Need ID help with a .22

That is some serious peening from the firing pin. It may interfere with inserting a cartridge all the way and would require reaming to remove the upset material. I see that the S/N on the cylinder face appears to have been filed off too; it is NOT worn down. If you have not picked it up yet you should remove the grips and make sure the S/N there is intact. If it is removed there I would try to get out of the purchase, These are great revolvers and it's worth fixing up.


The barrel and butt serial numbers match. I wondered the same about the filing on the cylinder but this cylinder might not be original?

I chambered 6 rounds and all fit flush and closes and locks up good. So far, other than visual, the gun appears sound. I will have to wait a few days to shoot it unfortunately, as I have been stalking the largest buck I’ve ever seen around my place.


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That is one very badly abused revolver, and a prime example why .22 rim-fire revolvers absolutely should not be dry-fired! A lot of the dry-fire has been double-action which is why the firing pin strikes on the back of the cylinder show the gun has been subject to "throw-by". This happens when people do fast dry-firing in double-action. You just don't see it in center-fire guns usually because of the larger chambers and the firing pin usually falls within the chamber instead of on the cylinder.

If you hadn't bought this gun yet my advice would be to walk away from it! There are many, many K-22s that haven't been so badly abused!

Identifying S&W .22 revolvers is easy as long as the gun is .22 Long Rifle. There really are basically only two, The K-22 Masterpiece on the medium K-Frame, and the .22-32 on the I-J small frame, or later the J-frame.


Yeah the cylinder is beat up, but the rest of the gun is in great shape, and with the filed cylinder, makes me wonder if the cylinder is from another gun.

I’m going to shoot it first, and if it shoots good, well…$250 doesn’t sound too bad.


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I managed to get into the barn with a full cylinder and I shot 3 DA, and 3 SA. All 6 appear to be struck in the correct spot, and probably just as important, the same spot.

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A good history thread on your gun: The K-22 Masterpiece (Model 17): a brief history

I think I see a screw on the trigger guard so it so it dates from the fifties, if it were my gun I'd be watching gunbroker for "S&W parts kit" for the right version and replace what's damaged. I'd also be sure to do a proper FFL transfer on it to prove when it came to your possession.
 
Here is my explanation as to how the dimpling happens in most cases. It is usually not a timing issue but instead is the result of loading the gun with one or more rounds not fully seated, the first sign of this is drag as cylinder is closed. Loaded like this it is possible to to cock the gun with force and push the hand right past the ratchet, pulling the trigger at this point will allow hammer to hit wherever the cylinder stopped. I had this problem with the very first 17 I bought new in 79-80. I never pulled the trigger but clearly remember realizing I had forced the action. The gun was very hard to load and unload. Depending on how well the hand fits the window it can be very easy to do.
 

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