My first Smith, trigger problem. Need advice. 10/23 Problem solved.

Just got off the phone with S&W. I told him that I received the gun back, and that the hand replacement didn't solve the problem. He told me that he wants to overnight the gun back to S&W and get that problem solved for me immediately.

After he said that I told him "now we've got another problem," and proceeded to explain that I tried to fix the gun myself, and ruined the trigger. He told me again that he's going to send me a free overnight label, and that he'll notate that "the customer tried to fix the problem. The gun is new." I told him that I'd be willing to pay to replace the trigger and the hammer if needed, but asked him to please keep the gun in the "warranty repair" status, so that I don't have to wait several months to get it back, as it's new, and I just got it last month. He said that shouldn't be a problem.

So I'm happy with the interaction. I don't have to pay shipping, which is a relief. If I have to pay for the trigger and hammer, and nothing else, I'll consider this a success, and a lesson learned. Again, the fact that I've had to be S&W's QC department notwithstanding, I'm happy with the customer service I've received so far.

Just be prepared to receive the gun back with the repair explanation "replaced hand." Again. Frankly, I wonder if S&W isn't ruing its warranty policy because it's apparently being swamped with returns and can't handle the overflow.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
From what I've seen with Smith CS, what you tell the agent goes in the file, but the gunsmith works off the written description you attach. So be sure the description mentions that this is the second return, and in the first one they noted "XXX on the report, but the symptoms did not change. Maybe put a copy of the first report (clearly marked as "previous repair") in with the new letter.
 
Good advice. Thanks.

From what I've seen with Smith CS, what you tell the agent goes in the file, but the gunsmith works off the written description you attach. So be sure the description mentions that this is the second return, and in the first one they noted "XXX on the report, but the symptoms did not change. Maybe put a copy of the first report (clearly marked as "previous repair") in with the new letter.
 
I have the same exact problem you have on my 929. The first 1/8" to 1/4" of the pull is very hard, around 12lbs and once you get past it, it drops to about a 7lb pull. Problem is getting past the 12lb part it is kind of a snap/jerk and spins the cylinder completely to the next round before finishing even half of the stroke.

I've had a local smith work on it and the problem he said was with the trigger. There is a tooth or nipple on the trigger where it interfaces with the cylinder lock. He didn't want to touch it and said that's just the way the triggers going to be with that tooth. Couldn't reshape it or since it barely catches as it is.

Going to send it in to S&W even though he already did an action job on it and see what they do.

Were you able to resolve your issue and is yours the same thing when you took it apart and looked?
 
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My 360 Sc went back 2X, and each time, it returned with the repair chit saying "Replaced hand." Other posters sending items back to S&W have reported the same "solution." IMO, this is the standard knee-jerk initial response. Almost like the initial "dehydration" diagnosis in the ER.

If you like the gun, take it to a local 'smith and have it done correctly.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

LOL. Reminds me of Sig. Until you know what to say when you send it back for a FTF, they will polish the feed ramp and send it back to you, regardless what the actual problem is. The gun industry is geetting like Indian computer support: "Is your computer plugged in?" :rolleyes:
 
Clark Custom Guns did a target trigger action job on a Ruger MKII and a service trigger action job on a S&W model 64 for me.
Shooting the Ruger target trigger is close to having a religious experience, I didn't want the 64 to be that light so got the service trigger job. Best $115.00 best I ever spent, Happy Happy Joy Joy !
Gary
 
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There is a tooth or nipple on the trigger where it interfaces with the cylinder lock. He didn't want to touch it and said that's just the way the triggers going to be with that tooth. Couldn't reshape it or since it barely catches as it is.


Were you able to resolve your issue and is yours the same thing when you took it apart and looked?

I took mine down, and with nothing else but the trigger and the cylinder stop installed, I could tell that it was not the nub at the end of the trigger. The trigger and cylinder stop interacted smoothly, and I didn't feel a hitch at all. So I think it was something else. I really don't know what was causing it.

The gun is back at S&W right now for round 2. I hope it comes back working.
 
LOL. Reminds me of Sig. Until you know what to say when you send it back for a FTF, they will polish the feed ramp and send it back to you, regardless what the actual problem is. The gun industry is geetting like Indian computer support: "Is your computer plugged in?" :rolleyes:

I thought I was pretty clear on the not I wrapped around the revolver in the box.

Hello S&W,

I’m having serious trigger pull problems. When I pull the trigger, after between ¼” and ½” of pull, the trigger stacks up, and hard. It stacks so hard, and so early in the pull, that when I finally break through it, there’s enough force to spin that cylinder way, way too fast, and I finish the entire trigger pull with no control whatsoever. It’s as if I was trying to shoot the darn thing as fast as humanly possible.

When I pull the trigger with the cylinder open, I can see the cylinder stop drop at the beginning of the trigger pull. The hang-up seems to be right before the cylinder stop pops back up through its hole. When that stop pops back up, the trigger lightens and pulls normally the rest of the way through.

