Need 9mm reloading elp.

[old&slow]

For a person new to reloading, I always recommend getting a good reloading manual and reading it,, at least twice. Triple check, at least, your load and measurements. Never use information you hear or read on the internet,,, unless you check it against a good reloading manual.
Too many typo's,, fat fingers,, bad memory,, bravo sierra,, etc..

A good reloading manual,, a good powder scale,, and a decent dial caliber are the first things you need besides a reloading press.

I like Lyman Reloading Handbooks. But I also have and use Hornady, Sierra ,, Speer,, and others..

Reloading is a fun and interesting hobby by itself.. Good luck

 

[venomballistics]

First ... I migt haz a little trublz hitting the write queez an puking the rite words.
No man hear is immune two doing sew.
so .. do you want to really trust 6.4 grins of anything off of a for rum post?

Now that I think I have illustrated the issue well enough .. lets get down to biz.
Get a manual .. Speer and Lyman of current print seem the canonical pair around here.
next ... Hodgdon, Alliant, and western powder co all offer scads of data for free.
click on the things on their respective pages and you'll find it.

most all of us here work hard to keep your gun parts out of your face. However, we are always one typo away from a failed mission.
Safe load development does not come from lazy research methods.

part of the data one might gain here, such as powder type, might be taken as gospel.
the charge weight of said powder ..... not so much.

for example ... I might report that CFE pistol behind a 125 grain XTP is an excellent load at 45 grains ..... or was it 4.5?

 

[MichiganScott]

What I find consistently scary is when a newbie to handloading wants the experts (nameless, faceless people behind a keyboard) to spoon feed them the cheapest, most accurate load for their new gun. I stopped listing any loads years ago because I felt that I was not doing them any favors and may actually be endangering them and our sport.

Even after twelve of the first sixteen posters recommend buying a manual, the OP steadfastly insists that he has no use for a manual because all he needs are 1-2 recipes so he and his wife can go shooting. I wonder what the OP's response might be if one of those recipes, or his lack of knowledge of basic safety and reloading procedures, were to cause his or her handgun to spontaneously disassemble and produce permanent injury?

 

[Bugkiller99]

I've posted this before, but I'll do it again for the benefit of the OP. I decided to start reloading just at the time certain events happened that caused reloading components to disappear. No primer, no powder, no bullets, even equipment was scarce.

In retrospect, that was the BEST thing. I could not reload, so I got several manuals, read them end to end. Lurked around this forum, asking newbie questions. Found a mentor, who gave me a whole weekend of his time just to show me proper reloading.

Then, finally, components began to appear. Had to stick to one caliber, one bullet, one powder, because that's all I could find.

So, learn to reload. Enjoy the experience, not just the product.

 

[k22fan]

I'll try to boil this down to its simplest.

Even though they are using only the same component ammunition manufactures do not use a fixed "recipe." They perform pressure tests of cartridges coming off the line and adjust the powder charge up or down to keep the average pressure consistent while using up different lots of components. Reloaders have more variables in their components and their assembly. To be prudent we have to begin with the manuals' starting loads then make our own evaluation of pressure signs as we work the load up. Some times I have judged pressure to be too high well below my manuals maximum charge and a few times my manual's maximum charge was not enough for the gun to function. Lacking pressure testing equipment a reloading manual's section on how to evaluate pressure is the most important tool I own.

Oh, and just because any good thread needs an argument, you do not need to lay out the dough for a dial caliper. My old vernier (?spelling) calipers are just as accurate.

 

[joeintexas]

Ok Trigger9, I have got a couple of recipes for you to ponder over. You will see why everyone is advising you to read as many manuals as you can get your hands on, the results can vary greatly.
First the powder you chose Hodgon Power Pistol doesn't list a recipe for FMJ 115 gr. 9mm. They do list for LRN (lead round nose) however.
Starting load 4.9gr.
this produces 1124 ft. per second out of a 4 inch barrel.
28,800 PSI.
CCI 500 small pistol primer.
COL(cartridge overall length) 1.10

Maximum load 5.4 gr.
1209 ft. per second out of a 4 inch barrel.
33,800 PSI.
Same primer, same COL. 1.10


Checking my Speer #14 manual it list 115gr. TMJ RN.
Pay attention here, starting charge 6.2 gr.
1122 ft. per second
OAL 1.135

Max. charge 6.7
Ft. per second 1212.
Max charge should be used with Caution!

