couples your hand(s) and arm to the mass of the gun will reduce the felt recoil. Use a loose grip and the gun will shift rather violently in the hand.

Second tip, the grip used does matter. Because a good grip technique will more tightly couple the gun to your hand(s) than a poor technique. Before going to the range do a search on Youtube using the term "Jerry Miculek". In there you will find a video demonstrating the Crossed Thumb 2 handed hold he uses for shooting with a J frame revolver. Pay attention to this video, copy this grip and plan on using that grip when shooting because it will allow excellent control of the revolver. Note, this same grip will leave you bleeding with a semi auto handgun so it's a revolver specific grip. Also remember 60% of the "squeeze" should be done by the support hand with the trigger hand only supplying 40% of the gripping power.

Next tip, double up on hearing protection. Specifically use the cheap In the Ear foam earplugs AND over the ear muffs. Reducing your exposure to the sound of gunshots from your own gun and your neighbors guns can go a long way towards reducing the tendancy to flinch and increasing enjoyment of shooting at paper. I would also suggest starting out with the target at about 15 feet and gradually increasing the distance as your skill increases.

Final tip, if your wife finds shooting the model 60 too painful check and see if your shooting range has a model 686 available for rent. I can assure you that while the 686 is noticeably heavier in the hand it is a much softer shooting revolver.

 

[5-Shot]

Technically, recoil is related to momentum rather than energy. Energy is a function of bullet weight and velocity squared while momentum depends on weight and velocity (not squared). The result as far as your concerned is that lighter bullets will likely reduce recoil even if energy isn't cut.

Ed

 

[tops]

Buy a .22 for practice. Less recoil, cheaper and less noise. Figure the cost of .22s and .38s and it won't take long to pay for another pistol. Larry

 

[H Richard]

There are Target Wad-cutters, which are loaded very mild and have minimal recoil. The Mod 60, while being a very good gun, is not the best to begin with learning to shoot . The short barrel will magnify any sight alignment and the groups may be discouraging. Proper trigger control is required in order for the small guns to be shot well. The suggestion of a .22 to learn with is a good one, and the minimal recoil will assist in learning good sight picture, & trigger control. Also, you can afford to practice 10X as much with the price of .22's compared to quality 38's.