I just shot it yesterday hoping it would work the problem out, but it didn’t. The problem is just a little less noticeable now, but it’s still bad.

Thanks,

I told the guy that the problem occurred even with the cylinder open. Granted, my knowledge is extremely limited when it comes to revolvers, but I think that kind of eliminates the hand as a problem. But that's all they did. "Replaced hand." This time I wrote an even longer note, and again wrapped it around the revolver. Won't help unless they actually read it. Here's hoping.
 
It's smooth with just the trigger and cylinder stop installed. It's when there's spring tension that it's really felt. With the cylinder open and pulling back on the cylinder release so I can pull the trigger I feel it as well so it can't be the hand/cylinder interaction.

The more I read yours the more I think it's the same issue. I just got my return label from SW, the rep sounded annoyed. Wondering if I called him right after you or something lol.
 
I'm still trying to figure out how a NIB Smith has that rust inside the gun?!?!? And, yes even after a factory warranty "repair". WOW.

Inexcusable, but hey, he didn't complain about the rust he couldn't have known existed in his note, so ... :rolleyes:
 
In early 90's I bought a new 629, took it to the range and could not hit the 3X4 foot target backing with my loads, which create on large hole @ 25 yds. I adjusted the sights full left and still had to hold off a foot to hit target backing. Sent to S&W, with an explanation, it was returned with sights moved to center. I called, explained that someone needs to read the note and "fix" the problem. They replaced everything! and it still would not shoot accurately. They finally checked the frame which had been drilled off center. New frame, action job and it was finally returned. I had millet night sights installed and now it is perfect. Sometimes it is not what you think, and throwing parts at it can become expensive. New Gun , let them fix it till it is "RIGHT". Patience is needed when a brand new gun will not work. The other 20000 are running fine. Be Safe,
 
I'm still trying to figure out how a NIB Smith has that rust inside the gun?!?!? And, yes even after a factory warranty "repair". WOW.

Me too... especially since it's 686 stainless?

Now, I know stainless is not rust proof, but the OP's gun looks more like the insides of a "blood gun"... appalling if the factory sent it out from the factory like that.

In my 40+ years of buying and owning S&W's, I've never seen the insides of a new stainless gun look like that, and I have a few of them too, with a 625-8 JM and a 986 being the most recent.
 
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Just got shipping notification, should be back on Friday. 16 days, not bad. I called them yesterday, the rep said they are replacing the hammer, trigger, cylinder stop, and ejector.

I called them last time I got shipping notification, and the rep told me the only repair was replacing the hand. I asked the rep if that made any sense, since the problem occurred with the cylinder open. He simply told me "look, I can 100% guarantee you that this will solve the problem. They know what they're doing back there." That eased my mind sufficiently. Remembering that, I'm worried that I may get the revolver back with the original problem. How likely is that? It's gotta be fixed with all those parts replacements, right?
 
You should be good. I found out my issue was the hammer and the trigger sears catching which was the stacking effect. Rounded out the bottom of the hammer sear and its very smooth now. With them replacing all of those internals yours should be functioning flawlessly.
 
You should be good. I found out my issue was the hammer and the trigger sears catching which was the stacking effect. Rounded out the bottom of the hammer sear and its very smooth now. With them replacing all of those internals yours should be functioning flawlessly.

That's exactly what I thought was wrong with mine. It hung up as the sears came in contact. Only I rounded the sears too much. Not enough knowledge about how they interact. It fixed the problem with the hitch, but it caused the double action hammer fall to occur too soon. Really botched it. Oh well. It seems S&W took care of it. We'll see. I hope it comes back with a good trigger. I like everything else about the revolver a lot.
 
My prediction, you will be very happy in 3 weeks. One thing for sure, S&W takes customer service very seriously.

If they only took QC just as seriously, people wouldn't have to find out how seriously they took customer service.
 
Co Th G, I do believe you've nailed it!

It's like my continuing issues with the multiple-returned BG380,"hey, good news! It has multiple strike capability!!!" Shucks, I'd hoped I wouldn't NEED it so often.
But, my 686+ is PERFECT, and is one of my favorite guns.
 
Me too... especially since it's 686 stainless?

Now, I know stainless is not rust proof, but the OP's gun looks more like the insides of a "blood gun"... appalling if the factory sent it out from the factory like that.

In my 40+ years of buying and owning S&W's, I've never seen the insides of a new stainless gun look like that, and I have a few of them too, with a 625-8 JM and a 986 being the most recent.

That was my first thought too. The assembler cut himself, bled all over it, then said "screw it, just put the sideplate on and nobody will notice"
 
Be sure to tell them...

'Officially" you broke the warranty, but if S&W had made it right the first time or when it was sent for repair, you wouldn't be in this mess. It does pee me off that S&W forgoes factory inspection for letting their customers do the dirty work of sending and waiting, hoping it will be fixed. I think I'd let them know that in a very gentle and civil way and that you bought it and sent it back only to have it returned with a rudimentary 'fix' and that you are frustrated. Maybe they'll just give you a new gun or something.
 
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