Narrowed my first AR15 down to 4: help

Rebs,

Thanks for the insight on the 20-inch barrel. I have two consecutive SN lowers begging to be built. I was considering building a Laurel & Hardy pair: a pistol & a 24" stainless fluted barrel A2 style rifle. Now I'm rethinking this.
 
for my next AR I want a 20 inch barrel. I am seriously considering the Windham Weaponry Varmint Exterminator.
I have not owned a Colt Match Target with 20 inch barrel, but a friend gave me his for a month to work up a load for it for him and to be honest it just did not shoot as well as I or he thought it would. Perhaps he just got a sub standard one or perhaps that's all the accuracy they are capable of. I don't know, He sold it and has not bothered to buy another one.

I know they are booked to the hilt and going full bore. But you might look into Rock River for a 20" upper. They also go to 24". Cood company and quality pieces.
 
OP-

Did not read all the responses to your question, but since you live in CA, the most important thing you can do is make sure your gun is legally configured. Do not use magazines over 10 rounds is you are doing a fixed magazine build, do not use the "Mag Magnet" or similar tools in your bullet buttoned rifle, and do not buy a rifle that is listed as banned by name and model. Yes, there are some Colt rifles that are legal in CA, but there are many more that are not. Take the time to read and understand the laws. It is not worth the loss of your freedom and gun rights to get this wrong.

Good luck with your new rifle...
 
Just my 2 cents worth.
I own a Sport and I am completely happy with it. With my handloads it shoots a 1/2 inch group at 100 yds. With that being said, for my next AR I want a 20 inch barrel. I am seriously considering the Windham Weaponry Varmint Exterminator.
I have not owned a Colt Match Target with 20 inch barrel, but a friend gave me his for a month to work up a load for it for him and to be honest it just did not shoot as well as I or he thought it would. Perhaps he just got a sub standard one or perhaps that's all the accuracy they are capable of. I don't know, He sold it and has not bothered to buy another one.

I have been looking at specifications for other brands of "Modern Sporting Rifles"...there are quite a few that actually advertise "2 to 2.5MOA" you just have to check the fine print. This does lend a lot of credence to Foxtrot's 3MOA platform post. It just doesnt apply to the Sport.
 
I pulled the trigger on 3 stripped lowers!!!!!!

One Spike's Calico Jack for $109 IN STOCK at Golden State Tactical;
Two Surplus Ammo's for $69 a piece at Atomic Tactical.

What can I say, I got the bug...I went this way because of about 30 hours of online research and the fact I have a neighbor friend who is going to help.

I am ending this thread and will be starting a new one for my build!
Thanks all.
 
Hopefully you had those uppers transferred as "Other" (which technically they are per ATF), and not rifles, just in case you decide one of them should be an AR Pistol :) .......if thats even allowed in CA? Anyway, the build steps are essentially the same for a rifle or pistol.

I just finished my first full build. An AR pistol which I hope to get to the range sometime soon after finding a headspace gauge to check it with. I'd built lowers before which are pretty easy, and this was my first upper build. Uppers, while also not complicated, did take more muscle and some solid tools and a good bench vise.

Anyway, my advice is to buy a set of quality tools up front and/or see what your buddy does/doesn't have: Brownells Upper Vice Block (with insert); Lower magwell vice block. Roll pin starter punches. Roll pin punches. Basic Brass punch set. Good Barrel Nut wrench (PRI, etc). Torque wrench (for barrel nut). All in one AR Tool for flashhiders/comps and buffer tube castle nut. Auto punch if you plan to stake the castle nut. Snap ring pliers are handy for Delta ring setups. Spare little springs and pins which have a tendancy to go flying. And extra barrel nuts in case you just can't get one torqued to line up for the gas tube. Lastly, if you plan on a low profile gas block to perhaps fit under a free float tube, be sure to look into a gas block dimple jig by BRDE (sold by Brownells) that works with Vltor and Larue gas blocks and maybe others.

Anyway....off to the garage to strategize my next build, an old school lower with an A2 stock to accompany a Colt A2 Hbar upper I accidentally bought :)

Have fun!
 
Thanks Longhorn90,

Well...I got the bug!

I bought the 3 stripped lowers and just saw a sale at PSA for a blem lower for $49 and I am shaking...

I have REALLY enjoyed researching for triggers and uppers the past couple of nights. It sure beats watching CNN..!

I think I have my upper narrowed to a 14.5 midlength. I am still pondering on the trigger set up. I am sure I want a single stage and thinking of a Giessele...but open to input.

Is there an addiction hotline or support group forum for AR15 enthusiasts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hahaha
 
New to the group here but thought I'd give you my preference..i have the Spikes Tactical AR-15 and love it..I also have a M&P 15/22...there 2 of my favorites...right up there with my AK. Had the 22 conversion kit for the spikes but got a new M&P for a trade of my Beretta NEOS with the carbine conversion kit.So now I don't have to fool around with swapping out the action to shoot indoors and outdoors.


