Need help choosing good 1st Revolver for a beginner..

[Alibiiv]

A Model 10, one of the most popular revolvers of the 20th century. A .38 special. An excellent, dependable, revolver with a fine reputation. You should be able to find one used for under $500.

Do you think a model 10 could be had for under $500? I live in the northeast, I’m not too certain I could find one for less then $500. I’m not being argued here, I just think that under $500 is cheap.

 

[oldcop71]

If you are seeking a good, budget entry level revolver, I'd consider a Rock Island 200 .38spl. Very reasonable price, fixed sight 6 shooter, 4" bbl. Mine is very accurate.

 

[Onomea]

There's one on GB now for a buy it now of less than $500, and many, many listings for M10 auctions that I would wager will go for under $500. Or, check out some pawnshops. Very common gun, and not very popular nowadays.

I think less than $500 is realistic.

 

[Alibiiv]

Hopefully, some of the veteran shooters can help. As the title suggests revolver beginner. I have tried a few revolvers 38 and 45 and do have a ruger wrangler in 22. Most of the shooters I know are into the polymers no idea on revolvers. So here I am. Looking for a reasonably priced good option. Most SW I researched are +500 or more. Just not sure. I was thinking about a 9mm but not sure of the moon clips. Open too all suggestions, plan on renting at the local indoor range. Just need ideas.. primary use home defense possibly carry. I just want a good revolver. Thanks in advance guys for your recommendations.... Joe

Although it could be “one and done”, for me home defense and concealed carry are two different guns. I suggest staying away from moon clips if you’re looking for home defense. Trying to load a moon clip into a cylinder can be very challenging when you’re trying to cut reloads time down. A speed loader is more efficient. If you are serious about CCW, I would definitely recommend 4 inch or three inch barrel. Home defense 6 inch barrel, concealed carry 4< inch barrel. Kind of tough trying to conceal a 6 inch barrel gun, unless you use a shoulder holster. I have a S&W model 18 for plinking and a model 19 for home/hunting, and a model 340PD for an EDC. But….these are way over your price range. The Ruger SP101 (?) makes a pretty decent revolver and I’m pretty certain that will be within your budget. I hope that I did not commit sacrilege on this forum by mentioning Ruger. I do not reply to many threads. This is all I’ve got for you. Good luck with your choice.

 

[Alibiiv]

+1 for a Model 10. A vintage 4” HB example would make a solid utilitarian revolver at a very reasonable price.

Model 12??

 

[JMD999]

Used 4" Ruger GP 100, 38/357. (Should last a few lifetimes)

 

[lkabug]

Lots of good advice here.
I too, would suggest a model 10. Perhaps a 10-6, 4 inch, with a heavy barrel.
However a .22 model model 17 also makes sense for a new revolver shooter.
Mastering any revolver doesn't happen on your first range trip. Be patient, learn the basics. Understand the why and why not. Practice, practice, and practice some more.
Many videos out there, watching them can help.
There are many excellent revolver masters here. Ask, they will help.

 

[jammer216]

And the recommendations keep coming. Big "Thank you" to all.

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

You will never stop with just that first revolver. the most popular revolver on this forum is the model 686. Then the argument starts between four and six inch barrel. 4" being easier to carry and still very good for the range, the six inch being potentially more accurate for the range and home defense. . If you are looking for bargains, the Model 10 (38 special) and Model 28 ("Highway Patrolman"3357 Mag) are great revolvers that can often be found for a fraction (half to 2//3) of the cost of a new 686. . For ED C I prefer the lightweight 5 shot J frames like the 340 PD (367 mag). I like 357 mag revolvers because as you may know they also shoot 38 Special (as do some rifles). The R8 is 'cool" because it holds eight shots of 357. Let me know if you can stop at one. take your time and get what you want - every time. Good luck!

 

[Skyviking]

The S&W Model 66 or 19 K-frame .357 Magnum. The 586/686 are larger, heavier revolvers. Shoot .38 Spl. 148-gr. wadcutter or 158-gr. LRN or LSWC for training/practice/plinking, .38 Spl.+P or .357 Magnum for real-world social and outdoors hiking/camping work. Do not worry about reflectivity of the stainless (Model 66 and 686) variants. They are easier to care for and more rust-resistant than the blued or nickel-plated versions (Models 19 & 586). The .22LR Models 17, 18 are great low-cost "understudies" for marksmanship training/practice, but do not "dry fire" any rimfire firearm without using snap caps.

 

[Lance Boyle]

With a little looking, there are some good deals to be found on re-imported or trade in law enforcement model 64's. Basically a .38 Special, stainless, 4 inch heavy barrel, fix sighted gun that typically just needs a new set of grips and a good deep cleaning. Basically indestructible solid value.

