My first grips.
- Thread starter Xatruch83
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Much better than I can do, but not my cup of tea.
I was going to engrave them but the wood wasn't dry enough.
Make a set smooth and finished( oil is fine ) and then ask the same question, and let's see the other side.
The inletting and a view from aft.
Pic on gun.
If they fit your hands with perfection, it's a win.
Thx
Might start a wood burning thread.
Pic on gun.
If they fit your hands with perfection, it's a win.
Thx
Might start a wood burning thread.
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I like the style of the finger grooves on the grips.
I have to think if you are trying to break into the Custom Grip Market, I would finish those and keep them locked up in a vault! Then after you become an expert on grip making and everyone wants a pair when you retire you can sell your prototype for a million dollars and go down as a legend!
All kidding aside it's really a thing of art and it's in the eye of the beholder as I've heard in the past. This is not new to the world but if you like something then anyone else's opinion really doesn't matter. I own a motorcycle and like others you make it yours, add aftermarket parts to suit your style after all ITS yours!!!!
So yes,
I like the lines of the finger groves they are sharper not smooth like S&W Combats. The penny not so much, again different.
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I have to think if you are trying to break into the Custom Grip Market, I would finish those and keep them locked up in a vault! Then after you become an expert on grip making and everyone wants a pair when you retire you can sell your prototype for a million dollars and go down as a legend!
All kidding aside it's really a thing of art and it's in the eye of the beholder as I've heard in the past. This is not new to the world but if you like something then anyone else's opinion really doesn't matter. I own a motorcycle and like others you make it yours, add aftermarket parts to suit your style after all ITS yours!!!!
So yes,
I like the lines of the finger groves they are sharper not smooth like S&W Combats. The penny not so much, again different.
Cities
Did you make those from a 'block', or start with an existing set and trim them down and reshape them to this style?
There appears to be old checkering not quite removed from the surface behind the outlined area and some in front of it as well out onto the finger grooved area (especially seen on the RH grip).
If you checkered them first, I would have stayed with that and not gone to the wood burning effect.
Either checkered or a plain smooth surface and then a nice wood finish .
Staining the wood you mentioned they needed yet and I agree on that.
Different medallions, use matching S&W if it's for a S&W. and make sure they fit nice and tight in their counter bored holes.
Take time to rotate them in position for best effect when viewing.
The RH (penney) medallion doesn't fit all that well.
Any medallions used need to fit tightly in their recesses.
The LH 'medallion' looks like a commercial made impression stamped right into the wood.
Keep at it,,we all start somewhere!
There appears to be old checkering not quite removed from the surface behind the outlined area and some in front of it as well out onto the finger grooved area (especially seen on the RH grip).
If you checkered them first, I would have stayed with that and not gone to the wood burning effect.
Either checkered or a plain smooth surface and then a nice wood finish .
Staining the wood you mentioned they needed yet and I agree on that.
Different medallions, use matching S&W if it's for a S&W. and make sure they fit nice and tight in their counter bored holes.
Take time to rotate them in position for best effect when viewing.
The RH (penney) medallion doesn't fit all that well.
Any medallions used need to fit tightly in their recesses.
The LH 'medallion' looks like a commercial made impression stamped right into the wood.
Keep at it,,we all start somewhere!
I have a love/hate relationship with finger grooves. They either fit my hands or they don't....if those grooves fit your fingers then they're perfect.
The two issues I would have are the remaining checkering and the orientation of the penny. As it is, the penny is oriented to be parallel to the center line of the stock panel....but when it's on the gun it will be slanted. I would suggest trying the next one with the penny oriented so that it is vertical when the stocks are installed and see which way you like it more.
Depending on the depth of the burns, you may have the potential to create something really unique. Consider continuing to sand (strategically) to remove the rest of the checkering on both panels knowing that some of the burn will also be removed. The effect I would go for would be to have the wood totally smooth with a ghost pattern from the mostly-removed burns that seems to float under the finish. That might require re-burning some specific areas as you sand....you'd have to make a judgement based on what the wood tells you as you work.
I like what you're doing and I like that you're doing stuff. The world needs more people who do stuff. Most of us who do stuff look back on our early work and think "Eww..that's crude" but those first projects are vitally important because they are what started us on our journey. Keep going and bring us along with you...
The two issues I would have are the remaining checkering and the orientation of the penny. As it is, the penny is oriented to be parallel to the center line of the stock panel....but when it's on the gun it will be slanted. I would suggest trying the next one with the penny oriented so that it is vertical when the stocks are installed and see which way you like it more.
Depending on the depth of the burns, you may have the potential to create something really unique. Consider continuing to sand (strategically) to remove the rest of the checkering on both panels knowing that some of the burn will also be removed. The effect I would go for would be to have the wood totally smooth with a ghost pattern from the mostly-removed burns that seems to float under the finish. That might require re-burning some specific areas as you sand....you'd have to make a judgement based on what the wood tells you as you work.
I like what you're doing and I like that you're doing stuff. The world needs more people who do stuff. Most of us who do stuff look back on our early work and think "Eww..that's crude" but those first projects are vitally important because they are what started us on our journey. Keep going and bring us along with you...
I did made them from a block. I had copied some checkering from some grips I purchased but it looked exactly like those grips so I decided to change it a bit.
The Screw and the shape I borrowed from some broken grips I had laying around.
The finger groves fit my hand perfect which is a bonus.
As far as the penny goes my son found it and it has the year I was born so he asked me to put it there because he is keeping the revolver.
The logo is from a press engraver I have.
I'll engrave another set I am starting and I'll post it to ask for opinions.
Thanks for the awesome input.
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They are copies of Guy Hogue's work from the 70's and 80's, the Hogue monogrip and or the Rogers/Safariland grips. I don't know how I feel about that but I love the shape cause I love Guy Hogue's work. Especially don't like the stuff on them. Good wood doesn't need to be stained.
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I've always hated factory original S&W wooden grips. Everyone is built a little differently, but do factory wood S&W grips fit anyone? Those "Uncle Mike's" rubber grips were no improvement. The best move that S&W every made was to put rubber Hogue grips on handguns. S&W combat wooden grips aren't bad, but if memory serves, they were an aftermarket accessory. I'd just as soon whittle off a plow handle for a revolver than use JM wood grips.
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