Need help with a table saw...

[rwsmith]

If you're ripping longer wood, you need either a helper or an outfeed table that supports the wood. The weight of the outfeed will affect what you're attempting at the table, and is indeed dangerous. When i set a width of cut, am not using a steel square and a table slot. Only a tape rule with finer measurements with end butted up against bottom of fence and inside measurement graduations against edge of chisel tooth (front and back of blade). This checks what actually matters most.

If you can't get the fence aligned doing this, there is likely underside adjustments to square up the table top. Don't presume anything, and if you don't have one that model's owner's manual is likely available on the net.

I'll recheck the other side of the blade/table/fence and the teeth but I don't think I could get it any more square. I was a mechanical designer in the old days, so I'm pretty good at making measurements. Maybe I'll get my calipers on it.

I did find the manual and read it before I messed with the saw, but I wasn't sure what was causing the binding problem.

 

[rwsmith]

LOL...

Gotta be, fence not square, dull blade or crooked board. I’ve run into this ripping 1” pine boards. Home Depot sells some 1” pine that looks like a hockey stick

I think I'll skim a strip off the edge that's going to be on the fence. before I make the main cut.

 

[rwsmith]

OK........

Looks like a regular steel toothed blade you have there. All gummed up and probably relieved of it's temper. Rule of thumb with saw blades and teeth count/spacing is no more than (3) in the cut. Any more than that produces extra heat/friction. Break down and get a decent carbide rip blade.

Me, I'd down size that cut off fixture you have there. Needs only ride in one slot for 90 degree cuts. Again with the extra friction.

Money for only one decent saw blade? ... get a carbide "planer" style blade.

Ok on the blades. I have some others and if they aren't suitable I'll get a good one soon.

Because of some 'retainers' in the miter tracks, I needed 'T' shaped runners for the sled. I shopped for some but couldn't find any that fit that weren't pricey or part of a bigger package, I cut some small blocks for runners that I had to put in two places on each side of the sled and I have to 'jump' those retainers. It's a clumsy way to do it, but cheap. I used the sled to cut a 6' long 4" x 4" and it works. Maybe I'll make a 'one-sided' one as per your suggestion, for smaller stuff, but I'd like to find some decent 'T' track to do a better job.

 

[rustythread]

while you're at it, get a foot switch which is off unless your foot is pressing on it. When things get exciting, you d0n't need to be fumbling for the manual switch.

 

[zeke]

I'll recheck the other side of the blade/table/fence and the teeth but I don't think I could get it any more square. I was a mechanical designer in the old days, so I'm pretty good at making measurements. Maybe I'll get my calipers on it.

I did find the manual and read it before I messed with the saw, but I wasn't sure what was causing the binding problem.

what matters most is having the blade parallel to the fence after it's locked down. This is checked by measuring the blade directly compared to the fence with nothing in between. On cheaper fences they can actually move when being tightened. What you have shown does not do that.

If the need to adjust goes beyond that, there are possible trunnion adjustments to be made below the table, and they are directly related to the top slots and squares. Alot of you tube vids on this.

 

[rwsmith]

I was wondering.....

while you're at it, get a foot switch which is off unless your foot is pressing on it. When things get exciting, you d0n't need to be fumbling for the manual switch.

...what I could do about that. Great suggestion. THANKS!

 

[rwsmith]

I'll check that, too...

what matters most is having the blade parallel to the fence after it's locked down. This is checked by measuring the blade directly compared to the fence with nothing in between. On cheaper fences they can actually move when being tightened. What you have shown does not do that.

If the need to adjust goes beyond that, there are possible trunnion adjustments to be made below the table, and they are directly related to the top slots and squares. Alot of you tube vids on this.

With the fence up against the rivener/saw blade, it LOOKS perfect, but I'll measure it and see.

Oh, and THANKS everybody for the help. I lowered the blade when I cut to where only the teeth are above the piece I'm cutting. What I was doing was smaller stuff, but it seemed to work well.

 

[zeke]

With the fence up against the rivener/saw blade, it LOOKS perfect, but I'll measure it and see.

Oh, and THANKS everybody for the help. I lowered the blade when I cut to where only the teeth are above the piece I'm cutting. What I was doing was smaller stuff, but it seemed to work well.

when you put the fence up against the the saw blade it aligns with the blade. There is no blade to butt against when the fence is set to cut out to a certain width. Hence the suggestion to measure when the fence is actually in the position it is going to be used

Got my saw bout 50 yrs ago, an inexpensive craftsman. The fence needs measured every time it is adjusted for any situation that accuracy matters.

 

[rwsmith]

I found a...

...Rip/Crosscut combo carbide tipped blade that I used to rip a piece of hardwood. Worked better than the general purpose blade that I had on there.

 

[Jim Kuykendall]

One thing that has not been addressed is the table itself, Have you applied a coat of high quality paste wax to the top of the table? Also, if you have squared the blade and the fence apply paste wax to the fence itself wherever the wood presses againstthe fence as you are feeding it into the blade.

 

[rwsmith]

No.....

One thing that has not been addressed is the table itself, Have you applied a coat of high quality paste wax to the top of the table? Also, if you have squared the blade and the fence apply paste wax to the fence itself wherever the wood presses againstthe fence as you are feeding it into the blade.

....but I will next time I go out!

 

[taz666]

I used to just scrub the table and fence with a candle.

 

[chief38]

Table saws and Radial Arm Saws are two of the very few power tools I disliked enough to get rid of. I had an old Rockwell table saw that I sold 40 years ago after one of my employees cut off 3 fingers. Just before that I had a board kick back on a Radial Arm Saw and break two fingers on my hand. Got rid of both of them. Today, I still own a powerful Circular Saw, a Porter Cable Tiger Saw, a Scroll/Jig Saw, a DeWalt Miter Saw and plenty of other power tools. On the rare occasion I need something cut on a table saw, my neighbor across the street has one and is more than willing to cut it for me. As a matter if fact, the first time I needed that in 10 years was last week. He gladly cut my board on the lines I drew.

Not saying anyone should not use one - that is their own business. All I can say is to be more careful with them than any other tool they own. Only takes a split second to do lots of damage.