My first revolver

[Zend0r]

OP- 1st off, welcome to the forums and thanks for joining! This truly is a great community with an incredible wealth of knowledge, not even limited to Smith & Wessons

2nd, great 1st revolver purchase! A 4” pre-lock 686… there’s nothing not to like. Good size, good balance, fun caliber(s), good looks. When someone mentions “Smith & Wesson”, the 686 is always the image that pops in my head. Followed closely by a Model 19, but that’s just me.

I’ll repeat the warning another member issued: Don’t get too attached to your money; this is likely just the beginning. There’s always one more. I’ve attached my latest “family photo”, and after a few short months it’s already outdated by like 3 revolvers! There’s always one more.

Happy hunting and welcome to the family!

Well, in the Netherlands you can own a maximum of 5 guns, So it can't really get that much out of hand. With my Browning over and under, 1911 in .22lr, the revolver and a Tikka t1x on the wish list there's only one spot left. I'm saving that sport for when I find something I truly fall in love with XD

 

[Zend0r]

My first 686 was a 4" square butt too! You did not just choose a good first revolver, perhaps the high water mark of duty revolvers! The 4" is considered by many to have the best balance of any 686 and was commonly used by law enforcement. The Miami Shootout was actually ended by a heroic agent with a 686 very similar to yours. The 4" is a nice compromise of velocity, balance, and carryability (not sure if a word). Congratulations on an outstanding pre-lock 686 as your first revolver. You did very well!

Yea I knew this model was or at least close to what people have used in the force. It was one of the reasons I found it so appealing

Thank you for your kind words, I can't wait to shoot it!

 

[Zend0r]

My "book" also confirms the 1993 year for the subject revolver:
1993 – BMC, BNW, BNZ, BNW, BPB, BPD, BPE, BPF, BPK, BPL, BPR, BPS, BPY, BRA, BRB, BRC, BRM

Supica, Jim; Nahas, Richard. Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson) (p. 491). Gun Digest Media. Kindle Edition.

Awesome. Smith and Wesson have confirmed via e-mail that the revolver was made in November of 1993.

 

[bobsguns]

T

As for the "lock". I did some additional googling, and I found what you are referring to. I can understand most people don't really like the estatics of it to be honest.

There is a "lock delete kit" out there that swaps in pretty easily. I've used it on my Model 648 with great success. It replaces the internal lock parts & also includes a plug for the key cylinder. Well worth the moderate price, IMO.

The reason for the introduction of the whole 581/586/681/686 series was to replace the K-frame Model 19/66 models. The reason was the 19's forcing cone (where the bullet enters the barrel) would often crack after shooting moderate amounts of .357mag ammo. Most of this was the lighter weight bullets, such as the 100gr loading. This regulated the 19 to one of the "carried a lot, shot a little" category.

This led to a huge surging of popularity of the Colt Python. It handled the .357mag with a shrug. The only negative was its price. Then there was the Trooper, which was Colt's offering in a lower priced model.

The 581/586/681/686 series began in 1980. It became an instant best seller. It was cheaper than the Python, quite often was more accurate & had a better trigger. Win-win for S&W.

These models then spun-off several other models such as the 610 (10mm), 29 Classic & 629 (.44mag), 617 (.22LR) & 648 (.22mag). I'm sure I've forgotten a few, someone else can fill those in.

The 686 can be carried, but not easily, IMO. A hefty leather belt along with suspenders can make it happen. They're much better suited to be a nightstand gun, truck gun (in a case, not a holster) or range use.

If you can, get a box or three of .38spl wadcutter ammo. This is a very mild loading of .38 target ammo. Shooting it out of a 686 will feel about like shooting a .22LR. IOW, great fun.

One thing I always do on my revolvers is when I clean the cylinder holes, I dry patch them & then swab them with a lightly coated patch with gun oil. To me this helps with case extraction & helps cut down on powder residue building up a carbon ring. At least it helps for a short while.

I urge you to look at some rosewood finger groove grips. It will REALLY dress up the gun as well as help with the grip in the hot summer shooting periods. They'll run about $75-85 for a decent pair.

Just a moment...

Enjoy your gun!!!!

 

[Zend0r]

There is a "lock delete kit" out there that swaps in pretty easily. I've used it on my Model 648 with great success. It replaces the internal lock parts & also includes a plug for the key cylinder. Well worth the moderate price, IMO.

The reason for the introduction of the whole 581/586/681/686 series was to replace the K-frame Model 19/66 models. The reason was the 19's forcing cone (where the bullet enters the barrel) would often crack after shooting moderate amounts of .357mag ammo. Most of this was the lighter weight bullets, such as the 100gr loading. This regulated the 19 to one of the "carried a lot, shot a little" category.

This led to a huge surging of popularity of the Colt Python. It handled the .357mag with a shrug. The only negative was its price. Then there was the Trooper, which was Colt's offering in a lower priced model.

The 581/586/681/686 series began in 1980. It became an instant best seller. It was cheaper than the Python, quite often was more accurate & had a better trigger. Win-win for S&W.

These models then spun-off several other models such as the 610 (10mm), 29 Classic & 629 (.44mag), 617 (.22LR) & 648 (.22mag). I'm sure I've forgotten a few, someone else can fill those in.

The 686 can be carried, but not easily, IMO. A hefty leather belt along with suspenders can make it happen. They're much better suited to be a nightstand gun, truck gun (in a case, not a holster) or range use.

If you can, get a box or three of .38spl wadcutter ammo. This is a very mild loading of .38 target ammo. Shooting it out of a 686 will feel about like shooting a .22LR. IOW, great fun.

One thing I always do on my revolvers is when I clean the cylinder holes, I dry patch them & then swab them with a lightly coated patch with gun oil. To me this helps with case extraction & helps cut down on powder residue building up a carbon ring. At least it helps for a short while.

I urge you to look at some rosewood finger groove grips. It will REALLY dress up the gun as well as help with the grip in the hot summer shooting periods. They'll run about $75-85 for a decent pair.

Just a moment...

Enjoy your gun!!!!

Thanks for that wealth of information, it is appreciated . I actually got some grips from a buddy of mine who used to own a similar revolver. I do like to the style / look of the original once quite a bit but for my rather small hands the rubber grip will probably be best.

For now I'm just going to shoot it in the original configuration and see how it goes

 

[Sgt. Buzzard]

Well if you only have one more spot in a 5 gun collection and you like S&W there's really only one choice and that's a J frame. The classic would be a model 36, known as a Chiefs Special. Buy used for a no lock version.

If you are allowed to carry, a 442 can be had new without a lock. DA only, no exposed hammer and if you practice enough to get good with it you can shoot anything well. It's a Airweight so nice to carry. A 642 is basically the same except with that shiny aluminum/SS stuff ruining proper concealment. Dark is better, surprise is good.

 

[TellEm]

Nice first revolver! The L frames are great. The first revolver I ever shot was my Dad's Nickel 586. It's my favorite S&W I own.

Be careful! It's easy to get hooked on these guns. My collection has grown to include quite a few now.