Need Info on a Mauser Model 98

[MrTrolleyguy]

Weekly visit to the lgs had me looking at an 8mm Mauser. Can anyone give me any info at one on this rifle.

 

[Camster]

Five seconds of net research says it's a fairly scarce version made by Erma.

 

[fkienast]

ax is listed as the code for Feinmechanische Werke GmbH, Erfurt (ERMA)
Another
1941 production on the receiver.
A couple of the serial numbers match, other than that it's hard to tell.

 

[OFT II]

Good looking K98. About all that I can add is that the band at the front of the upper handguard holding the sling is on backwards. How's the bore?

 

[Bat99]

As others have said, it's hard to tell using pictures, but may be reasonably nice.
I will say this, 8mm ammo is somewhat hard to find. If you reload, you can get the components, but you may have to search at that. I found some Privi-Partisan for mine from SGAmmo and bought 160 rounds while I could get it. For my needs, that will hold me for a while. Try to stay away from the corrosive stuff, it's just not worth it. I can get about 1 MOA at 50 yards. The gun might be better than that, the rest is probably me.

 

[gdnagle]

K98 last one I got was about $300 for non matching non RC. Just about ever part was serialized. Even mostly matching number rifles had mismatched bolts due to when they were surrendered the bolt was removed and thrown in one pile and rifle in another. Doesn't look to be a RC. A GI bring back would have a better chance of being matching and no import marks. Ammo is out there if you look for it including mil surplus which is corrosive. Bore will most likely be dark from corrosive ammo.

http://www.ycgg.org/pdfpages/ww2/erma.pdf

 

[flundertaker]

The front site hood is missing, sling is from the other team. Check the bore, it it looks good, go for it. I love my k98. Ammo is fairly plentiful. Dont be afraid of the corrosive stuff. Its not a gas gun, just run some windex down the chamber / bore after you're done shooting to neuralize the salts and clean as normal. Not a big deal. Mine loves Turkish 7.92mm. Very hot and very accurate for almost 75 year old. I am glad I still have crates of it stacked up, just in case I ever pick up a MG42

 

[MrTrolleyguy]

Five seconds of net research says it's a fairly scarce version made by Erma.

Five seconds if you know where and what to look for. I don't own a single rifle. Were this a revolver or semi-automatic I would not be asking. We all have to start some where.

Following your lead I am researching Erma manufactured Model 98 right now and am viewing images.BTW all the numbers we found on the gun matched. That doesn't mean we found all that are on the gun. We did not examine the bolt carefully.

Joe

 

[Camster]

Five seconds if you know where and what to look for. I don't own a single rifle. Were this a revolver or semi-automatic I would not be asking. We all have to start some where.

Following your lead I am researching Erma manufactured Model 98 right now and am viewing images.BTW all the numbers we found on the gun matched. That doesn't mean we found all that are on the gun. We did not examine the bolt carefully.

Joe

I did a yahoo search for "ax Mauser marking" .Read a few results.Nothing fancier than that.I'm not a Mauser expert.

 

[Arik]

As others have said, it's hard to tell using pictures, but may be reasonably nice.
I will say this, 8mm ammo is somewhat hard to find. If you reload, you can get the components, but you may have to search at that. I found some Privi-Partisan for mine from SGAmmo and bought 160 rounds while I could get it. For my needs, that will hold me for a while. Try to stay away from the corrosive stuff, it's just not worth it. I can get about 1 MOA at 50 yards. The gun might be better than that, the rest is probably me.

8mm is all over the place.

Aim Surplus has them. Hot Shot for $11 and PPU for $14.50

Wiedners has Romanian and Yugo

J & G sales has Romanian

And our local gun shows have Romanian, Hungarian, Turk, Yugo surplus and PPU

 

[k22fan]

Mr. Trolly Guy,

I'll make a few comments based on your statement:

I don't own a single rifle. [...] We all have to start some where.

I have owned and reloaded for a lot of surplus bolt actions. I sporterized a few, hunted with a few, and shot targets with a ton of them, but I have little interest in collector details like stamps.

First, if the bolt number does not match insist on a head space check by a gunsmith or assume it has excess head space and is unsafe with factory ammo. With the gauges in hand a head space check takes only a few minutes.

Assuming you reload, it is very easy to convert inexpensive surplus .30-06, scrounged up .270 Win. or other handy brass to 8x57 mm. While you're at it you can set the case shoulder to fit what ever length chamber your rifle and bolt combination have. That can make excess head space moot so long as you label the reloads specifically for use in one rifle. Even so, a rifle with excess head space should be priced accordingly.

Speaking of value, look closely at your close up of the receiver ring.

The finish appears to be flaking off. 1941 Mausers were blued. Bluing does not flake off. Neither does military parkerizing. Was this action painted to cover up pits and patina like those that show best in your close up of the nose cap?

Also, since I recall you no longer have 19 year old eye balls, whether you want to struggle with Mauser's tiny sights on what may be your first rifle is an issue. Remember, this is a 300 yard rifle, not a pistol. Without ideal light and lots of time they are difficult to fire accurately with. I used to buy Mausers very inexpensively then drill and tap their receivers and notch their stocks for a Williams FP98, Lyman SME or Redfield peep. Collector value makes that questionable today.

