My 629-1 is out of time and I can't seem to find anyone selling new hands for this model.

[djvernon68]

This model uses the version of the N-Frame hand that has a shorter pin and a 'cam' about mid way up the hand arm. I can't seem to find a source for this part anyplace. Everywhere I do see it for sale it is out of stock. Anyone know a place where I can get this part? Thank you in advance.

 

[Thaddeus Beauregard]

Jack First Gun Parts has them. Just pick the width that corresponds to your 29.

Shop the latest Replacement Smith & Wesson old model N frame 1954-1988 Parts - Online Store

Shop the latest Obsolete Replacement Smith & Wesson old model N frame 1954-1988 Parts

jackfirstinc.com

 

[djvernon68]

Thank you Thaddeus!

 

[Nightowl]

What width is in your gun at the moment? I have at least one that I took out of a 629-5, and maybe some others, but you will want one the right size.

 

[ms]

Why do you think it's out of time?

 

[djvernon68]

Why do you think it's out of time?

When attempting to fire it double action the primer strike is off to the edge of the primer. At this point the hammer strike is so far off that the round rarely goes off. But before it got this bad lead bullets fired out of time would lead the barrel up terribly in only a few rounds. Also, it fails the classic test for timing. You lightly impede the cylinder with one hand while cocking the hammer. When the hammer is fully clocked the cylinder will still be out of battery. You can then rotate the cylinder manually counter clockwise until you hear it click into place.

 

[Thaddeus Beauregard]

You may have excessively worn ratchets on your extractor. Check your hand's width with mics in several places along its length. If the cause is hand wear, you will see that it is narrower at the top of the hand from wear where it engages and slips beside the ratchets. If it is tapered from wear, pick a hand width that corresponds with the width close to the bottom of the hand. If your hand is of uniform width along its length, then you likely have ratchet wear instead. If you have ratchet wear, you will need to buy a new extractor and fit (or have fitted) the edges of the ratchets to the hand by careful filing those end faces until the hand just starts to slip by each at full carry-up. Or, you can buy a new hand that is a thou or two wider than the hand you have and fit it to the ratchets by gradually stoning the inside edge of the hand only on the short section at the end where it slides beside the ratchets at full stroke.

Jack First also carries the extractors, found on the same page as the hands.

 

[djvernon68]

You may have excessively worn ratchets on your extractor. Check your hand's width with mics in several places along its length. If the cause is hand wear, you will see that it is narrower at the top of the hand from wear where it engages and slips beside the ratchets. If it is tapered from wear, pick a hand width that corresponds with the width close to the bottom of the hand. If your hand is of uniform width along its length, then you likely have ratchet wear instead. If you have ratchet wear, you will need to buy a new extractor and fit (or have fitted) the edges of the ratchets to the hand by careful filing those end faces until the hand just starts to slip by each at full carry-up. Or, you can buy a new hand that is a thou or two wider than the hand you have and fit it to the ratchets by gradually stoning the inside edge of the hand only on the short section at the end where it slides beside the ratchets at full stroke.

Jack First also carries the extractors, found on the same page as the hands.

Thanks again Thaddeus. I have put the gun back together while I wait for my parts order to come in. However, I had checked the width along the hand. It was, as you suspect a little narrower at the top than it was at the bottom. There were also visible wear marks at the very top where it interfaces with the ratchets. The entire upper end of the hand was thinner (.091) than the smallest size for sale on the Jack First site. I assumed that meant wear and ordered three hands in graduating size from .092 up. But now I know what my next steps are if the new hands don't result in proper timing. I am hoping that one of the new ones will result in either proper timing or overtiming where I can then stone it back down to proper function.

 

[Thaddeus Beauregard]

Thanks again Thaddeus. I have put the gun back together while I wait for my parts order to come in. However, I had checked the width along the hand. It was, as you suspect a little narrower at the top than it was at the bottom. There were also visible wear marks at the very top where it interfaces with the ratchets. The entire upper end of the hand was thinner (.091) than the smallest size for sale on the Jack First site. I assumed that meant wear and ordered three hands in graduating size from .092 up. But now I know what my next steps are if the new hands don't result in proper timing. I am hoping that one of the new ones will result in either proper timing or overtiming where I can then stone it back down to proper function.

You bet brother! Please update on your findings after installing the new hand. I forgot to mention, if you do use an oversized hand and fit it, you will probably also need to file open the inside edge of the hand window for it to fit. It's kind of a pain in the azz and you need a special angle file that you can buy at Brownells to do it. Depending on how much oversized on hand width you go, you may also have to fit the ratchets. You will know whether you need to fit the ratchets to the new hand if the hand gets stuck on the carry-up stroke. Filing the end faces of the ratchets is a bit tricky as well, as a little filing goes a long way and if you're not careful, you can easily go too far and ruin an extractor and have to buy another and start over. If you do have to fit the ratchets, it's best to apply either some Dykem blue to each ratchet or color with a Sharpie marker so you can see how much material you're removing and where.