Need Advice - High Standard Mod 107 Ejector

[OldChief]

The first time I tore my High Standard Supermatic Citation Mod 107 down for cleaning. When I removed the slide from the frame the ejector fell out onto the bench. The ejector doesn't show any sign of being broken off and there isn't any pin or screw to hold it in. I looked at a large picture of this part on the Numrich site and my ejector looks exactly the same. When I reassembled the pistol, I noticed that a grove in the slide held the extractor in place. Any comments?

 

[Dan Carey]

Sounds like a broken ejector spring.
Go to RimfireCentral.com and ask in the High Standard Forum. Pictures will definitely help you out as well. You will definitely get all the help you need there!
I have three High Standard semi-autos and their help has been invaluable!

 

[misswired]

Mine fell out too. It started sporadically ejecting when I noticed the extractor was missing. Brushing brass of the table a couple days later I find the extractor. Pulled out the schematic and see that I’m missing a rod and spring. Found one on the floor of the porch and the other in the tomato bed. It all just kinda snapped back together. Haven’t shot it much since, kinda doubt I’ll get that lucky again. Maybe this diagram will help.

 

[2152hq]

You are missing the 'ejector spring' (coil) and the 'ejector plunger'.

On Numrichs diagram for the `107' they are parts #2 and #9.

They go together like a lot of other 22rimfire extractors.

Push the spring and plunger into the hole in the slide.
Rotate the plunger so the 'flat' milled on the side of the plunger is facing in towards the slide and the extractor.
Then push the plunger in against the spring tension with a small screw driver tip till you can drop the new extractor into place in front of it.
Release the plunger and it will place spring tension on the extractor.

That 'flat' on the plunger engages the rear edge of the extractor and keeps the plunger from turning and disengaging (in theory).

Not uncommon for these HS pistols to loose their extractor.

You may need to adjust & fit a new extractor a bit after the drop in to make for 100% reliability.
It's a matter of the hook of the extractor just barely clenching the spent brass case as it rides back on the face of the slide to be hit by the ejector.
It should be held firm enough not to fall off of the slide with a spent case under the extractor and just the slide in your hand given a little shake side to side.
Too much 'grab' by the extractor is no good either. The hook is too long then.
The tip of the claw should just barely engage the brass where the rim and case meet.
Even then some want it to only be along the top edge of the claw width.
That makes for a nice ejection path arc and clears the rails.
Too much engagement delays ejection and the path can be down low and get tangled up.

Some of these Target guns get fine tuned so much that they end up working with only one ammo. That's OK if you are in to the game that far. But most people just want them to work.

Luckily most extractors are a 'drop in and go shoot' type of thing. At most, take some sharp edges off the new part(s).

FWIW, most 22 semi autos will eject pretty well w/o an extractor in place.
The fired case is extracting itself during the blowback operation of the firearm. The ejector does it's thing and things can seem pretty normal.
The Beretta 950 has no extractor.

It's getting a loaded round out of the chamber that it's needed for and in some designs it acts as a cartridge guide for feeding. Some have another on the opposite side also that barely acts as an extractor and is there as a cartridge guide.
The Marlin 60 is like that.

 

[walter o]

Are we talking about an extractor or an ejector ? OP said ejector.Below are instructions from rimfire central.look at last sentence
you will have a difficult time finding a factory replacement ejector. Those have been out of production for decades. The Texas High Standard pistols do not use a separate part for the ejector. The ejector is milled into the top of the frame during the machining process. It is integral to the frame.

You can make a suitable ejector to fit into the angled hole in the frame on your gun. Use the shank of a 1/8" drill bit, and cut the piece to about 0.6" length. This will fit into the hole and protrude high enough above the frame so that the upper end can be machined to form the ejector. The top of the ejector should be is parallel to the frame, and the sides of the part narrowed to fit the slide. The part should fit about 0.125" above the frame, and the each of the sides machined to leave the ejector portion about 0.060" wide. You will probably have to convert these dimensions to metric. I used a Dremel tool with appropriate grinding and cutting bits to form the top of the ejector on one I replaced in a pistol.

Use red Loctite or similar material to affix the part into the hole. Please note that the original ejector shaft was splined and pressed into the hole.

 

[OldChief]

Are we talking about an extractor or an ejector ? OP said ejector.Below are instructions from rimfire central.look at last sentence
you will have a difficult time finding a factory replacement ejector. Those have been out of production for decades. The Texas High Standard pistols do not use a separate part for the ejector. The ejector is milled into the top of the frame during the machining process. It is integral to the frame.

You can make a suitable ejector to fit into the angled hole in the frame on your gun. Use the shank of a 1/8" drill bit, and cut the piece to about 0.6" length. This will fit into the hole and protrude high enough above the frame so that the upper end can be machined to form the ejector. The top of the ejector should be is parallel to the frame, and the sides of the part narrowed to fit the slide. The part should fit about 0.125" above the frame, and the each of the sides machined to leave the ejector portion about 0.060" wide. You will probably have to convert these dimensions to metric. I used a Dremel tool with appropriate grinding and cutting bits to form the top of the ejector on one I replaced in a pistol.

Use red Loctite or similar material to affix the part into the hole. Please note that the original ejector shaft was splined and pressed into the hole.

Yes, it is the ejector that I'm referring to. I noticed that one of the ejectors offered by Numrich was splined. I'll use some red Loctiter for now and I'm going to order a new part from Numrich. Thanks, I do believe you hit the nail on the head.

 

[jrm53]

After disassemling a Ruger bolt out of a standard pistol and finally geting it back together I now clean them in kerosine and use an air hose to blow them off. Jeff