In short, this Mauser may not be your best choice for a first rifle.

 

[LVSteve]

The front site hood is missing, sling is from the other team. Check the bore, it it looks good, go for it. I love my k98. Ammo is fairly plentiful. Dont be afraid of the corrosive stuff. Its not a gas gun, just run some windex down the chamber / bore after you're done shooting to neuralize the salts and clean as normal. Not a big deal. Mine loves Turkish 7.92mm. Very hot and very accurate for almost 75 year old. I am glad I still have crates of it stacked up, just in case I ever pick up a MG42

I'd think twice about shooting Turk from ANY semi or full auto. Hot and wrong burn rate.

 

[sheepdawg]

Might be the picture but the edges on the bolt cutout on the stock look rounded, a red flag, might mean the stock has been sanded, edges should be fairly sharp. Another red flag on the stock is the lack of waffenmarks behind the bolt take down disk on the right side.

That's called a red glue laminate stock, the most common one found on a K98k. About 93,000 1941 AX marked were manufactured which by K98k numbers is fairly scarce.

I like some of what I see and with a desirable date and manufacturer the question of the moment has to be ......... HOW MUCH?

 

[MrTrolleyguy]

What might be a fair price ?

 

[sheepdawg]

Collecting German Mausers is right up there with nuclear physics and brain surgery. It takes a ton of study to play German Mauser collector. That's why I collect Swedish Mausers, far more simple. Really many more really good pictures of certain marks and numbers are needed to give you a definite value. A legit all matching 1941 AX K98k is probably in the $3K plus range where as just a few wrong numbers or stamps or lack there of could make it a $400 K98k.

First things first, go see if the bolt matches. Does the buttplate match. If the buttplate matches the stock probably does. How about the bore, nice and bright or sewer pipe?

 

[flundertaker]

Mausers was an addiction I overcame and now just dabble in. Love my k98 and FR8. A great source is Backbone of the Weirmach. It has a few technical errors in it but it's The Catalog for k98 and German mausers in general.
No worries I can't see dropping ~$40k for a MG34 or MG42, and a semi is like sex with your sister.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[Redcoat3340]

"In short, this Mauser may not be your best choice for a first rifle."

Good advice there. I'm selling off most of my Mausers (keeping my 1916 Danzig, 88 Commission rifle, and VZ 24) 'cause of aging eyes and find myself shooting my Swedish Mauser and Swiss 1911 and K 31 a lot these days.

If I were going to buy a first milsurp rifle, it would be either a Swiss K 31 or Swede. Both are fantastic accurate, the Swiss has one of the best triggers ever and you can mount a scope on the K 31 without drilling and tapping. Swedes are as well made, or better made in my opinion, than the German Mausers, shoot better, and don't have any Nazi stampings (I refuse to pay a premium for a Nazi stamped weapon, and really prefer not to deal with any of such-marked artifacts. But that's just me.)

Prices for the Swiss and Swedes are still quite reasonable; there's a ton of 'em you can get over the intewebs, and if you have an 03 FFL ($30 and a month's wait) you don't need to go through an 01 FFL and pay additional fees. Ammo for the Swiss runs about $35 for a 60 round GP 11 battle pack, and 6.55 Swede all over the place and still reasonable.

If for some reason you want a Mauser, try looking at the Turkish variety. More reasonably priced, good quality, and the same tiny sights.

good luck.

 

[flundertaker]

I love the eternal optimism of the Yugos with the 2000 yard or meter rear ladder sight.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[alwslate]

It is a 98K, the standard WW2 Mauser used by Germany, millions were
made. The ax code is for Feinmechanische Werke, Erfurt. Later codes
for the same manufacturer were S/27G, S/27 and 27. It looks original
and unaltered. The sling is not original and the band is reversed. As
the Nazi markings are intact it is likely a vet bring back rather than a
recent import. If all numbers match it would be worth a pretty good
price. Exactly how much is very hard to say, probably at least $1200.
If the bore is decent it would be a good shooter. Even if the bolt
doesn't match it would be worth at least $500 in today's market.
German made 98s will rarely have headspace problems with unmatching
bolts. Matching or not it would be a crime to alter it in any way.
In my opinion it would be a great milsurp to own and I would love to
have it myself. If the bore is nice I would say shoot it with non
corrosive ammo and handloads and enjoy it as is.

 

[k22fan]

I have also enjoyed a 29" Swedish 1896 and quite a few older Schmidt Rubins but I haven't done anything with a K 31 yet.

As a fellow Washingtonian I wanted to comment on this.

[...] if you have an 03 FFL ($30 and a month's wait) you don't need to go through an 01 FFL and pay additional fees. [...]

I-594 neutered collector FFLs by specifying transactions go through the retailer's version of an FFL.

Which portions of I-594 won't survive court challenges and which will be enforced is a good question. Komo radio is reporting that the Lewis County prosecutor says he will not prosecute most types of non-sale transfers made in violation of I-594. Lewis County is famously Republican. My prediction is that after guidelines are written for their police King County will aggressively enforce every line in I-594. The initiative is their baby.