Need help refinishing an M1 stock
- Thread starter Mr Sola
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Basically, you just rub boiled linseed oil into the stock by hand. When manufactured, they just dipped the stocks into a vat of linseed oil. Just smelling the stuff reminds me of my high school ROTC armory, where we had about 200 M1s stored. Each cadet was responsible for cleaning his M1 weekly, and the protocol was to apply linseed oil to the stock as well. And those rifles were inspected at least once weekly by cadet officers during formal in-uniform inspections. After a while, the stock takes on a dull sheen that tells you you've done it right.
Marshall 357
Member
midwayusa.com has a complete wood set for M-1's for a little over $100
Didn't they switch to tung oil (vat dip) for the original coating in '41 sometime?,,or did I read that wrong somewhere..
Either will give a good authentic looking finish. The tung oil is much more moisture resistant than linseed (as is most anything else you could use).
Either will give a good authentic looking finish. The tung oil is much more moisture resistant than linseed (as is most anything else you could use).
mkk41
US Veteran
Yep , Tung (China) oil or raw linseed oil only.
Faulkner
Member
Tung oil is marginally more moisture resistant than lindseed oil. Neither are all that great at it.
wsl1971
Member
I did this to a carbine stock and it worked well. Take a wet rag place it on the stock and use a hot iron to heat the rag. After you have gone over the problem areas let the stock dry. Go over the stock with 0000 steel wool to bring down the grain. This may need to be repeated several times depending on how deep the scratches and gouges are. When you are happy with the look of your stock rub it down with boiled linseed oil.
Bill
Bill
m1gunner
US Veteran
Tung oil has an advantage over linseed oil in that it won't promote growth of mold or mildew.
Pure tung oil is available from realmilkpaint.com. It is worth getting the right stuff. A quart will last you many rifles and years.
Don't forget, 1 coat a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a month for a year.
Pure tung oil is available from realmilkpaint.com. It is worth getting the right stuff. A quart will last you many rifles and years.
Don't forget, 1 coat a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a month for a year.
Sir, what exactly is the matter with it? Different problems call for different solutions. It helps if we know what needs fixing.
Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.
Ron H.
cxm
Member
Boiled Linseed Oil
The trick to using Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is patience... simply rub the oil generously into the wood and allow it to soak in over night.
Then go over the wood with 0000 steel wool. Once you have done that, wipe the steel dust off with a tacky cloth.
Next repeat the process all over again. I like to rub the final few coats of oil into the wood by hand (i.e. my fingers) ... this seems to give a better final finish.
After 4-6 coats the wood will take on a deep dull finish luster. An additional plus to an oil finish is the fact minor nicks and dings can easily be repaired using the same process used to apply the initial finish.
FWIW
Chuck
The trick to using Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is patience... simply rub the oil generously into the wood and allow it to soak in over night.
Then go over the wood with 0000 steel wool. Once you have done that, wipe the steel dust off with a tacky cloth.
Next repeat the process all over again. I like to rub the final few coats of oil into the wood by hand (i.e. my fingers) ... this seems to give a better final finish.
After 4-6 coats the wood will take on a deep dull finish luster. An additional plus to an oil finish is the fact minor nicks and dings can easily be repaired using the same process used to apply the initial finish.
FWIW
Chuck
reddogge
Member
You may want to post pictures of your stock so some of us can evaluate it. I would avoid the dishwasher treatment as water and wood don't get along and for every great stock turned out you don't hear of the ones split or warped forever.
It's best to do the LEAST intrusive things to your stock first. Avoid sanding out dents at all costs. Start with a good cleaning with a damp soapy sponge on a scrubby pad and then rub your tung oil in with many coats over time. If it's really dirty and oily use acetone on a scrubby pad.
Remember, less is more with old M1 stocks. The look better a little old than brand new.
It's best to do the LEAST intrusive things to your stock first. Avoid sanding out dents at all costs. Start with a good cleaning with a damp soapy sponge on a scrubby pad and then rub your tung oil in with many coats over time. If it's really dirty and oily use acetone on a scrubby pad.
Remember, less is more with old M1 stocks. The look better a little old than brand new.
Dave from Pa
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Try this to remove the dirt and grime. http://www.clean-rite.com/index.html
Purple Power can be found at most Advance Auto parts stores and will save you hours .
Purple Power can be found at most Advance Auto parts stores and will save you hours .
+1 on the "steaming" out the dents & scratch's. I did this on mine bought from the DCM many years ago (for $168). You may have to repeat a couple times, but you can get most dents out. Light sanding and I used Tru-Oil. Hand rubbed in 7 coats, letting dry 24 hours in between each coat, then lightly wiping down with 0000 Steel Wool before next coat. After last coat, wait 7 days then rub down with a slurry of Rotten Stone in mineral oil. You will be amazed at how great it looks.
