JJEH
Member
I use Royal Purple Synthetic Gun Oil and I love it.
Need help!best lubricant for aluminum frames?
- Thread starter mrmike7189
- Start date
scoobysnacker
Member
While there are a zillion different "gun" lubricant products, I've always thought that the best oils/greases would be something with a Mobil One or Royal Purple label (just gotta get the right viscosity). Companies like this are way ahead of the curve with oil technology, and the funny thing is, they will still be a lot cheaper than the "gun" products.
scoobysnacker
Member
Sorry, thread drift coming in this post. 
I think as long as you perform some maintenance on your gun (clean it, lube it where you're supposed to), and the gun was good in the first place, you're ok.
I have recently bought 2 guns from CDI Sales, both cheapos. CZ 75 made in '89, and a CZ99 (Zastava, not the Czech CZ) from around the same time period. Both seem to be Israeli surplus trade-ins. The CZ 75 is all steel with a paint job (I understand that they parkerized before painting); the CZ99 has a blued steel slide, chromed barrel, and alloy frame with some sort of paint on it.
The guns were both "ugly gun specials", all numbered parts were matches, they smelled like dirty engine oil, and they looked as though they were stored in a sand pit that was used to burn trash.
They also shot to point of aim, as well as I could with any other pistol I own.
To clean and lube them, I used 3 chemicals, based on what I learned online (and YMMV).
1) removed the grips (only things not metal), and sprayed them out with a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Amazing the amount of crud that ran free, and the guns looked clean afterwards. I'd seen this recommended in many forums, and the only warning has been "don't get it on plastic". Didn't hurt the finishes at all.
2) Cleaned as normal afterwards with Ballistol, and rubbed everything down with that. Seemed to slick and shine everything up. I use that because they claim it's non-toxic, and Hickok45 likes it.
3) Rubbed a film of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on the rails, and other visual sliding surfaces. Really, really smoothed things up. Slides feel lighter, they glide. I've read at bobistheoilguy that this grease and Lubriplate are great for rails, and I couldn't find the lubriplate at my auto parts store. It's worked great on my pistols, and if/when I ever run out of the 14 oz tube, I might try the other brand.
4) another quick wipedown of the outside with ballistol on a rag, and then I tucked the pistols into ... cheap cigar boxes.
Re the cigar boxes- I liked the size, and actually went as far as emailing some PhD of Wood (honestly, something along those lines!) at University of Oregon.
He replied back that the cigar boxes are made of a certain type of cedar, and the wood actually dries the atmosphere out. He said cigar owners have to keep them humidified, or they become bone-dry... and if I wanted to use them for dry storage, then leave them inside (in the AC), open for a few days, and they will balance out to the atmosphere in the house. Which I have done.. and I find the guns I've placed inside remain as nice as I put them in.
I think as long as you perform some maintenance on your gun (clean it, lube it where you're supposed to), and the gun was good in the first place, you're ok.
I have recently bought 2 guns from CDI Sales, both cheapos. CZ 75 made in '89, and a CZ99 (Zastava, not the Czech CZ) from around the same time period. Both seem to be Israeli surplus trade-ins. The CZ 75 is all steel with a paint job (I understand that they parkerized before painting); the CZ99 has a blued steel slide, chromed barrel, and alloy frame with some sort of paint on it.
The guns were both "ugly gun specials", all numbered parts were matches, they smelled like dirty engine oil, and they looked as though they were stored in a sand pit that was used to burn trash.
They also shot to point of aim, as well as I could with any other pistol I own.
To clean and lube them, I used 3 chemicals, based on what I learned online (and YMMV).
1) removed the grips (only things not metal), and sprayed them out with a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Amazing the amount of crud that ran free, and the guns looked clean afterwards. I'd seen this recommended in many forums, and the only warning has been "don't get it on plastic". Didn't hurt the finishes at all.