C360_2012-10-13-19-24-45_zps478cfbd6.jpg
 
Last edited:
It is hard to go wrong with your choices. If it were me, I would go Colt or full S&W (not sport). If I lived in Cali, I woul look hard at a new Mini 14, since you would not have to have a bullet button for them. Heck, even if I didn't live in Cali, I would look at one. The new ones are supposed to be substantially more accurate than the old ones, although a typically AR is most likely more accurate. I just hate to have a neutered version of the real thing.
 
Last edited:
Just a few thoughts here; First the blasted chart! Mil Spec hill stichk! I remember not that long ago the "TDP"(Technical Data Package) that gave all the mil-spec requirements for a real military M-4 found its way into Bushmasters HQ! The stink was over them stamping M4 on their ARs, Colt sued over the rights to the name and LOST!
Second; FN is the one building the majority of M-16 A4s and A4s for the military, Colt WAS building the M4 until just recently when Remington got the new contract!(Yeah my heads still swimming over that one!) Remington owns Bushmaster at the moment so we know who's building M4s now.
Third; barrel twist 1/7 was ordered by the Marine Corp when the new A2 rolled out. They wanted a heavier bullet so they could hit out to 500 yards, plus the old 1/12 wouldn't stabilize the M-856 tracer round. Plus the recent introduction of the 77gr. OTM OR Mk.262 round demands the 1/7 twist.
As far as I'm concerned we're not going to be hunting terrorists or assaulting fortresses any time soon. We buy ARs for the sporting purposes (and self defense)and the accuracy of said system is there for varmint and predator hunting. 1/9 will handle the majority of bullets out there unless you feel the need to go beyond say 69 grains, and I've heard nothing but good things about the 1/8 5R barrels too!
What do I have? At the moment a Mini 14 580 series, and a SIG 556, but I like being different.;) If I were to buy an AR today I'd look hard at the Smith line up as well as Windam Weaponery they are the old Bushmaster after all
And that PMC 55gr. "X-TAC" is good stuff, buy cheap and stack it deep! Dale
 
just a follow up...

I guess I got in at the right time...2 lowers for $70 and a Jolly Roger from Spikes for $115. I build out my Spikes with a Palmetto upper, BCM bolt carrier, and some mag furniture. Added a ALG Battle trigger upgrade.

It awesome - everytime I pull the trigger it goes boom really loud!

Adding a red dot scope this week and that should do it.

Sold the other two lowers for $350 a piece and paid for my first build!

For my second build I just picked up a SW stripped lower and going for a 20 inch barrel with expensive scope and 2 stage trigger.

thanks again all...
 
Get the Colt. Order of preference:
1) 6940
2) 6920
3) 6520
I believe these are the only true mil spec guns generally available
 
Get the Colt. Order of preference:
1) 6940
2) 6920
3) 6520
I believe these are the only true mil spec guns generally available

That's the funniest thing I've read. Thanks for the chuckle this morning. I needed it.

A civilian rifle will never be "milspec". We don't have the option for select fire..
 
Sport is a very good value, good reliability, superior limited lifetime warantry.
accurate, i.e. .651moa.
enlightened barrel protection and twist.
i'd use the saved money for a comprehensive parts package and the beginning acquisition of reloading accouterments and components.
with all the negatives toward gun owners, reloading is still under the radar.
 
yeah, reloading might be under the radar, but apparently i thought i was the only one considering reloading 5.56 to beat the heat...turns out, can't get dies or most of the components anymore frequently than pmags...lol...the guy literally laughed at me when i said i was thinkin of getting into reloading...i have never felt like an idiot in a gun-shop until then...
 
yeah, reloading might be under the radar, but apparently i thought i was the only one considering reloading 5.56 to beat the heat...turns out, can't get dies or most of the components anymore frequently than pmags...lol...the guy literally laughed at me when i said i was thinkin of getting into reloading...i have never felt like an idiot in a gun-shop until then...

Best bet is to go in on a reloader that is a deluxe unit with 2 buddies, and split the cost. Spending literally 5-10 minutes to load 1 bullet gets to sucking wind really fast.
A full-tilt progressive unit that makes for a small assembly line is the only way to go in the long run if you reload.

Unless you reload for match shooting; or literally only put 20-30 rounds downrange in a shooting session.

Of course, all this is under the premise that you will start reloading about mid 2014, when everything becomes fully available again.
 
just a follow up...

I guess I got in at the right time...2 lowers for $70 and a Jolly Roger from Spikes for $115. I build out my Spikes with a Palmetto upper, BCM bolt carrier, and some mag furniture. Added a ALG Battle trigger upgrade.

Sold the other two lowers for $350 a piece and paid for my first build!.

I just picked up my first two AR's and am new to this section of the forum. I read your posts and was wondering if you ever pulled the trigger, looking back at what prices were just 6 months ago.... You really lucked out. I bet you wish you would have bought 1,000 lowers!

I bought S&W's because of the pricing, now I'm just learning if they are good guns. At the prices I see, I am thinking of selling one to almost pay for the other!
 
@ rojo - lol no kidding...i shoot some bulk rounds for plinking fun, but i would probably be most interested in loading for precision shots, repeatedly burrowing the exact same ragged X in the target...i want my weapon and ammo to outperform what i am capable of doing, that way i have no-one but myself to blame if i ever fail...like a PMI i knew once said, "Precision is the practice of practicingbetter ways of practicing..." lol...
 
Back
Top