Check other online sources like Handloaders.com. I really hope you decide to invest in a few manuals though. I don't personally load any of the powders you listed so this is the best I can do. Be careful!

 

[fredj338]

Above is why I like multiple vetted sources & then avg the start, mid & max. I never use starting data. IMO, just wasting components & bbl wear. Unless you are looking for a low pressure load, no reason to use starting data.
I like avg midrange data. Work that up or down, you'll find a load you & your gun like. Never exceed avg max data UNLESS you understand what is going on & have some driving need to squeeze another 50-100fps out of any cartridge. Which IMO, you really don't.

 

[Arub]

In case my pm didn't go through (not in sent mail box) the Alliant guide/manual calls for 6.7 grains of Power Pistol with a min OAL of 1.12" with a 115 grain FMJ and a Winchester Small Pistol Primer for a velocity of 1280 ft/sec out of a 4" barrel. This is a max load. I normally run at a 95% of max load, others may prefer 90%.

 

[fredj338]

In case my pm didn't go through (not in sent mail box) the Alliant guide/manual calls for 6.7 grains of Power Pistol with a min OAL of 1.12" with a 115 grain FMJ and a Winchester Small Pistol Primer for a velocity of 1280 ft/sec out of a 4" barrel. This is a max load. I normally run at a 95% of max load, others may prefer 90%.

Due to variations in guns, it's prudent to back off a minimum of 5% of Alliant Max data & work up in 1/10gr increments.

 

[rwsmith]

Speer #9

Due to variations in guns, it's prudent to back off a minimum of 5% of Alliant Max data & work up in 1/10gr increments.

Speer #9 insisted that every load be started from the lowest level and only if the exact components were used. I thought that was rather excessive and didn't follow that advice unless I wanted a really light load. One thing that they surprisingly did say was that "any load under maximum was safe for revolvers" and something about semis having to work the action. They didn't mention anything about sticking a bullet in the barrel. Maybe back then they thought people had sense enough to figure that out for themselves, something you don't see any more. Anyway, I experimented carefully with super light loads enough to satisfy my curiosity. Another warning was that jacketed bullets weren't suited for low velocity because the jackets could stick in the barrel. I don't know if the new technology in manufacturing bullets eliminates this completely.

 

[fredj338]

Speer #9 insisted that every load be started from the lowest level and only if the exact components were used. I thought that was rather excessive and didn't follow that advice unless I wanted a really light load. One thing that they surprisingly did say was that "any load under maximum was safe for revolvers" and something about semis having to work the action. They didn't mention anything about sticking a bullet in the barrel. Maybe back then they thought people had sense enough to figure that out for themselves, something you don't see any more. Anyway, I experimented carefully with super light loads enough to satisfy my curiosity. Another warning was that jacketed bullets weren't suited for low velocity because the jackets could stick in the barrel. I don't know if the new technology in manufacturing bullets eliminates this completely.

The issue with low vel jhp or jsp is the jacket can drag & slow in the bbl & the heavier core squirt out, leaving the jacket. Not likely with current bullet styles. The old straight half jackets were an issue. Still, if you want to shoot low vel loads, stick with lead or coated lead. As long as the bullet leaves the bbl, good to go. Some of the CAS shooters are running lead bullets so slow you can watch them leave the bbl & go to the target, like 500fps.

 

[shotgun693]

I read, several sources, that anytime you changed any component in the recipe, primer, case or bullet, drop the amount of powder by 1/2 grain then work back up. I do not try to max out a load either. Never found the need.