BruceM
Member
Information on cleaning your stock can be obtained on a number of websites. +1 on steaming up dents. As long as the stock is not chipped or scratched (material removed) the dents will come up. Take it easy on the sanding unless you want to re-stain the stock. I would NOT use oven cleaner on the stock because most contain lye and, if your stock has visible cartouches, I would think twice about using the dish washer method of cleaning.
When I did mine, I used mineral spirits, Simple Green and Greased Lightning to clean all wood and metal parts. I steamed up any bad dents and used Tung Oil ( not Tung Oil finish which contains varnish). I mixed Tung Oil with mineral spirits 50/50 and applied it to the stock components with cotton patches after all metal parts were stripped from the stock. Apply in light coats, allowing to dry completely between coats. You can break any unwanted gloss in the finish with 0000 steel or bronze wool. The more coats you apply, the more gloss you will get. It is a hand rubbed finish.
IMO, Tung Oil is superior to either boiled or raw linseed oil on a number of levels. It drys better, gives better moisture protection and does not have a tendency to "bleed" in hot weather.
Bruce
When I did mine, I used mineral spirits, Simple Green and Greased Lightning to clean all wood and metal parts. I steamed up any bad dents and used Tung Oil ( not Tung Oil finish which contains varnish). I mixed Tung Oil with mineral spirits 50/50 and applied it to the stock components with cotton patches after all metal parts were stripped from the stock. Apply in light coats, allowing to dry completely between coats. You can break any unwanted gloss in the finish with 0000 steel or bronze wool. The more coats you apply, the more gloss you will get. It is a hand rubbed finish.
IMO, Tung Oil is superior to either boiled or raw linseed oil on a number of levels. It drys better, gives better moisture protection and does not have a tendency to "bleed" in hot weather.
Bruce
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The oft mentioned trick to steaming out dents is to place a wet cloth over the dent and a clothes iron on top to produce the steam needed to swell the wood fibers back up. It does work. It's a slow process and not every dent will come back 100%.
I've found over the years that by taking a small cloth or better yet a cotton ball wet with water and placing directly on the worst dent(s) and letting it sit for an hour or even more allows the water to soak in a bit and really soften up the wood fibers.
Then remove the small soaking patch and place a wet cloth over the spot and heat it with an electric soldering gun.
Much hotter and quicker heat than the clothes iron and better controlled.
The water that soaked into the wood/dent will turn to steam continually as the heat gets to it and raise the fibers better than just a cloth alone over the top of it. The wet cloth will keep the soldering gun from burning anything.
It helps to get any excess oil out of the dent too with a small artists brush and acetone so the water can penetrate.
When done w/the whole process, the area will be absolutely dry.
Be carefull of the entire stock in the dishwasher routine as stamped cartouches, proofs, inspector marks, etc can at times reverse when the wood drys and become a RAISED image due to the temps and times involved. Doesn't always occur, but can be an unpleasent surprise on a favorite collectable restoration.
I've found over the years that by taking a small cloth or better yet a cotton ball wet with water and placing directly on the worst dent(s) and letting it sit for an hour or even more allows the water to soak in a bit and really soften up the wood fibers.
Then remove the small soaking patch and place a wet cloth over the spot and heat it with an electric soldering gun.
Much hotter and quicker heat than the clothes iron and better controlled.
The water that soaked into the wood/dent will turn to steam continually as the heat gets to it and raise the fibers better than just a cloth alone over the top of it. The wet cloth will keep the soldering gun from burning anything.
It helps to get any excess oil out of the dent too with a small artists brush and acetone so the water can penetrate.
When done w/the whole process, the area will be absolutely dry.
Be carefull of the entire stock in the dishwasher routine as stamped cartouches, proofs, inspector marks, etc can at times reverse when the wood drys and become a RAISED image due to the temps and times involved. Doesn't always occur, but can be an unpleasent surprise on a favorite collectable restoration.
Fuego
Member
I know it has been done many times, and there have been mixed results, but seriously, would anyone in their right mind put a wood carving (carved to .01") in a dishwasher on the pot scrubber cycle?
These people keep Boyd's in business.
There are many ways to clean wood, but talk to any furniture maker or woodworker before you put your stock into the dishwasher.
These people keep Boyd's in business.
There are many ways to clean wood, but talk to any furniture maker or woodworker before you put your stock into the dishwasher.
HERMAN.40
Member
Man O Man! This forum is great. I went to a meeting at the American Legion last night. A while ago they had a minor flood in the basement. The metal cabinet they keep the guns in had a piece of carpet on the bottom which got soaked. They had just noticed the white mildew on the 10 M-1s and the slings.The butt plates look nasty,as does the stocks on the bottom. They asked me if I knew what to use on the guns to make them presentable again. I told them I would look online. THANKS guys. Now I know where to look. Fantastic timing. I'm constantly amazed and impressed by the information here. Now time to get busy and give these guns a little TLC and a lot of respect. Thanks again.
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