Need a bunch of help ***New Pictures Posted***

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Doing a little detective work for a friend of mine. I am familiar with the hand ejectors but these tip ups aren't in my wheelhouse.

First question: what model am I looking at? It appears to be chambered for a .32 or .38 variant of some kind. The last patent date on the cylinder is 1860.

Does it have any value?

Thanks.
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What is the barrel length? It appears to be a 6" barreled Model 2 Army. The caliber would be .32 rim fire and value depends mostly on condition and function.

Condition appears to be pretty good so it probably depends on function. The barrel hinge was probably the weakest link with the tip up guns and if that is good with little to no side play, then that would be a big plus. Next would be whether the hammer and trigger function as designed. If the cylinder rotates when cocked and stays in position and the hammer falls when the trigger is pulled then function would appear to be good as well.

Gun prices vary around the country but typically I see these asking anywhere from $700 to about $1,500 in good condition and function.
 
These are important guns for S&W. First revolver capable of really hurting an assailant or enemy Civil War soldier. Tens of thousands were carried during the Civil War. Problem is that there is virtually no 32 long rimfire ammunition around to shoot in these old tip-ups. It is sad, since the condition of that Model 2 certainly looks like it would shoot well. I am pretty sure that the gun has been gone over with cold bluing. It has that mottled appearance and original bluing would have been quite glossy in appearance.
 
It's serial number 10.


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There appears to be 3 pins in the top-strap, so it cannot have a serial number 10. The serial number is only found on the butt-frame on the bottom and on the inside of the right stock. The company used what they called assembly numbers for this model and stamped them on the inside of the butt-frame under the left stock, on the cylinder and on the barrel assembly just ahead of the cylinder. Those were either letters or numbers. The 3 pin Model 2 started with serial number somewhere around 3,000.
 
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There appears to be 3 pins in the top-strap, so it cannot have a serial number 10. The serial number is only found on the butt-frame on the bottom and on the inside of the right stock. The company used what they called assembly numbers for this model and stamped them on the inside of the butt-frame under the left stock, on the cylinder and on the barrel assembly just ahead of the cylinder. Those were either letters or numbers. The 3 pin Model 2 started with serial number somewhere around 3,000.



The 10 is found on the cylinder face and on the bottom of the butt so it must be an assembly number.

I appreciate all the information and I am enjoying learning about a new realm of the S&W world.


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My only guess is that the original number was removed on the butt and when some later owner found the "10" on the cylinder, they added the same number on the butt thinking it was the serial number?? Is there a number stamped inside the right stock?
 
This gun has a dubious history and been the subject of scrutiny for some years. It's NOT serial number 10. It's a 3 pin gun - which type depends on how much info the "owner" will release to us. Questions on it have popped up off and on for sometime and it's "owner' is always reluctant to provide details or allow examination by experts. I believe Gary's comment above may be right on the money, but whether the "10" was added to fool collectors, or for some other reason, I don't know. The gun is tainted as far as knowledgable Model 2 collectors are concerned, until full examination has been made public. If the poster is really looking for info for his "friend" he should come forward will full close up photos of ALL parts of the gun, and we will be able to decipher the mystery. Ed.
 
Need a bunch of help

Well Ed, I am in fact doing some research for a "friend" of mine who owns the piece and asked me about it. So I thought I would come and ask the experts. These are my intentions and I don't appreciate you implying something else.

I saw it this afternoon when I went over to take a look at something else. Here are the rest of the pictures that I took. Please let me know what else you would like to see and I can get more pictures from my "friend" the current "owner"

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Just for comparison, here is a picture of my 2 pin model #2 old army (with known original history) serial #2015, and a picture of my 3 pin refinished #2 old army serial #7361. The "1" stamp looks close to the 10 serial numbered revolvers, and the serial number placement on the butt is similar as well,but the "1" stamp is just different enough to raise some speculation? I'm sure all the stamps must have been a little different as they were all made by hand,and probably touched up as needed when dull. Interesting...could someone have added the 3rd pin at some time?What would be the reason someone would do that? I'm asking,not insinuating anything..:)
 

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Interesting that the pictures we need are not shown. I agree with Ed 100%. I don't like the serial number, seems someone who knew nothing about Number 2's tried to make an instant collectible. Maybe your "friend" can come on an post more information.
 
younggun22 - you may not be aware, but many fake, fraudulent, and outright photographically altered guns show up on this Forum, so please don't take comments personally. The gun is, as Ed states, totally wrong and cannot be legtimized with the features shown. Serial number 10 would have been manufactured in 1861, over a year before the 3 pin design was introduced. The third pin limits the upward movement of the top frame cylinder stop. If you pull up on the rear of the stop where the rear sight slot is, it will only travel up a short distance. Before that, clothing, holsters, other objects could literally break the cylinder stop if pulled up with force. At the very least, it could bend the metal or break the return spring, stopping the gun from functioning.

What would be very helpful are pictures of the inside of the right stock, the rear of the barrel frame around the cylinder pivot hole, the front of the cylinder and the butt-frame under the left stock. This might help to identify how the number on the butt came to be.
 
younggun22 - you may not be aware, but many fake, fraudulent, and outright photographically altered guns show up on this Forum, so please don't take comments personally. The gun is, as Ed states, totally wrong and cannot be legtimized with the features shown. Serial number 10 would have been manufactured in 1861, over a year before the 3 pin.

What would be very helpful are pictures of the inside of the right stock, the rear of the barrel frame around the cylinder pivot hole, the front of the cylinder and the butt-frame under the left stock. This might help to identify how the number on the butt came to be.


I really appreciate the history as I am not at all familiar with these and can understand the doubt.

As I said earlier I am happy to provide any pictures needed to figure out what this is.
 
Is it at all possible the 3rd pin was added as an "upgrade",especially if the latch was a known issue to snag? I know of many a '63 Vette split windows that were converted to single back glass, in the day. Although functionally better, it damaged the value as an original car. But the owners didn't care at the time.
 
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