My k-22

[Fackler Rebel]

My K22 according to what some folks told me here, was made in 1957, the year I was in the second grade. So I am keen on the gun, also have a Model 57, and have about 500 in the gun. Blueing is about 80 percent I guess with original grips. The problem I have, is every now and then in single action, it jams up and won't let you pull the hammer back but about half way and of course the cylinder doesn't rotate either. I pulled the side plates off and looked at it good and didn't see anything abnormal. Lightly oiled it and put it back together. Shot 50 or 60 rounds thru her and she jammed on me again. Does anybody have any good experience with S&W repair shop?

 

[crsides]

check to see if the cylinder face has sufficient clearance with the barrel. Lead can build up on either or both surfaces and prevent the cylinder from turning. Scrub these areas with a wire cleaning brush and some gun cleaning solvents if there appears to be cylinder/bbl contact.

Let us know the outcome.


Charlie

 

[Big Ranch]

timing

Sounds like the timing is off to me...a good gunsmith ought to be able to straighten it out

 

[nedlate]

The problem I have, is every now and then in single action, it jams up and won't let you pull the hammer back but about half way and of course the cylinder doesn't rotate either.

Fackler Rebel-There is a good chance the ejector rod is bent causing the cylinder to come in contact with the forcing cone at certain points. Easy fix for a gunsmith. I have no experience with S&W repair shop so can't help you there.
Ed

 

[Fackler Rebel]

Thanks guys. I don't think there is any conflict between the forcing cone and the cylinder. IF S&W won't charge me two arms and two legs, I think I'll send it to them.

Reb

 

[nedlate]

Thanks guys. I don't think there is any conflict between the forcing cone and the cylinder. IF S&W won't charge me two arms and two legs, I think I'll send it to them.

Reb

An easy way to check the cylinder/forcing cone gap is to first make sure the gun is unloaded! Then pull the hammer back just enough to get the cylinder stop to drop free of the cylinder. You can now turn the cylinder by hand, hold the revolver up to the light and watch the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone as you turn it. You will see if they come in contact or comes close. Does it only do it when loaded? If so it is possible there is something (burnt powder, ect.) under the extractor.
Good luck!
Ed

 

[Fackler Rebel]

There is plenty of slop between the cylinder face and the forcing cone, all six cylinders. In fact, there may be too much slop. Even though I am not a amrorer by MOS, I know a little bit about mechanics and guns. Like I posted earlier, I pulled, actually held the pistol over a towel and tapped the plate loose. Really tight tolerances. Didn't see anything obvious, oiled it lightly, and put the plate back on. Shot 45 times, smooth as silk. I never shoot double action, always single action mode. Then she just stops. The lady at S&W told me they could service my pistol, but no re-bluing and I would never reblue it anyway. It shows the marks of time, just like me. I was hoping that some of my S&W buddies had that experience, (S&W repair service) and could offer me some basic requirments and their experience with S&W repair/refurb of pistols.
Love the little .22, still like shooting at empty coke cans off my back deck, I live in the country, thank you Jesus. Want to keep it going and know that my grandkids will love her as much as I do.

Reb

 

[DCWilson]

If you have a small piece of crud trapped inside the trigger return slide, it might be catching on the coil spring and preventing full compression. You might also have a tiny metal shaving that periodically gets caught between the upper arm of the trigger and the hammer toe that slides in underneath it when the gun is cocked. I would recommend a complete teardown cleaning with toothbrush and toothpicks, if you are willing to do that. If not, take the sideplate off again, hose the action down with the best gun oil you have on hand, move the action a lot, and blow it mostly dry with some canned air. Then repeat.

The idea of looking for something trapped under the ejector star is also a good one.

You'd be amazed how often a simple cleaning will take care of something that feels like it could be a major steel-on-steel conflict.

 

[Mike McLellan]

My sweet little pre-17 does the same thing. It doesn't happen often, and only after a few dozen rounds have been shot. I can't help but think that some crud is getting under the ejector star and forcing it back just enough to catch on something. Or maybe I just dozed off and dreamed the whole thing. At my age, I can never be sure.

 

[Fackler Rebel]

Me too, more and more often.