My 642 cylinder yoke is FROZEN in the frame. WHY???

I would see this gun as a challenge. I think I would try Hondo's heat method. If that didn't get it I would leave it soaking in some Kroil or Eds Red and everything I was in the shop work the yoke as much as I could. Occasionally heat it up and work it. Eventually it would start loosing up and come. Then I would deal with it. Another thought is to use a die on a grease zert so it would thread in the hole for the yoke screw and try to press it out with hydraulics.
 
Now there's a real clever idea!!

Get a spare yoke screw. Drill the hollow for the spring and plunger all the way thru the screw cap. Mig weld it to the end of an ordinary automotive zert fitting and screw it in. Take it to a garage and have them squirt grease in it with there power grease gun. Although the old manual grease gun would work as well. I haven't used mine in a 'hunerd' years.
 
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I have been in the HVAC business for almost 40 yrs. (Yeah I'm an old guy) - we run into the same type of situations quite often only not with cylinder to frame but with motor shaft to fan or blower hub. Hondo 44 already said what the problem was - dissimilar metals.

The key is to get the part to turn on the shaft in this case that would be the frame. Work on getting the yoke to turn or swing somewhat freely .

I understand that this seems a little simplified but if the yoke will turn in the frame then it will begin to move out. I'm guessing there is quite a bit of galling involved which is going to make things even more difficult .

Like has been said some heat may help.

Good luck and God Speed,

Kirk
 
Had that happen with my 337. The lube actually gummed up so bad the yoke would not move. Gentle tapping with a nylon hammer got it open and I was able to get it off the frame and WOW the thing was really gummed up!Cleaned the bezeezus out of it and then used a dry teflon lube. Never had the problem again. (I think that was during my WD40 stage). Made me a believer in the less is more school of thought. Ya don't need to soak the insides with WD 40. In fact I have come to the conclusion that one should not let WD 40 anywhere near a gun save for perhaps a quick field cleaning of a shotgun that's gotten wet.
 
Now there's a real clever idea!!

Get a spare yoke screw. Drill the hollow for the spring and plunger all the way thru the screw cap. Mig weld it to the end of an ordinary automotive zert fitting and screw it in. Take it to a garage and have them squirt grease in it with there power grease gun. Although the old manual grease gun would work as well. I haven't used mine in a 'hunerd' years.

Gonna try it but do you use a left hand or right hand thread on that zert ?
 
The side plate screws are all right hand thread. I believe the only threads that are left hand on a S&W are those on the newer ejector rods made after about 1960. I think side plate screws are 5-44. Not sure about the newer yoke screws though, think I heard they went to a bigger screw when they went to the plunger type screw there. Never needed to measure one.
 
But, I would just get a die and re thread the zert. You can get zerts with several thread sizes. I doubt 5-44 though.

Another thought is to get a zert you have a tap for or can get one cheap. Tap the plate, then clamp it on fram zert over yoke screw hole and some rubber gasket material around hole. Clamp in place and pressure up. Might work.
 
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I'd just go buy another gun. :)

That is what I am going to suggest to my FIL. If it were my gun this would never have happened, but if it were my gun and this actually happened I wouldn't piss money away on a good gunsmith @ $50/hr or more. I'd just quit trying. I have several other J-frames!!!
 
I agree....chuck it. With that much corrosion, the frame is probably toast anyway. Stainless steel guns are the ideal truck gun though.
 
I found a 410 single shot leaning against a tree once. It had been there long enough the stock was gone and the barrel was bent from gravity. I put it in a bucket of oil and forgot about it. Several years later I was cleaning the barn and found it. It still won't open today. It might even be loaded. I'm sure grandad forgot it was there. This was 20 years or so after he passed. But I wouldn't throw it away. It's a neat wall hanger for the barn.
 
I had the same thing happen to a Model 66 that had been in the
gun safe for about 30 years. Totally locked up. Cylinder wouldn't
move and double action locked up. Put some krol all around release
and later cylinder would open. Put more krol around hammer
and let it let. Eventually worked fine. What happened? WD40 and
30 years.
 
I found a 410 single shot leaning against a tree once. It had been there long enough the stock was gone and the barrel was bent from gravity. I put it in a bucket of oil and forgot about it. Several years later I was cleaning the barn and found it. It still won't open today. It might even be loaded. I'm sure grandad forgot it was there. This was 20 years or so after he passed. But I wouldn't throw it away. It's a neat wall hanger for the barn.

If you want to get serious about getting it operable, soak in 50/50 ATF and Acetone for a month in a sealed (the acetone evaporates very quickly) container. Agitate for quickest results. This is a proven method by scientific testing and far superior results vs. any other off-the-shelf product available.

I used it on a rusted solid, dug up relic, an 1863 Sharps rifle. Soaked it 2 months in the above. It's now shoot able with a replacement stock.

I'm having a problem with the bent barrel due to gravity. Was it so rusty that the metal barrel was perforated?
 
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I'm a big fan of the acetone atf mixture .I have used it myself on several guns and it works very well over time as stated earlier.That said the zert idea is one I wouldn't have thought of but would be very interested to know how it works .So please keep us updated .Btw if you don't want to mess with it anymore I'll pay shipping to my ffl guy .
 
Btw if you don't want to mess with it anymore I'll pay shipping to my ffl guy .

I have one other forum member asking about acquiring it but as I have told him its up to my FIL if he wants to take it back and do what he wants with it. I gave it to him, so it's his to do with what he thinks best.

BUT... if my FIL doesn't want it and the other member doesn't want to futz with a transfer plus shipping I will definitely notify you!
 
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