2) Cleaned as normal afterwards with Ballistol, and rubbed everything down with that. Seemed to slick and shine everything up. I use that because they claim it's non-toxic, and Hickok45 likes it.
3) Rubbed a film of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on the rails, and other visual sliding surfaces. Really, really smoothed things up. Slides feel lighter, they glide. I've read at bobistheoilguy that this grease and Lubriplate are great for rails, and I couldn't find the lubriplate at my auto parts store. It's worked great on my pistols, and if/when I ever run out of the 14 oz tube, I might try the other brand.
4) another quick wipedown of the outside with ballistol on a rag, and then I tucked the pistols into ... cheap cigar boxes.
Re the cigar boxes- I liked the size, and actually went as far as emailing some PhD of Wood (honestly, something along those lines!) at University of Oregon.
He replied back that the cigar boxes are made of a certain type of cedar, and the wood actually dries the atmosphere out. He said cigar owners have to keep them humidified, or they become bone-dry... and if I wanted to use them for dry storage, then leave them inside (in the AC), open for a few days, and they will balance out to the atmosphere in the house. Which I have done.. and I find the guns I've placed inside remain as nice as I put them in.
Earlier in this thread I made a recommendation for a product know as "Frog Lube". I had some given to me a year back and it seemed to work well. I did some more research into this product, and I have thrown the rest of mine in the garbage.
I have gone back to using Military red grease and LSA oil. This stuff as been used in every climate in blistering heat and freezing cold and it works
I have gone back to using Military red grease and LSA oil. This stuff as been used in every climate in blistering heat and freezing cold and it works
All of my manuals...
I have a 3rd Gen, a Shield and Kel tec. All of the instruction manuals say where to put oil. I do that and everything works fine. If oil is running out of your gun there's too much and you need to cut back, or just wipe it off.
I've heard, "If it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it." But I don't know where that adage came from or if there is any truth to it, at least regarding guns. I'm not saying grease is bad, just that the gun manufacturers specify oil and it should be adequate. And I know many firearms that require grease, just not mine.
I have a 3rd Gen, a Shield and Kel tec. All of the instruction manuals say where to put oil. I do that and everything works fine. If oil is running out of your gun there's too much and you need to cut back, or just wipe it off.
I've heard, "If it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it." But I don't know where that adage came from or if there is any truth to it, at least regarding guns. I'm not saying grease is bad, just that the gun manufacturers specify oil and it should be adequate. And I know many firearms that require grease, just not mine.
Here's my $.02, which is about what it's worth.
Low friction parts like pivot points, springs and linkage get light oil. High friction points like frame rails, barrel bushings and locking lugs get light grease. Use of heavy grease may work in warm/hot climates but is an invitation to failure in cold climates, especially sub zero. That's why "light is right".
Brands don't matter much as long as they meet the above criteria.
Carry on.
Low friction parts like pivot points, springs and linkage get light oil. High friction points like frame rails, barrel bushings and locking lugs get light grease. Use of heavy grease may work in warm/hot climates but is an invitation to failure in cold climates, especially sub zero. That's why "light is right".
Brands don't matter much as long as they meet the above criteria.
Carry on.
gwpercle
Member
I bought a 4 oz. bottle of Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil , just to try . It cost $10.00 for a small bottle with a twist top .
I swear it looks , feels and smells just like Lucas Multi-Vehicle ATF, which costs $7.99 a quart!
I'm starting to wonder about all these high priced lubes, could some manufacturer's be making a quick buck on gun owner's with these "special " gun lubes ? I'm not so sure it's that much better than ATF...which is a great lube in itself.
Gary
I swear it looks , feels and smells just like Lucas Multi-Vehicle ATF, which costs $7.99 a quart!
I'm starting to wonder about all these high priced lubes, could some manufacturer's be making a quick buck on gun owner's with these "special " gun lubes ? I'm not so sure it's that much better than ATF...which is a great lube in itself.
Gary
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