I'm new owner of my first wheeled gun 43C 22LR and waiting to get a shipping labels to send my new gun back. From the first shots my emty casings stuck in the cylinder and doen't want to be ejected and now after 200 rounds i use rubber hummer to bang them out. I found that a lots of ppl who have this aluminium marvels have similar problems. Even read on other forums that they replace new cylinders have the same problems. My question is: anyone who own this gun have easily to eject emty casings? I know about cleaning and 22LR is dirty and different ammo belive me i tried everything-doen't work. Ti shame i really like to shoot this small gun, Thank you for reading
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My New 43CF Revolver going to warranty for repair
- Thread starter Mikas46
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Jim Watson
Member
It isn't just the M43C, my CM and Charter .22s are also subject to sticky extraction and I have read of many more. The fix is a proper finish reamer, I hope you get a company warranty clerk who knows that. If not, there is a lot of discussion of sources and methods here.
Unfortunately the guy on Castboolits who used a precision hone to smooth up cylinders and size throats at very moderate cost had to take medical retirement.
Unfortunately the guy on Castboolits who used a precision hone to smooth up cylinders and size throats at very moderate cost had to take medical retirement.
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Alk8944
US Veteran
Extraction issues are common across the S&W rim-fire revolvers. DO NOT use any striking device to force extraction as eventually will break the head of the extractor from the extractor shank. They are not one piece, they are brazed together and the joint will break. Carry a cleaning rod and bronze brush and brush the chambers out every two or three cylinder full.
If you want a permanent fix buy a .22 LR cylinder finish reamer and clean up the chambers. You can get the reamer from Brownell's. When you get done someone on the forum will be happy o buy the used reamer from you.
If you want a permanent fix buy a .22 LR cylinder finish reamer and clean up the chambers. You can get the reamer from Brownell's. When you get done someone on the forum will be happy o buy the used reamer from you.
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I’ve got a 43C. The first ammo I ran through it was Aguilla HV. I had to practically hammer out the empties. Aguilla SV ejected with less effort and CCI SV and lower-price Eley took even less than that. With use, and several cleaning sessions, it’s gotten a lot easier overall. By all means get it checked out but I think you’ll find ammo choice and wearing in will make a difference.
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My S&W Model 17-3 and a whole lot of other S&W's .22 revolvers do the same thing. In my case, it's one chamber that starts getting hard to empty after a few rounds, but it's not as bad as yours. If you try to do it yourself with a finish reamer and you are not careful, your chamber(s) will become deformed (oval, instead of round); that's why I haven't monkeyed with mine.
I haven't tried polishing the chambers, either.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wDLaPqST4s[/ame]
I haven't tried polishing the chambers, either.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wDLaPqST4s[/ame]
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Are the shell casings sticking on multiple cylinders or just one particular cylinder? Some hotter ammo my cause a shell casing to expand more and stick. I have a M43c occasionally one would stick. I had a gunsmith do a trigger job and smooth out the ejector rod and polish to cylinder’s. I have not had any sticking.
Sticky ejection of spent cases is a common problem with 22LR revolvers, regardless of brand or age. I've experienced it with S&W, High Standard, Chiappa, Rossi, and even Heritage revolvers.
Using a finish reamer to clean up the cylinders has worked 100% on all of mine.
Is it possible to "screw up" the chambers? Sure. Some people are so mechanically UN-inclined that they can screw up almost anything.
But if you get a quality reamer, and use it according to the instructions, it's pretty hard to mess it up. A quality reaming tool has a "pilot" that fits into the throats of the cylinder and it serves as a guide to ensure that the cutting portion of the reamer is properly aligned (and STAYS properly aligned) with the cylinder bore as you ream the cylinder chambers.
Use plenty of cutting oil, only rotate the reamer in a clock-wise direction, and let the tool do the work (don't force it) and it's really pretty hard to go wrong.
That's been my experience. YMMV...
Using a finish reamer to clean up the cylinders has worked 100% on all of mine.
Is it possible to "screw up" the chambers? Sure. Some people are so mechanically UN-inclined that they can screw up almost anything.
But if you get a quality reamer, and use it according to the instructions, it's pretty hard to mess it up. A quality reaming tool has a "pilot" that fits into the throats of the cylinder and it serves as a guide to ensure that the cutting portion of the reamer is properly aligned (and STAYS properly aligned) with the cylinder bore as you ream the cylinder chambers.
Use plenty of cutting oil, only rotate the reamer in a clock-wise direction, and let the tool do the work (don't force it) and it's really pretty hard to go wrong.
That's been my experience. YMMV...
sigp220.45
US Veteran
You can rent a reamer from 4D in Kalispell - no need to buy one.
Its a shame to have to do this on a brand new gun. I doubt Smith will fix it right, though.
Its a shame to have to do this on a brand new gun. I doubt Smith will fix it right, though.
Rpg
Member
Welcome to Smith 22 revolvers
This is a common feature. You can ream the chambers a bit or polish them. In any event, a 15 minute job for any competent gunsmith.
You can send it back to Smith, although things usually go more quickly if your local gunsmith does it while you wait.
This is a common feature. You can ream the chambers a bit or polish them. In any event, a 15 minute job for any competent gunsmith.
You can send it back to Smith, although things usually go more quickly if your local gunsmith does it while you wait.
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You'll find no shortage of issues with the 43C on this forum. Consider yourself lucky that the rounds went off to begin with.
Doug M.
Member
I am not sure what S&W does to make this such a common problem, but Elmer Keith was reporting it in the mid-50s. I am pretty sure that it was in "Sixguns" that I saw this the first time.
cgt4570
SWCA Member
Harmless way to polish the chambers at home:
-find some of the oversized Q-tips
-get some Flitz metal polish
-cut the Q-tip off and chuck it in a drill
-use Flitz on the Q-tip at low speed to polish the chambers
-find some of the oversized Q-tips
-get some Flitz metal polish
-cut the Q-tip off and chuck it in a drill
-use Flitz on the Q-tip at low speed to polish the chambers
When using the finishing reamer, back it out often and wipe clean so de accumulated cuttings don't score the cylinder walls. Only turn the reamer clockwise, and use plenty of cutting oil.
Watch carefully the chamber mouth, don't cut anything off the chamber mouth seat. This could cause misfires.
I've done 7 or 8 revolvers, and all have been "resolved" by the reaming.
Watch carefully the chamber mouth, don't cut anything off the chamber mouth seat. This could cause misfires.
I've done 7 or 8 revolvers, and all have been "resolved" by the reaming.
slabside2
Member
Mother‘s mag wheel polish some Q-tips and a Dremel with a very small tip.
A Dremel with a felt tip on medium speed and I can’t emphasize this enough take it slow and don’t go too far into the chamber after you’ve done the chambers use some Q-tips and swirl them around to clean the excess out then clean all the cylinder holes like you would as you were cleaning it after shooting it you’ll see it will make a world of difference again be careful with the Dremel
A Dremel with a felt tip on medium speed and I can’t emphasize this enough take it slow and don’t go too far into the chamber after you’ve done the chambers use some Q-tips and swirl them around to clean the excess out then clean all the cylinder holes like you would as you were cleaning it after shooting it you’ll see it will make a world of difference again be careful with the Dremel
In the thread's title, what's the "F" in the 43CF model number. I don't see the "F" on S&W's webpage.
https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/j-frame-103043
https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/j-frame-103043
Doug M.
Member
A hint at the user experience?
