Need help with Apex FSS install

I wish I could convince myself to tackle something like this.

It's not difficult at all with the poly trigger FSS kit. It's cheaper, the trigger edges are rounded and not square like the Aluminum trigger and most importantly, the pin is easy to tap through because the polymer has some give to it which lets the pin slide through, but still keeps tension on it to prevent it from coming out on its own.
 
Does the blade trigger make THAT big of a difference?

Guess that would depend on your definition of big. To some, even a small change is a big deal, to others, not so much. I do know that the FSS can't be used with the stock trigger and I have the FSS and trigger in my competition gun, my others have had some polishing and spring changes but other than that are stock. But then again I shoot my competition gun >95% of the time. I've passed 60K on it and the next milestone will be 100K. :D
 

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Does the blade trigger make THAT big of a difference?


I think the FSS trigger makes a HUGE difference! It actually does make this striker fired pistol as close to a 1911 as is possible.
I used to think my Walther PPQ had a good trigger. The FSS blows it out of the water!

If you do it just get the poly kit. Or have a gunsmith install the aluminum one if you have to have that.
 
I think the FSS trigger makes a HUGE difference! It actually does make this striker fired pistol as close to a 1911 as is possible.
I used to think my Walther PPQ had a good trigger. The FSS blows it out of the water!

If you do it just get the poly kit. Or have a gunsmith install the aluminum one if you have to have that.


On the other interpretation of the question, "Does the blade trigger make that much of a difference?" The physical trigger shape (sharp edge Aluminum vs smooth edge of the poly trigger) is a matter of taste. I found the transition from the stock hinged trigger to the Apex poly trigger to be no problem. I also had no problem transitioning from the hinged stock trigger to the "Glock-like" scissor trigger safety.

To answer the interpretation of "Does the performance of the blade trigger make that much of a difference?" The answer is yes. The more you are used to shooting good trigger guns, the "more better" you will see the FSS kit as an improvement over the stock trigger.
 
New here so let's start with Hello from Tennessee!

Yesterday, I installed an aluminum enhanced action trigger on my 9mm pro and and used a vice instead of punch and it worked fine although it did take a pretty good umph to get it going.

Only then did I realize what I actually want is the FSS and trigger kit (trying to simulate the trigger on my M&P I use for IDPA ESP.
So my question, is there really any advantage to the aluminum over the polymer trigger? I'd prefer, of course, to take the less expensive route.

thanks
 
So my question, is there really any advantage to the aluminum over the polymer trigger? I'd prefer, of course, to take the less expensive route.
thanks

Hello and welcome.

The choice between the Aluminum and poly trigger is purely a matter of personal preference. Both should be sturdy enough to last several lifetimes. The Aluminum trigger has sharper edges and the poly trigger has rounded edges. The Aluminum trigger edges will not cut your fingers and the poly trigger edges will not cause your finger to slip off the trigger.

Of course you know the extra effort it takes to install (and maybe eventually remove) the roll pin from the Al trigger and the poly trigger is less expensive.
 
Thanks for the fast response.
I think I'll take the aluminum enhanced action trigger AND trigger bar from my 9mm pro and install it in a m&p 40. (assuming the bar is the same length, that way I won't have to uninstall the bar from the Al trigger. Can't use the vise for that). Then I can easily take the bar off that trigger and use it with the new poly FSS kit.
I really love M&P's but this is a lot off effort and $$ to get a good trigger.
 
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