My first squib load.
- Thread starter NeilMo
- Start date
I think what is being mentioned here is detonation, which can be a bad experience. I have not hand loaded in years, but I was always mindful of squib loads, detonation and a double charged loads. The way I prevented the double charge was to use 2400 powder. A second charge would spill all over the place. Maybe not the most economical way to load, but powder was only 75.00 for an 8 pound keg. Now it is 75.00 a pound
.BTW, I can't remember double charging
STORMINORMAN
Member
I had my first squib in 1970, no powder. I learned from that and added two items to my reloading. First I look in every case before seating a bullet (I ain't in no hurry and don't use a progressive press) and second, although I haven't needed one since that first squib, I carry a range rod in my range bag...
I don't believe so. It's a 6mm wildcat based on .223 cases and Base to ogive distance with that short bullet would have been barely seated. The bullet may have budged a few thousandths, but it was not noticeable by eye.
Pisgah
Member
As a very conservative reloader, I would agree with your caution. But in fact, although there have been reports of detonation assumed to result from partial charges of some powders this phenomenon has never been reproduced in a laboratory setting -- and it has been tried many, many times by many labs. Still, make sure the charge is what it should be and that possible threat is eliminated -- and that's good reloading practice.
As to how far primer-only shots will move the bullet it depends on several factors. Lead or jacketed bullet, size of chamber mouth/forcing cone, smoothness/roughness of the interior forcing cone surface -- heck, maybe even the phase of the moon, who knows. But generally a jacketed bullet is more likely to tie up the gun by lodging between chamber and cone, while lead is more likely to advance far enough to allow cylinder rotation for a second, unfortunate, shot.
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In the originally mentioned .44 Mag, it's "pop" then "BOOM" then the sound like a squealing pig, as you run around looking for the missing fingers.
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Wrong. Please don't spread old wives tales about detonation.
kbm6893
Member
I’ve only been reloading for 8 years but I am pretty OCD. I have never had a squib round and never will, as long as I stick to my technique. I load in a single stage press and don’t intend to ever change that. I weigh every single charge. I used to drop powder in 50 cases and then check with a flashlight but once about 5 years ago my hand bumped something and I spilled the whole case into the tray with about 46 cases filled with powder so I had to do it all again. So now I drop powder, seat bullet, and then put into tray. Benefit to that is if I get called away I can stop whenever I want to and not leave open cases with powder out.
gwpercle
Member
It's not the squib that does the damage ... it's when the shooter isn't paying attention , change in recoil , report, no hole in target ...
...And pulls the trigger again ...that's when the damage happens !
You're Good !
And you get Extra Points and a big ATTABOY for being aware and catching the subtle signs of a squib and not firing another shot ... or two !
50+ years ago when I did it ,( first and only time ), the bullet lodged IN the forcing cone. .. I had no idea what was wrong and probably would have tried to shoot again but the Good Lord looks after children and foolish high school kids just starting to reload ammo .
That incident made me "Super Anal-OCD" about getting one , and only one , charge of powder in every case .
Live and learn ,
Gary
...And pulls the trigger again ...that's when the damage happens !
You're Good !
And you get Extra Points and a big ATTABOY for being aware and catching the subtle signs of a squib and not firing another shot ... or two !
50+ years ago when I did it ,( first and only time ), the bullet lodged IN the forcing cone. .. I had no idea what was wrong and probably would have tried to shoot again but the Good Lord looks after children and foolish high school kids just starting to reload ammo .
That incident made me "Super Anal-OCD" about getting one , and only one , charge of powder in every case .
Live and learn ,
Gary
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For those that disagree with my last post about squib load or detonation!
Please explain!? Ruger No 1, case forming, 243 brass, I don't remember which powder but a double charge was still below the min. in the reloading manual. Working with 5 rounds only, used NO FILLER, rounds 1 & 2 fired and formed the new case! Round 3 fired and blew the forearm off the barrel and split the but stock at the retaining screw. The breech block had to be pried open and the extractor was broken. The brass had a channel burned through the rim from the primer hole toward the bottom of the receiver. There was no bullet stuck in the barrel. The brass had to be driven out of the chamber. I pulled apart the remaining 2 rounds and the powder weight was what I had used on all 5 rounds! I learned one very important lesson, always use filler when case forming(it keeps the powder charge against the primer).
Through the years I have successfully formed 22 Hornet to .224 K-Chuker, 223 - 7MMTCU, 22Jet to 256 Win Mag and have only blown up 1 gun!
jcelect
Please explain!? Ruger No 1, case forming, 243 brass, I don't remember which powder but a double charge was still below the min. in the reloading manual. Working with 5 rounds only, used NO FILLER, rounds 1 & 2 fired and formed the new case! Round 3 fired and blew the forearm off the barrel and split the but stock at the retaining screw. The breech block had to be pried open and the extractor was broken. The brass had a channel burned through the rim from the primer hole toward the bottom of the receiver. There was no bullet stuck in the barrel. The brass had to be driven out of the chamber. I pulled apart the remaining 2 rounds and the powder weight was what I had used on all 5 rounds! I learned one very important lesson, always use filler when case forming(it keeps the powder charge against the primer).
Through the years I have successfully formed 22 Hornet to .224 K-Chuker, 223 - 7MMTCU, 22Jet to 256 Win Mag and have only blown up 1 gun!
jcelect
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Detonation has been proven to be a myth many years ago by competent authorities. Let's not beat this dead horse.
Like I said! "Please explain!?"
OLDSTER
Member
In nearly 60 years of shooting, I have fortunately experienced only 3 squibs ( of course not counting rim-fire, and I don't reload ). And all three occurred within a one month period, a few years ago. All Fiocchi FMJ .38 sp. All same manufacture lot. Two different snubbies were involved. I had a great experience with Fiocchi running down the problem; they were very helpful, and pleased that I worked it out with them. They replaced the two boxes involved with 6 boxes new. 
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Glad the projectile popped out easily.
A buddy had a squib, or a barrel-lodged bullet, in a rifle at our range a couple years ago and, luckily, several of us heard the different sort of report characteristic of something strange and our bud cleared his rifle for a look. Factory ammo BTW. We used a wood dowel rod to force the projectile BACK out of the barrel from the muzzle. We started with a rod cut just an inch or two longer than required to contact the stuck projectile and gently taped it in with a hammer. As the rod disappeared we added additional short pieces of rod into the muzzle and repeated the process - gently. It helps, of course, to have appropriately sized dowel around that comes pretty close to bore diameter.
We use the same process to "slug" barrels except we use appropriately sized soft lead fishing weights JUST larger than bore diameter and we start from the breech. We keep a box of various diameter and length dowels and they come in handy once in a while.
A buddy had a squib, or a barrel-lodged bullet, in a rifle at our range a couple years ago and, luckily, several of us heard the different sort of report characteristic of something strange and our bud cleared his rifle for a look. Factory ammo BTW. We used a wood dowel rod to force the projectile BACK out of the barrel from the muzzle. We started with a rod cut just an inch or two longer than required to contact the stuck projectile and gently taped it in with a hammer. As the rod disappeared we added additional short pieces of rod into the muzzle and repeated the process - gently. It helps, of course, to have appropriately sized dowel around that comes pretty close to bore diameter.
We use the same process to "slug" barrels except we use appropriately sized soft lead fishing weights JUST larger than bore diameter and we start from the breech. We keep a box of various diameter and length dowels and they come in handy once in a while.
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