I have one and it’s a very sound gun. For me the only down side is the frame cut rear sight in stainless is a little shiny. I shoot it well enough but a dark sight is easier. I tend to be fussy.

I kind of bought it as a knock around field gun I can wear when working on the property.

Mine is 4” and really wish it was a 3”.

I’ll probably not keep it and will reinvest in something else. A six shot snub gun or a 4” model 15 is my thoughts.

But for a no muss no fuss revolver the model 64 is very hard to beat.

 

[Lance Boyle]

Lots of good advice here.
I too, would suggest a model 10. Perhaps a 10-6, 4 inch, with a heavy barrel.
However a .22 model model 17 also makes sense for a new revolver shooter.
Mastering any revolver doesn't happen on your first range trip. Be patient, learn the basics. Understand the why and why not. Practice, practice, and practice some more.
Many videos out there, watching them can help.
There are many excellent revolver masters here. Ask, they will help.

yes sir. I have a good friend shooting buddy who has shot longer than I have but not with revolvers. He wanted to scratch that itch and picked up a Colt Official Police. He was all over the target and thought he had a gun with a bad barrel. I loaded 6 rounds and put them in a 2” circle at 15 yards with half the rounds touching. I shot his old gun better than my 80’s vintage model 19 that day.

He was relieved and also disgusted that he couldn’t just shoot a revolver as good as he can shoot with his Sig 320. The next time out we shot some of my cast loads and he did better.

It takes practice.

 

[Lance Boyle]

Heck it took me a few different methods just to find my best bench rest technique for testing my revolver reloads. I found a bunch of methods that didn’t quite work for me.

I currently will use a rifle tripod rest with an old bath towel thrown over the top to avoid dinging the gun. I rest the gun frame at the yoke on the rest. Resting the barrel on the rest wasn’t as accurate nor was resting the butt on a sand bag all that great for testing. Your results may vary.

 

[SWFan27]

Either a 4 inch barrel 66-8 or a 686+. The 686+ holds 7 rounds of 38spl and 357 mag.

 

[kelljor]

Not sure I would buy a new S&W, at least other than a J-frame. Even though they're about as graceful as a tractor, I'd consider a Ruger SP101 or GP100. Ruger seems to have fallen less far than S&W in quality and execution - probably because they never were quite as nice to start with. Buying a used S&W? - 686 4" as the 6" really is a bit too long to carry regularly and a better field gun for a hunter. The 66 would get honorable mention as it really isn't suited for more than occasional .357 use and better as a .38 to keep the forcing cone from cracking; they do make a new version that has a reinforced forcing cone, but current QC seems uneven.

If you can find a late run 66 combat magnum in 2 7/8 (3) inch or 4 inch you might consider that. By late run I mean the nomenclature would be 66-8. I picked one up that was made in 2018; doesn't look like it has been used much. With the -8 (don't know if that was the first model they did this) the forcing cone is thick all around the cone, with a lot of the earlier 66s the forcing cone is thinner at the bottom than at the top. The only issue I had was the rear sights aren't very tall but I have learned to work with that. I paid 500 for it last year; like I said, it looks used very little. Real light scratches on the cylinder from the pawl (?), no crud on the top of the frame, no marks on the face of the cylinder. Either that or the previous owner was really anal about cleaning.

 

[kelljor]

For a first revolver, which might occasionally be carried, I'd pick a 357 Magnum with a barrel length of 3 to 4 inches. For compactness and easier carry, a current production Colt King Cobra or Viper, or a S&W Model 19 or 66. If you don't mind a larger diameter cylinder and a little bigger frame, Colt Python, Ruger GP-100, or S&W 686. With a 357 Magnum revolver, you get more ammo options. Anything from very low recoil 148 grain target wadcutter 38 Special all the way to full power 357 Magnum.

I also picked up a NIB Model 60 3" with adjustable sights that is a sweetie as long as you keep magmuns out of it. Hot 38s are fine (I use mostly wadcutters) but the Magnums hurt.

 

[kelljor]

It's a lot less demanding finish for your care and attention and while more shiny, it's not like blued guns can't reflect light. Some 600 - 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper can take out scratches (if you're aware of the grain pattern of the original finish).

Stainless requires less maintenance as far as finish, they make a special cloth to clean stainless with, and with stainless you can really see the crud so it's easier to clean. As far as sunlight, it is brighter but it doesn't reflect like, say, a mirror. The newer dark finishes (I can't call them blued) seem to show minor scratches a lot more.